Help! Rear Ride Height

[ZOA NOM]

Originally posted by wcc
So I'm going to set it to 27.5 deg.

Didn't I say I set mine to 28 degrees and that I'm "just a hair" above Euro height?

I love it when a plan comes together.

[wcc]

Originally posted by ZOANAS
Didn't I say I set mine to 28 degrees and that I'm "just a hair" above Euro height?

I love it when a plan comes together.

Your 28deg is probably from horizontal? But since my car has a 3 deg nose down angle I have to take that into account. So from the horizontal I actually have 30.5 deg minus the 3 deg for the slope of the car and I end up with 27.5 deg. We're still within a couple deg though..

[Wil Ferch]

Let us all know how this turns out...

Most posters here who have used the angle calculator.....seem to say it works fairly well which pleases Thom and I.... but we can always "fine tune" the process a bit...

Also..it's very sensitive to accurate input data ( weight, etc)...don't forget "garbage in / garbage out".....

Good Luck !

- Wil

[wcc]

Ok, I have the spring plates at the "new" angle now. I centered the Right Height adjustment bolts and tightened down the lock bolt.

Then I mounted the spring plate to the trailing arm, but left the bolts loose. I put in the two eccentric bolts and left them loose. Here is my problem now. How do you turn those eccentric bolts with an allen wrench? I have the 12mm but it is just a normal one with a long side/90deg angle/short side. Do I need a different one or do I need to do something else to make them turn?

On the PS I forgot to mark the location of the eccentric bolts, but on the DS I marked the exact location of where they are supposed to be. So the PS is a shot in the dark where they go unfortunately.

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

[Oh Haha]

You mean the toe and camber adjusting bolts, right?
I would set the PS close to what the DS looks like for now. You will need to get it aligned anyway. It should be ok to drive to the alignment shop. I did a string check on my toe before driving it to the shop. I got it pretty close to zero toe.
I believe I modified a hex wrench to fit the bolts.

[wcc]

Yes, the camber and toe eccentric bolts.

I thought they would be ok until I get it to the shop too. Thanks for confirming that. I'll pick up a socket 12mm tomorrow cause I can put an extension and ratchet on it. Maybe I'll be able to turn those bolts with something like that to a closer position.

[ZOA NOM]

This is when the plates with grease between them really help. You can adjust the camber while it's on the ground. I cut a short length of the 12mm allen off and use it with a 12mm wrench for better leverage.

[wcc]

Zoanas, that's not a bad idea of cutting off the end of the wrench. I had to buy the 12mm allen for this project anyways. It is jacked up and in the air and I just want to get it close...

[JoeyJoeJoe]

Hi all,

With some help from this great forum nd (Wil Ferch), I just finished lowering my 85 911. I used the rennlist calculator for the spring plate angle and it went smoothly.

However, I now want to make a very small adjustment of about 1/3 inch lower on the passenger's side to balance the car when I'm in it. I don't want to have to rip it all apart again if I don't have to.

There are the 2 eccentric bolts in the middle of the spring plate. I know I can use these to raise or lower the rear end by a very small amount, but how?
Will it let me adjust the height by 1/3 inch or is this to much to expect?
What do I need to loosen off before adjusting?

Thanks for any help

[wcc]

When you re-indexed your torsion bar did you center the ride height eccentric bolt? If not you can only raise the car. So, yes you would have to re-index your bars again. If you centered that eccentric bolt then you can raise or lower the car about .5in either way like Wil said.

There are two bolts up by the torsion bar. One is a locking bolt loosen that and the other is the eccentric bolt. Loosen that one too. Then rotate it until you get the height you are after. You may end up doing it a few times to get it right where you want it.

Good Luck......

[Wil Ferch]

People who reported back to me say the total range of adjustment ( on the two-piece spring plate....meaning...w/o having to reindex the bars)...is about 1/2" - 3/4" total range. Maybe a bit more.

Sounds like you should be able to fine tune to the amount you are targeting. Can't speak to the sequence of bolts that need to be loosened...maybe others can give further advice.

- Wil

[JoeyJoeJoe]

Thanks guys, thats awesome. I'll post some pics when complete.

[wcc]

Ok, I know it's been a while but here is where I'm at. I've gotten my wheels back from Al and I installed a bump steer kit and a strut tower brace. I used my angles as mentioned above and literately jumped on the back bumper to make sure the suspension settled. It was too high so I adjusted the eccentric bolt to set it to Euro specs in the rear. So tonight was the first night I was able to take it on the road since all the work. When I got back it is almost .75in too low in the rear now. The front is fine. So, my piece of advice is to DRIVE your car instead of JUMPING on it before you take your measurements. Now I have to raise the rear-end some. Probably back to where it was before I messed with the eccentric bolts. Pics are coming soon!

EDIT: Thanks Thom and Will especially for modifying the calculator for me and all the advice.

[ZOA NOM]

I tried to tell you to put two greased plates under the wheels to allow adjustment without any jumping or driving. Glad you got it sorted out. Doesn't it look/handle great?

[wcc]

Zoanas - I thought that grease between the plates was really for setting the alignment? I was talking about the ride height eccentric bolt. Did I misunderstand?

Anyways, I'm dropping the car off for an alignment tonight and they'll get to it tomorrow. I just drove it a short distance cause I couldn't help it. It'll be all dialed in tomorrow. But yes, it does look AWESOME!!!!