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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta
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need help removing oil line
Hello enthusiasts,
I am removing a leaky oil line this weekend. I am removing the line that is attached to the thermostat to the engine's main hard line that attaches to the bottom left side of the engine. This is the line that has about 10 inches of hose, then turns into a metal line going to the thermostat. Let me tell you what I have done in preperation for said event so far. I have thoroughly cleaned the thermostat so I can see the threaded area for where the line bolts onto. I have drenched that threaded area with pb penetrating oil. I have been soaking it in this oil for the past two days and give it a fresh drench every day. I was told by one person, that if I wanted to save the threads on my thermostat, I should take a dremel tool and cut straight through the bolt on the thermostat so it would weaken the bond with the line. Does anyone have any other advice on the best method to remove the line without destroying my thermostat threads? many thanks- john
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I have just finished this job.
I cut the nut, being careful not going to far. I then used a chisel and a hammer on it. It left the threads as good as they were.
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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The clean up and PB that you've done so far is a good start....I'd try a 36 mm wrench on the fitting just to see IF it might break the connection (you MIGHT just get lucky). If not, then I'd suggest a cut into the nut with a dremel just far enough to get a large chisel into the groove and give it a few good whacks with your favorite (large) hammer. If that doesn't get it started, then go ahead with the dremel groove and cut it almost to the threads and see if you can break the nut itself. The rule I choose to follow in this instance is to proceed from the least damaging to the most damaging tool/fix for the job.
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Marc Morrison 1964 356C coupe '89 911 coupe 2008 Honda Accord 2008 Ford Ranger |
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I used the PB Blaster and a little heat from a propane torch along with a 36 mm oil line wrench and a four foot breaker bar. It came off fairly easily.
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Location: PR,USA
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Ok You Guys
I'm Planing the same . I have the same leaky oil line. The other day I just try to loose the rubber connector from the metal tube and I coud't . This means that when replacing the rubber part one have to get a new set of nuts? I'm planing to take them out and take it to the hydraulic shop for the guy to put new hose rubber line. Ok by heating the joint's with a Torch will be enough to losen the connectors? Vic ![]() ![]() |
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Quote:
Thermostats are expensive and oil lines cheep...
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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Hey everyone, I finished the job yesterday morning. The job went off without a hitch. Since I had been soaking the threads in penetrating oil the past two days, the line came off without a problem at all. The only problem was getting to the line with a wrench(which I couldn't) so, I took the advice of another member and cut a bog notch into the bolt and pounded away on it with a chizel in the loosening direction until it broke loose. If that did not work, I was just going to cut the whole bolt off the thermostat by making a cut almost all the way through on either side of the bolt. All in all, the entire job took me 3 hours. That is including jacking the car and cleaning the garage floor when I was done
![]() To anyone who is going to do this job soon. I cannot stress the value of cleaning the threads around the thermostat housing and soaking the threads in penetrating oil for as long as possible. Doing that made the job so much easier. good luck, john
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