need engien education!!

[freezing14]

Ok i have the engine apart,, the oil was white,, not a good sign but all the parts are moving freely once the cylinders are off,, will do bottom end anyway,

, here is where i need education,, i am looking to keep the cost down,, so i am looking for a set of used piston and cylinder, my pistons are ok but will buy whatever makes sense,,

as i shop around for old 911 engine gear, i have seen that they have T/ E / S version,, what is the difference??, is it just the cam, what was the -6 original came with
????, i have seen piston set for sale but they the valve pocket seems deeper,, is it just my eyes or what

does the carb need to be modified??

thanks

[dweymer]

you have a 914 not a 911 right? Four cylinder or 6?
You should get the "how to rebuild and modify porsche 911 engines" by Wayne(available on PP) it has all that kind of info and is a good resource. Try to post engine questions in the





Yep you guessed it "engine rebuilding forum"

[freezing14]

the car is in deed a 914-6 original,, but very little info about the -6 , thats why i am here,, i will post in the engine rebuilding forum,, thanks

[Joe Bob]

The 914/6 is a detuned 2.0 "T".....about 100 HP.

If you are going to do a top end....consider doing it to 2.2 T specs which requires a few mods and replacement of pistons AND cylinders.


If you are looking to keep the /6 for awhile and would like a quality rebuild....contct LN Navarro and get his Nickasil p/c kit.


http://www.lnengineering.com/

He's a good guy.

[Grady Clay]

You have a ’72 914-6 original? If so, it is a VERY rare example. Please post the VIN, engine S/N and Type number and the transmission S/N and Type number. If you don’t want to post them you can e-mail me or just put “xxx” for the last two or three digits of the VIN and S/Ns. For us to know those numbers will help greatly in offering you the proper advice.

If you have a VIN of the form 914243xxxx, STOP right now and don't do anything more.
Another quick measurement – what is the diameter of the pistons?

EDIT OK, I see you have 9140430696. That is the 696th (out of about 2200) 1970 914-6s. The engine S/N and Type number are on top of the engine, between the breather plate and the oil pressure switch. The transmission numbers are on the bottom-center rib under the differential.

Best,
Grady
gradyclay@hotmail.com

[freezing14]

ok I am all up to redo to full T spec,, how do you do it,, what are the parts that are different, just the P/C or the cam too,, what if i put a E spec piston and cylinders,, what else do i need to do???

[freezing14]

the new 6 is a 70

[Early_S_Man]

The 'S' pistons do, indeed, have deeper valve pockets in the pistons to clear the much higher lift of the wilder 'S' cams ... and the 'S' pistons are forged vs cast for 'T' and 'E' pistons. Also, the 'E' and 'S' cylinders are Biral -- aluminum fins cast around an iron liner.

However, when describing 'good used' piston/cylinder sets, some people are a bit vague dealing with the very, very tight specifications for acceptable piston-to-cylinder clearances ... and, in fact, sell p/c sets that are worn out by definition!

If you can't find an 'S' set within specs ... my suggestion is to get a set of 85.0 mm [1.0 mm overbore for 2.2 or 2.4 84.0 mm cylinders] JE pistons with full clearance pockets and 9.5:1 compression ratio, and get your cylinders bored to fit.

[Grady Clay]

The ’70-’71 Type 901/36/38 914-6 engines are almost identical to a ’69 901/03 911T engine. There are two versions; the 901/38 is USA exhaust emissions control and 901/36 is RoW, identical performance specs.

The specs for 901/36 and 901/38 are:

For 1971 the engine number range for 901/36 – 6410001 to 6413000 and for 901/38 – 6414001 to 6417000. I assume the number system is similar for ’70. Of course they only built about 270 ’71 models.
1991 cc (80x66)
8.6:1 Compression Ratio (CR)
125 SAE HP (110 DIN HP) at 5800 rpm
131 ft-lbs (16.0 mkp) at 4200
The type 914/01 transmission was geared A-GA-O-V-ZA, 7:31 (it also could have had a Sportomatic 914/05). The 1971 5-speed Transmission S/N range is 7510001 to 7519999. Again I assume it is similar for ’70.
REF: 914-6 Owner’s Manual 4621.23 and “Technical Information, 09/20-23/70.

There is also listed a 901/25 1991 cc, 230 hp for “Rallye-cars” per the Factory publication. BA reports 220 hp for the same engine (p. 108, 2nd Ed.).

I’ll encourage you to keep that original absolutely original configuration and save every part you replace.

You only get one shot at repairing the chassis correctly. It can be better than new (important) and still appear original. On your rotisserie, you should make adjustable jigs between the two door hinges and the latch mounting and between the windshield frame top and role bar. Many parts cross over from a ’70 914-4 and a ’70 911. There are many updates possible but I encourage you to not do anything that can’t be easily put back to original.

If you want some more power as a driver, get a 2.2, 2.4 or more. I have a 2.8S MFI with a type 911 LSD, geared AEINS with ’72-> linkage in mine and the original engine, trans & linkage resting quietly. If you are careful, you can use up to 2.8L with the 914/901/911 transmission. Larger engines need a 915, 930 or G50/G64/G86-> transmissions.

If you want to build a hotrod, start with a good 914-4 chassis.

A friend and I are looking into building a “914-6” on a Boxter/Cayman chassis or at least applying that technology and those parts to a 914. How abut an 1800# 3.8Cup built on a Cayman platform that looks like a 914? HeHe

Best,
Grady

[DW SD]

Freezing -
Cool project!
I've been around this board a little while and wanted you to know that:
You'd have a hard time finding advice in the Porsche world than Grady Clay and Warren (early S Man)! Heed their advice, it is consistently outstanding. Look for their posts in the archives, as well. There is a treasure trove of information already buried within. Follow their advice and you won't go wrong.

Sounds to me like you have a rare car, which would be a shame to bugger up, by going hot rod style....

Doug