early turbos just used a long rubber hose. the later ones went to the pipe. it's anchored at the manifold so it doesn't move. the hose gets hard from the heat so it develops a poor seal at the engine end, or it can get porous and sweat. or both.

I just pulled off that breather hose. It is soaked like everything else. I have a length of radiator hose that is 1", this breather hose is the same size. When I put either of them on the tube they are too big, snug but not tight. What size should this hose be? I am sure that it is part if not all of the problem. Can I use red gasket sealer on the tubes before sliding on the new hose?

I also found out why I have hard cold starts. The 7th injector electrical connection is drowning in oil. I popped off the connector and oil oozed out! What a freakin' mess.

Another question. The oil sending unit has a brass washer on the bottom of the banjo fitting. There is no washer between the sending unit and the top of the banjo fitting. Should there be one?

Oil was caked on the back side of the engine oil cooler. When I removed the small plastic air duct that covers it there was a pool of oil running there too. Got it all cleaned up as well. That explains all the filth atop the passenger's bank heat exchanger.

Do not use radiator hose. The oil will break it down. Use something rated for gas, PCV or other.

There should be a small crush washer under the idiot light switch.

Did you pull the oil thermostat yet and have a look at the o-ring?

BTW the oil line is Metric. I actually buy it through Wurth and even Porsche by the foot.

Wasn't planning to use radiator hose, just had that size handy and compared it to the existing hose in size. Figured the P-hose was metric and was surprized that they both appeared to be the same ID.
Thanks for the info.

My breather hose is 25mm i.d. which is essentially 1in. I think they're all that size. Surely a good clamp should prevent blow-by. There are some different types of clamps that may be more effective.