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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Beech Island, SC
Posts: 9
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Hard brake line replacement
Can anyone recommend a fair labor time for replacing all except the through tunnel hard brake lines on a 86 northern born 911 that are so rusty all break when trying to replace the flex lines.
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If it costs more then $70, it's cheaper to just buy the flaring tool and do it yourself. All that you need is the flairing tool, a hacksaw and it you really want to spend money a tube bending tool.
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John '69 911E "It's a poor craftsman who blames their tools" -- Unknown "Any suspension -- no matter how poorly designed -- can be made to work reasonably well if you just stop it from moving." -- Colin Chapman |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sun Valley Idaho
Posts: 91
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I replace the hard lines on my '73 because with front and rear coil overs,the front struts do not have a purchase point for the hard line to the brake caliper. Also the rears needed to be replaced because when replacing steel trailing arms with aluminum ones ,the old hard line was too long and bending a big 'u' in line didn't seem correct. So I replaced the hard lines with aeroequip s.s. lines. It worked out just fine. Trying to cut,bend new hard lines,can be 'pain'. with the s.s.line its an easy bolt on operation. The cost for fittings and lines was about $60.00 I bought mine at American street rod, 1-800-990-1912 and talk to Jay tell him what lengh you want and he will know what type fittings you'll need.
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More is better and too much is JUST enough |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Mid-Ohio
Posts: 715
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I would guess most shops would call that a 3 or 4 hour job... much beyond that and its a gouge. Those lines shouldn't be rusty though because they're copper.
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NJ
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I'm going to be doing this myself very soon - If you search, you'll find some posts in response to my questions with some good info and links.
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-Brian |
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Quote:
They may be copper plated steel to resist corrosion. |
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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Early brakes lines are plated steel; later lines are a copper-nickel alloy called Cunifer.
copper brake lines |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,447
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I don't know about a stock '86, but when I installed 930 brakes on my '88, I had to make some. I'm betting you don't even need the flaring setup, just get the appropriate lengths from any autoparts store (NAPA, Autozone, etc. all carry them ), a cheap (less than $10 bending tool), and fabricate your own. It isn't difficult at all.
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NJ
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Related question: To remove the line that runs through the belly pan of the car to the rear splitter. Is it as simple as removing the grommet on both ends and fishing the thing out? Can the new one be threaded throuhg relatively easily? Thanks.
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-Brian |
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I've done that, but I seem to remember having the engine and transmission out of the car at the time which really simplified the process.
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John '69 911E "It's a poor craftsman who blames their tools" -- Unknown "Any suspension -- no matter how poorly designed -- can be made to work reasonably well if you just stop it from moving." -- Colin Chapman |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: South Elgin, IL
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Quote:
No I tried it and ended up bending the line to make it fit ![]()
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Mike Minister of YEP 1986 targa 3.2 " RED" 1970 Little T (Wife’s car) Gruppe B # 917 |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NJ
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Thanks - the engine is out so that's not a problem. Looks like the opportune time to do it. So it pretty much slides out in and in that case?
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-Brian |
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Kolibri
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I'm doing it right now. Go to discount auto parts, get the <$10 tool and a few hours later your ok with all new steel lines. Bending is so easy you'll laugh.
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1942 VW Kübelwagen 1940 Zündapp KS 600 1941 Zündapp KS 750 1975 Volvo C303 TGBII 1967 Honda S90, 1975 CB550 |
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Kolibri
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Oh yeah, when you bend a hard turn, might be a good idea to TAPE the fittings to either end. Else, after a nice fabrication, you're stuck w/ both fittings on one end. HEHE ask me how I know this...
Michael
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1942 VW Kübelwagen 1940 Zündapp KS 600 1941 Zündapp KS 750 1975 Volvo C303 TGBII 1967 Honda S90, 1975 CB550 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Beech Island, SC
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I guess I didn't post my Question right. I have a customer that came to me to replace the pads rotors and calipers as well the flex lines. When I told him the hard lines were frozen and would break and there would be a considerable amount of labor to replace the hard lines he couldn't understand why I would be charging him more. As I understand the engine and transmission has to be removed to replace the left rear hard line coming from the tunnel line.
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 640
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Why not cut the end off the line shortening, reflare (put new fitting on first) and replace the flexible line with a longer piece?
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-Brian |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 640
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To answer your question more directly, I can't see why it cant be done without removeing the engine and transmission. A partial drop might make it easier.
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-Brian |
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