Rust Issue: 1972 911e

[tiwebber]

I posted a while back on a 1972 911e.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=267053&highlight=1972+911e

I was about to test drive and get a PPI but arranging it all took some time. I have a PPI and some pics from underneath the car. The car is being sold as a documented (and is documented) 48K in nearly original condition for 28k us. Lots, I know. The car looks fantastic inside and checks out well in the PPI and was a pleasure to drive and listen to.

The only new information I have it that the car has was appears to be decent compression at 150 (highest) and 140 (lowest) and then the remainder at 142-147. There are oil leaks - the main appears to be cylinder number 2 and the crankcase. They dont "appear" serious but the PPI guy suggests cleaning the engine, driving and getting it looked at again.

What I really want to ask folks about is the rust. There is one surface spot in the middle of the floor about 4"*4". If you scratch the material away a bit its clean.

There is surface rust in other places (see pics) but it does not appear to be serious (to those who commented when the car was up). Is this rust disturbing (at this price!) or can it be controlled (fixed even) relatively inexpensively?

Thanks in advance.

Here's the car:


Here's the rust pics (sorry, they are out of focus):

[klaucke]

A lot of that rust looks trivial-- "rot" is more of a concern than surface rust, which is normal and to be expected on a car that is 30+ years old.

[Bobboloo]

Piece of cake. The only chassis rust is the top one which can easily be wire brushed off, coat with POR 15 and then spray some underbody shutz over it. The other pictures are of parts that bolt on and can be removed and refinished with the paint of your choice. For longevity powder coating is the best.

That car looks fantastic!

P.S. The suspension parts that have surface rust will require you to re-align the car when they are R+R'd so it's a good idea to schedule there repainting at the same time suspension work is done. This will keep you from having to pay for alignments twice.

The steering rack cover, rear swaybar and tranny cradle can be done at any time since alignment won't be in the equation for them.

[Rich76_911s]

I don't know the values of early cars very well. My gut feeling is that 23K (us or canadian? ? ?) would be high for a car with rust. But I am not an expert on early car values by any measure. I would just guess that for that price you could find a better deal. Infact in the for sale section right now there is a r-gruppe 911 for 25K us that looks stunning, and probably in better shape. It'll easily cost 2K to get rusty parts replaced or fixed. Here is a link for the car I am refering too:
71 911T/RS clone

I have a habit of finding rusty 911's, my guess is that the harder you look the more rust you are going to find. Check closely for areas that don't look right. Sections that are smooth that should be rough ect ect. Here are some areas you should check closely:
1. The Jack input area
2. Check the wheel wells very carefully, if you can check the area around where the bumper shocks are attached to the car it would be an added bonus. (I don't know if long hoods had this issue like the later cars but I found real bad rust in the section on an SC)
3. Check under the pedal cluster.
4. Check the lower corners of the windshield closely
5. Check under the rear seats
6. Check all along the rocker panels
7. Look inside the rear wheel well up towards the door post.
8. Under the battery
10. Inside the light buckets
11. The rear tail-light housings also have a tendency to get rusty too.
There are probably other areas you should check closely.
Just click on my links below and see the rust that I have found, DON'T follow in my footsteps it is a miserable road to travel.

Make sure to put your emotions to the side. I bought a car before looking closely enough at the areas above because I was too emotional. Make sure it is what you want. If you want an original car with 48K miles are you going to want to drive frequently or keep it a low mileage example? Or are you already hunting for a 3.6L engine to drop in there? I kinda see low mileage cars as a burden sometimes because you always want to keep them original and low mileage. I like playing with my toys updating ect ect, and I wouldn't want to do it to a low mileage car. Rust is one of those things that just keeps spreading and you are always fighting it. I wish you the best of luck and keep us posted on your progress. Sorry for the long winded response.

Cheers
Rich

[Evans, Marv]

Good comments by Rich. Except the long noses don't have bumper shocks & the tail light housings are made of pot metal which corrodes away, but doesn't rust. The sheet metal in the fender area can though. In addition to checking under the front windshield seal, I would also check around the bottom of the rear windshield and remove the rear package tray cover & check under that for rust too. I think $28K US is high & $20K to $23K is more in the range - that is if the milleage is correct. The rust pictured is normal for that old of a car & easily fixed & the compression is fine. If your PPI guy knows what he is doing & didn't say anything major is wrong, it would be a very desirable car - to keep in original shape. A good original '72E is probably going to be work a bunch in the fairly near future.
Good luck.

[tiwebber]

If you want an original car with 48K miles are you going to want to drive frequently or keep it a low mileage example? Or are you already hunting for a 3.6L engine to drop in there?

I want a weekend driver to go out for Sunday drives with my son. I am sort of just getting into this gig so it might grow into a full blown hobby but for now just fun sunday drives. The only segway into more than sunday drives is that I would'nt mind getting driving lessons on a track for fun.

The reason for "this" car is I really like the look. I love the chrome and lines and the colour is growing on me. The added bonus is the car is 20miles away from me too. I am open to other e and s types for sure.

On the liability side is rust and I fully hear you on the warnings. That's why I am taking it slow and trying to think clearly (when clearly all I want to do it buy it now).