Cheep way to more HP in early 911T

[Svensson911T]

I’m looking for an cheep way to get 10-40 HP more, out of my 2.0 911T from 1969. Any suggestions? What about reliability? And is it wise to do on a daylily driver

[Bobboloo]

I don't think there is really a cheap way to add horsepower to that motor. Most cheap horsepower comes from intake or exhaust improvements. The intake and exhuast on your car are capable of much more power when placed on a bigger motors so no big gains there.

You could get a couple horses maybe with a sport muffler but more than likely it would only show on a dyno at redline and it might come at a cost to driveability. You could find yourself with some deadspots in the RPM range. In short the car won't feel faster and it will be noisier.

This means making any real gains will have to come from the bottom end and that's expensive.

Basically the cheapest way to get more horsepower for your car is to buy a bigger motor and swap it. Modifying your motor will cost substantially more and produce less than a swap.

Sometimes you can find decent 2.4 or 2.7s for $2500 or less. A decent 3.0 will usually cost $3000 and up.

The cheapest way by far to go faster is not with horsepower. It's by lightening your car. Anything that isn't necessary can be removed.

One more thing you might want to consider. If your car is a nice original example in good condition you can sell it and buy a not so original car with a bigger motor. There are cars out there that have had their motors swapped for bigger ones and they are usually a bargain. I bought one of these cars, a 73' with an 87' Carrera motor, for roughly what you would pay for one with a stock 2.4. Possibly even less. I couldn't be happier.

[bkreigsr]

try a full service. new plugs, points, dizzy cap, condenser, plug wires, reset timing, tune carbs to spec, clean/renew air filter elements, fuel filter, new filter screen in the gas tank, fresh oil in motor and trans, and vacuum lines.
you are going to be amazed!
bill k

[KillerDynoSoar]

Or do what Colin Chapmans suggests and 'add' lightness. IE Strip that sucker out a bit.

Also I know this sounds silly but drive your car to the redline as it was supposed to be driven. A few Porsche guys don't do this and never realise the full potential of their car.

After reading some of the comments on here on how you drive your P car and trying it myself, its an amazing difference. I have had too much mechanical sympathy to do this before.. but thats how you drive them and they are amazing cars. I have a friend who has an acurate RS clone (getting fia papers for it) and he tried it and was astonished at the performance level.

[David E. Clark]

Originally posted by KillerDynoSoar
Or do what Colin Chapmans suggests and 'add' lightness.

That's the key. Check out this site for some tips.

[}{arlequin]

40hp would cost you $4-5k.... better to buy a whole sc or 3.2 motor

[bigchillcar]

no cheap hp..
ryan

[kenikh]

You might get 10 HP cheap, but 40 HP is going to cost you a new set of pistons and cylinders, plus head work and cams. If you go used, you might be able to get:

used 2.2 'E' or 'S' pistons and cylinders = ~$1000
headwork (chamfer, porting) = $125/head (you could reduce this by deleting porting)
used 'E' cams = ~$250

This could yield near 150 HP at the crank and a much better powerband. So if you are diligent and do the work yourself, you could get a really snotty little motor for around $1200 - $2000, plus the cost of cam tools (another $100 - $150).

Is that cheap? In Porsche dollars, yeah, it is.

[bigchillcar]

good advice, kenik..likely as economical as it's gonna get..in porsche $$$, that's coming out pretty.
ryan

[Early_S_Man]

You guys are forgetting about the 'Rallye' engines based on 'T' heads and 'S' cams and carburetion ... 150 hp DIN @ 2.0 liters ... use the 2.2 'S' p & c set suggested by kenikh and 'S' cams gets you at least 160 hp DIN ...

[kenikh]

Originally posted by Early_S_Man
You guys are forgetting about the 'Rallye' engines based on 'T' heads and 'S' cams and carburetion ... 150 hp DIN @ 2.0 liters ... use the 2.2 'S' p & c set suggested by kenikh and 'S' cams gets you at least 160 hp DIN ...

I had indeed forgotten about that motor. Good call on keeping the T heads stock. Used 'S' cams are more expensive than 'E' though.

I wonder, could 2 liter 'S' pistons be used reliably in the iron 'T' cylinders? I think so. This setup would be about $500 for the pistons and another $350 - $400 for used 'S' cams. This should still result in a DIN 40HP gain and much more fun powerband. Less than a grand in parts? Now THAT is cheap.

[FrayAdjacent911]

If your 69T is still using the stock ignition, replace it with an MSD unit. Also replace the cap, rotor, wires, coil and plugs with something that works better with the MSD. You could tweak a little more HP out of your engine that way. It should start and idle better, at least.

[mjshira]

as others have said, drop lbs off the car.

[kenikh]

Originally posted by mjshira
as others have said, drop lbs off the car.

This advice comes from a guy who runs a 3.6?

[berettafan]

Aren't there differences in the crankshafts of T's vs. E & S?

I seem to recall something about balancing or such.

Erik

(sorry if this is a dumb Q; just a newb trying to keep everything straight in his head)

[kenikh]

Good point. Yes, the 'S' and 'E' have counterweighted cranks, the 'T' does not making an unmodified 'T' crank less reliable for long term high RPM usage. This is why I was advocating the 'E' cams as you don't have to keep the revs up as high to keep it in the powerband. The rally car used the 'T' crank (with 'S' cams) which is lighter and thus spools up faster, but it was a race car that had regular tear downs between races.