Boge shock question

[jcpyor]

Please help. I was abput to replace what I am sure are Boge front shocks with Bilsteins (see the green in the pic) Can anyone tell me how to get that four place nut off of the top of the Boge strut?

[MOMO3.2]

I think that nut is called the strut cartridge cap. I also believe that a new one is supplied with the new Bilstein strut insert.

I completed the same job a few months ago and I honestly don't remember having any problem removing the cap. I think I just used some vice grips and applied minimal pressure to the cap and it unscrewed quite easily. I just gripped the strut in my hamd to counteract the unscrewing force.

Search other threads about installing Bilsteins. I think there were some good pointers regarding this job. Overall, it was very easy and your new struts should really make a nice difference.

Good luck.

Mike

[Oh Haha]

Channel-Locks.........BIG Channel Locks work great. Don't worry so much about beating it up as you should have received new ones with the Bilsteins. I suqirted some PB Blaster around the threads a few days before removing just for extra help.

[Icemaster]

I used a pipe wrench. Any of the above mentioned will work as well if you dont have a pipe wrench, and as long as you've got something large enough. As any good woman will tell you, the right size tool makes all the difference.

One pointer, before you remove the insert, make sure you put a piece of wire around the strut housing and tie it off to the brake line RETAINER, not the nice pretty stainless lines in your pic.

[swa911]

Yes, big channel locks. You know you will have to remove the strut from the car to get all the oil out of it. Unless you have some sort of siphon pump.

[jcpyor]

Yes, I know about removing the oil, it was the nut on top that threw me. I do NOT want to screw up the new lines, as I have now replace ALL lines on the brake system. Thanx for the help

[Zeke]

Originally posted by swa911
Yes, big channel locks. You know you will have to remove the strut from the car to get all the oil out of it. Unless you have some sort of siphon pump.

It's not good to leave some oil in the strut with Bilsteins?

[swa911]

Why would you want to leave that nasty oil in there?

[masraum]

Originally posted by swa911
Why would you want to leave that nasty oil in there?

Some people leave it in for cooling. I'm in the "take it all out" camp myself.

[Zeke]

Well, yes, oil or antifreeze will conduct heat generated by the shock to the outside. I usually have some oil in there.

[swa911]

Really? I had never thought of that. I guess it wouldn't hurt anything. All I know is that crap was nasty and it ruined a T-shirt and several of my shop towels because I didn't know it was in there when I did mine.

[HarryD]

Originally posted by swa911
Yes, big channel locks. You know you will have to remove the strut from the car to get all the oil out of it. Unless you have some sort of siphon pump.

Actually with a bit of patience and some towels, you can swab the oil out of the strut without removing the strut from the car.

----------------------------------------

jcpyor-I noticed in your picture, you have the retaining ring still on top of the Bilstein Strut Dust cover, you will need to discard that when you intall the struts, it is only ther for shipping.

While you have the strut lowered, it is a good time to take a close look at your from A-Arm Bushings to see if they need replacement. My local expert told me that you look at the "lip" for any radial cracks forming. If they are, it is time to replace the bushings.

[shbop]

FWIW I recently replaced the inserts in my Boge struts with Bilsteins. I had to call them about a collar that was taped to the bottom of the new units. I asked about the oil--the guy I spoke to said they don't recomend it.

[defcon65]

Bilstein will send you the locking ring tool if you call them and request it, I'm not sure why they don't just ship one with the inserts. A big pipe wrench also works OK, but they are supposed to be torqued to 95 ft/lbs and that will take some leverage. I had a helper steady the strut while I tightened. The Boge inserts I removed were factory and were installed with oil in the housing, FWIW. I poured in a little ATF when I swapped mine, but others may not agree with this.

[Wil Ferch]

As you try to remove the cartridge strut cap....

You might also want to "brace" the steering arm attached to the strut...like a piece of stout wood placed between the arm and a strong, folded metal edge of the inner fender/undercarriage....

- Wil

[jcpyor]

Okay, now how do I tighten the new nut on the strut while the entire thing spins? Cant seem to find a place to attach anything to hold the strut with.

[Oh Haha]

If you mean the top nut on the strut, you need to hold the big a$$ washer while tightening the nut. I used my fan pulley wrench while my wife used the air gun on the nut. You could also use a pipe wrench but you WILL chew up the outside a bit.

[RickM]

Originally posted by masraum
Some people leave it in for cooling. I'm in the "take it all out" camp myself.

I could swear that someone stated in another thread that a Bilstein tech advised against filling with oil.


Add: A search reveals what Chris Benett had to say in a post by Defcon....

"When I talked to Bilstein they told me not to add oil to the strut housing (Bilstein inserts in Boge strut).
-Chris"

[Wil Ferch]

You might have to "partially assemble" the strut ( w/o top dust cap) ...and re-attach the steering tie-rod....so that there can be resistance to getting the top nut ( on the cartridge) tight.

then...

Take apart again...add top dust cover boot...reassemble as "final"...

- Wil

Edit---or take the whole shebajng out and work on a workbench

[Wil Ferch]

Or..this tech article Jason Burkett from Paragon Products ( a major Koni supplier) might be of interest-->

Front Shock Replacement (65-89)
Author: Skip


The 911, 914 and some 944’s featured a rebuildable front McPherson Strut. Instead of having to replace the entire strut unit, you will be able to merely replace the strut insert that is on the inside of the strut housing. You will know that your strut is rebuildable by looking in the area where the shiny piston rod goes into the lower strut housing. On rebuildable struts, a screw on cap (gland nut) is used to hold the insert into the lower strut housing. You will know the gland nut is removable because you will likely see a few threads sticking up on the cap. 1965-83 cars used a male threaded gland nut, and 84-89 cars used a female threaded gland nut.

Jack the front of the car and secure with jack stands. Remove both front wheels. Remove the top-mounting nut (inside the front hood, 22mm) and lower the shock out of the tower housing. If the shock shaft begins to spin before the 22mm nut loosens, you can hold the big washer under the nut with a pair of channel locks. This nut has a “tooth” that fits inside a groove on the shock shaft. Once you are holding this washer, you will be able to loosen and remove the 22mm nut. Some shock shafts will have a 8mm allen head end which can also be utilized to prevent the shock shaft from spinning. Once the nut is removed, reach in the wheel well and grab the upper dust cover that protects the shock shaft from dirt and grime. Pull down, this will extract the piston from the upper strut bearing. Carefully tilt the strut out past the fender lip and slide the dust cover off the shock shaft being careful to not put your brake line in too much of a bind. If you are removing a gas insert, you may need to compress the shock shaft a bit to enable you to tilt it past the fender lip. Once the dust cover is removed, pivot the shock back and push the shock shaft back up into the upper strut bearing and finger tighten the top 19mm nut. This will hold the assembly in position while we loosen the gland nut. I usually like to use a big pipe wrench or a large pair of channel locks (cheater pipe optional ;-). As you try to unscrew the gland nut the strut will want to turn. Use a small piece of 2x4 to brace the spindle to the inner fender well to keep it from turning. Now loosen the gland nut…. remember lefty loosey, righty tighty. Once the gland nut is loose, reach up and remove the 19mm nut on the top of the shock shaft. Once again, tilt the strut out past the fender lip (watch the brake line) and remove the gland nut and insert.

You are now ready to install your new inserts. Remove any rust or corrosion that may be present on the threaded portion of the strut tube. Some strut housings may be full of hydraulic oil. You can either remove this oil by using paper towels to “wick” it up, or you can reuse it as a “coolant” for your insert. Another popular coolant is anti-freeze. Either will work, but remember, it won’t take much liquid because the insert will displace most of the area in the strut tube. Koni recommends 50ml of fluid, but I usually just use the dipstick method and try to get the coolant to ride about 2/3 up the side of the insert. Once your coolant level is set, slide your new insert into the strut housing. Koni supplies new male thread gland nuts for the 65-83 cars. Place some Blue Loctite on the gland nut threads and finger tighten it down. 84-89 cars utilize a female threaded gland nut. When using this type of nut, Koni has supplied a special washer that sits on top of the insert prior to installing the gland nut. This washer centers the insert in the strut housing, a job that had been performed by the male type gland nut. Position the shock rod back up into the body and once again, finger tighten the 19mm nut. You may need to place a floor jack under the A Arm to assist in moving the shock shaft up into the upper strut bearing. Use your piece of 2x4 to block the spindle and really tighten the gland nut with your pipe wrench or channel locks…. I mean REALLY tighten it. Gland nuts have been known to back off so your muscles and the Loctite will insure this doesn’t happen. Once the gland nut is tight, remove the top 22mm nut and retract the shock rod from the piston. You will need to install 2 items on the shock piston prior to installing the dust cover. First is a small plastic washer. This washer prevents the bump rubber from pulling a vacuum on the strut housing when the shock goes into full compression. Probably would never happen, but that’s what it’s for. After the plastic washer, install the bump rubber. Koni’s standard bump rubber looks kind of like a tootsie roll. The curved portion will face down. Koni’s competition bump rubber is made out of a more advanced material and is correctly installed with the angled portion facing down. If the car has been lowered you can shorten the bump rubber to regain some shock travel but you ALWAYS want to run a bump rubber. Failure to do so will destroy your shocks. Now, install the dust cover on the shock shaft and slide the piston up into the upper strut bearing. Install the new top washer and nut. Once again, the shock shaft may turn as you attempt to tighten the top nut so have your channel locks handy. Never use the adjusting tab on Koni insert as your “holding” mechanism, it WILL break off.

You are now ready to reinstall the wheel/tire assembly, do the other side, and enjoy your new added level of performance! - Jason Burkett

Application: 911 65-73, 911 74-89, 914 all

Tools: 22mm socket, 8mm hex, Pipe Wrench, Large Channel Locks, floor jack, cheater pipe, 50ml anti-freeze

Credits: Jason Burkett