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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 7
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Advice on bringing an '85 Carrera back from 3 years sitting
I've got a good friend who has a 1985 911 that has been sitting in a garage in Redondo Beach for the past 3 years -- older owner who has been hospitalized and is in no shape to drive, and his wife hasn't driven the car for whatever reason. I am going to attempt to get the car back on the streets for the owner's wife and daughter-- and document the entire process as a special feature for my website --www.dailyturismo.com.
I've got a list of things to do, 1 Drain the gas tank 1.1 Replace fuel filter, blow old gas out with compressed air (per DRACO) 1.2 Inspect fuel tank strainer and float action (per SteamD) 1.3 Remove idle control valve, carb cleaner till clear, then silicone spray lube (per DRACO) 2 Change the oil 3 Give it a bath (it has been stored in an underground garage), 4 Clean interior 5 Charge battery 6 Check tires, brakes, brake fluid, electrics. 7 Crank it with ignition disconnected to make sure it builds fuel/oil pressure. 8 Fire it up I haven't seen the car in person yet, but will take some pics when I do. I'm fairly knowledgeable about cars in general (wrenched on various cars for years, am a mechanical engineer with decades of automotive development experience) but I'm wondering if someone out in cyberspace has direct experience and advice with bringing 911s back from a short slumber. I am doing this for the fun, and the only thing I am getting out of this is the experience of getting this old beauty back on the road and maybe a test drive or two around the twisty roads of Palos Verdes...we'll see. Advice/experience/tips appreciated. Thanks, Vince Last edited by vinbar; 05-02-2016 at 07:41 AM.. Reason: Added suggestions per advice |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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I would also change the Fuel Filter and blow out as much of the old gas out of the fuel lines with an air compressor.
Remove the Idle Control Valve and use carb cleaner until it comes out clear then spray a dab of silicon based lube. Check the chassis ground near gear box is nice, in the engine bay on intake manifold driver side and clean/polish for a solid ground Keep a DME relay handy. Prior to all this hand crank the engine after oil change. Then Enjoy :-D
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,370
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I would just buy a new battery.
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: kcmo
Posts: 1,069
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I'd just try to buy the car.
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Vinbar,
Would be great to see some photos
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1984 3.2 cab india red 1970 1192 Volkswagen Beetle |
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Slippery Slope Expert
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While tank is drained, remove and inspect fuel tank strainer; clean as required. If lots of crud on it (probably won't be since sitting time hasn't been excessive) remove and inspect fuel level sender for float movement.
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 7
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DRACO -- Thanks for the tip, I'll add a new fuel filter to my list.
Zedsn -- I'll probably end up doing that, but I figured it might be salvageable, I have a fancy-pants batt charger that has brought some dead batts to life in the past. sixbanger -- I don't think I can afford it!! Liam O -- I'll be sure to post some follow up pics when I see the car in person. Steam Driver -- Another good thing to add to the list. |
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When I first started my car after sitting 3 yrs also , I first syphoned the old, stale gas right out the fuel sender opening, tank was clean inside, so just put in a couple of gallons fresh premium, a new 48 size battery, saw it had oil at the end of the dip stick and asked the guy to crank it for a few seconds. Then on the second start it just fired right up no smoke, good oil p, THEN THE GAS JUST POURED OUT a major fuel leak from a hose in the engine( fuel return hose under the idle control valve). Thankfully nothing, but it was scary.
Have a big fire extinguisher right there.
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87 911 coupe, GP white, cashmere/black 64 Alfa Romeo Giulia TI - the violin 89 Peugeot 505 Turbowagon-other Pcar 67 912 coupe, white, sold 04 Audi Allroad 2.7T |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: NYC metro area
Posts: 55
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If you find the car has idle and / or stalling problems, other than the ICV...
1. Check the air gap at the crank sensor (must be .8mm) 2. Make sure you have the CHT replaced w/ the two wire unit 3. Check the air meter 4. check the DME
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'84 Targa: Duel output muffler, cat bypass, performance chip, cup airbox, P-Short throw, Euro H4s, Bilstein HDs, lowered torsion bars, strut tower brace, t-tie rod ends, etc. |
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Costa Mesa Ca
Posts: 57
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I bought one in Redondo Beach that sat for 4 years, the brake calipers had froze from sitting so check that also, it fired right up but after a month there were a few oil leaks from seals that had dried up that needed to be replaced so be ready for that possibility. Good Luck
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I would also check AC lines for splitting -- chances are there's not much stuff in the system but my maintained 85 had splits in the hoses that may have been trouble had I done a full recharge and run the AC
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Perhaps also consider:
-changing spark plugs -replacing spark plug wires (get some red ones just to be cool, I went with boring black and regret it daily) -replacing distributor cap and distributor rotor -replacing valve cover gaskets; -bleed and flush brake fluid (not just "check it", that fluid is too old); -drain and fill transmission gear oil; -replacing alternator and a/c belts All told that would hopefully cost you less than $300 and would be money well spent to gain a true-up baseline for future performance. Unless of course, you have prior service records or confidence in the maintenance performed/these items prior to going into storage and feel such expense isn't necessary. Good luck and PLS POST PICS, WE LOVE OUR "PORSCHE PORN" out here in cyberspace ;-)
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Frank 1989 911 Carrera Targa 3.2L, all stock 78k miles (as of Dec 2023) "The Machine" |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: behind the redwood curtain, (humboldt county) california
Posts: 1,433
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No load untill you get oil pressure.
IMHO most of the engine wear occurs in the first minute or so of operation.
to mitigate this I have always left the plugs out and pulled the ignition fuse on rebuilds, spun the engine over with no compression or power load, until oil pressure shows up on the gauge - the filter has probably drained back all of the oil and it will take a few spooky moments with no oil pressure, waiting for the needle to rise. Since the filter is probably dry anyway, this is a god time to replace it and the oil, before your go with the restart. Being a cautious guy, I would feel better with a more robust filter with a higher bypass pressure. IIRC, Baldwin has a 20 psi bypass pressure and everyone else has a 10-15 psi bypass - more filtration has just got to be better for an engine that has sat for years. fingers crossed, chris |
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