front bilstein retaining pin

qlander · 02-15-2006, 04:56 PM

I was able to change the rear shocks in my 930 turbo without much trouble (easily said after I finished, right?).

I began the front change by trying to hammer out the bottom retaining pin with a roll pin punch. The pin quickly started to give and I thought I had it licked but at about 1/3 inch inch, it stopped moving. no matter how hard I hammer, it ain't budging. It looks like I'll need another approach.

I read in Wayne's book about drilling it out. Two questions

1. Is there a problem with metal shavings remaining in the strut?
2. What kind of drill bit functions best for this?

Thanks guys.

Q.

Jason Porter · 02-15-2006, 05:01 PM

Did you try spraying it with PB and hammering it back and forth a little. It should come right out at that point. BTW - How big is your hammer?

qlander · 02-15-2006, 05:04 PM

20 oz. hammer. Dumb question, What is PB?

Q.

Jason Porter · 02-15-2006, 05:09 PM

Only dumb question is the one not asked. PB Blast, it's a penetrating oil spray, although you could use WD-40, too. I use a 3lb Estwing and tap with necessary force

It usually doesn't take much...

qlander · 02-15-2006, 05:10 PM

Thanks.

Q.

Jason Porter · 02-15-2006, 05:16 PM

No problem.

mark '87 930 · mark '87 930's Garage

i am considering changing my ball joints and since I'm there, maybe change the front shocks as well. Do your struts have an insert which you are simply changing, or do you have to do the entire strut assembly for the big bucks? i have an 87 930 and really looking to doing this.

the ball joint tool isn't cheap though.

Jason Porter · 02-15-2006, 06:33 PM

Inserts... You should be able to loosen the ball joint with a hammer and punch, backing it out slowly, but then again, I'd get the tool if I were you. Just make sure it's on perfectly straight, and you've got a good grip on it, or you may do more harm than good...

qcwang · 02-15-2006, 07:09 PM

Here is my dumb question.

Is a roll pin punch flat tipped or slightly pointed?

Did mine 1 1/2 yrs ago and if remember right I ended up using a flat tipped 1/4" punch.

The other punch I used was slightly pointed and as I hammered it started going into the roll pin and expanding it.

Jason Porter · 02-15-2006, 07:35 PM

I would use a flat point, but then again, you should be able to use either. It's not going to expand that much in a press fit area like that...

randywebb · 02-15-2006, 08:13 PM

pointed punch is more likely to wind up inside the roll pin - expand it so it won't move and break off...

find that fun thread where a guy had that happen recently

so ... flat

ianc · 02-15-2006, 10:38 PM

The roll pin is pointed on the end. Don't drill it; it's extremely hard and will give you no end of trouble. Optimally, find a punch just the size of the bore in the strut and use that. Follow Jason's advice and hammer it in a little, then out a little more, soaking it all the time with penetrating oil. Gripping the protruding end with vice grips might contract it a hair and make it a little easier, or you can try beating on the vice grips (with a rubber mallet of course). Good luck,

ianc

vash · vash's Garage

my money is on the wrong punch...

the "necked down" section on the punch needs to be long enough to go the full length. i once tried it, and didnt realize the shoulders of the punch was butting up against the shock body,,DOH! i took a new pin to the hardware store and matched up the diameters closely (with a nice flat point). it took two hits. in my experience, once you get the pin moving, the battle is won.

qlander · 02-17-2006, 01:16 PM

I had the same problem. The punch butted up against the strut. Once I went to a narrower punch, The pin came out.

Now I'm having a hard time hammering the new pin in. Boy!! talk about stubborn, even to get it started. I'm half way in and pounding hard. I hope I don't bend it.

Q.

Jason Porter · 02-17-2006, 07:15 PM

Finished yet?