help removing G50 please
 

So we've got the engine and G50 trans out of the clubsport, now we're trying to seperate the two. What is the deal with the clutch fork ? We have pulled the two apart as far as they will go, but there seems no way that the clutch fork will slip up and over the throwout bearing. Do we need to remove the clutch fork pivot pin?

please help.

You must remove the pivot pin. Take off the 10mm bolt holding a clamp on the plastic cap covering the pivot pin. Get a long 6mm bolt and thread it into the center of the pin. Pull on the bolt and the pin will come out.

Chris

Yep - I figured that out after a bit of careful searching.....but really now "pull on the bolt and it will come out" ? That's a laff - We've been slide hammering that bolt for about an hour now and it's not budging even a tenth of a millimetre.

We tried putting some heat on the trans case and the clutch fork, but alas I don't have a torch, just a bottle of MAPP (MPZ) gas and it doesn't work upside down. I can't get enough heat anywhere where it matters .

Any tips on pulling that bolt are greatly appreciated.

Jasper, go to bed!! I thought you would have got it apart by now. I mean I didn't get any more phone calls...... :) Hmm Hans and Dieter maybe were drinking the regular beer when they built that one. (inside joke!)

Cheers

If the G50 cross shaft update has not been done yet, those original needle bearings can really gall themselves in there. I had a hell of a time getting mine out. Slide hammer did nothing.

Here's what I rigged up:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1142943195.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1142943294.jpg

I was sure I was going to break off one of the ears on the bell housing with the amount of force I had to put into turning those nuts. But then it just popped loose and slid out.

Good luck.

FWIW, I written a tech article on how to do a clutch on a G50 car. Send me your email address, I'll fwd the information to you.

paddlerjim at aol dot com

Wow, some of you guys have had it tough. For me it just came out easily :0

Chris

Hello mate

I wrestled with mine for ages and then 1 day I gave it a tap INWARDS and it made a hollow clunk and broke the seal then it slid out easily.

Might be worth a pop

Good luck & be carefull not to break the ears off the case.

You will be askign questions about the update shaft next I bet!

jevvy - Nice tip - we'll try that for sure.

Hey Jeff - we worked on that rig too late last night. Thanks for your help. I guess we should invest in a bentley too. Funny I don't need it all that often for my 3.0/915 car though. G50 G-shmifty.

Jim - I've emallied you at home - look forward to seeing your write up. - thanks

I used a long 1/2 socket and a xtra long 10 mm bolt that had a nut and a washer on the end. used a wrench to tighten the bolt (which made it pull the pin out) Worked like a charm. But yes, with the clutch dust and a little galling can make the job interesting.

Another nice suggestion Jeremy, with I'd thought of that since I had all the parts kicking about to do it.

I'm having a hard time visualizing what you did there...Is the retaining tab supposed to come off the end of the pin? Ours is really stuck on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1142962926.gif

OK - I have been asleep since I did this last - looking at it reminded me of how I did it -

I took one of the engine to bell housing studs and secured it into the hole of the clutch pin. I then found a big 1/2 inch socket (with enough room for the tab) and put the stud through the rachet end - put a washer and nut on the stud then tightened the nut - this "pulled" the clutch pin out of the housing using deliberate pressure.

Hope that helps -

So the socket is big enough to clear the tab. That would be like an inch or so. And you used a stud.....although a long bolt would work as well. Good info. We'll try that.

In the graphic I'm curious what item #10 is (are). Can I also assume that the setup below is the upgrade?

Remove it cafefully. I also used a slide hammer to remove. When it finally came out, it broke the ear on the tranny housing. I didn't have the update kit and some of the needle bearings were welded on the cross shaft. Some pixs of what you don't want to happen in this tread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/134877-g50-tranny-ear-broke-off-while-removing-release-shaft.html?highlight=g50

Oh yeah - we're not worried about breaking castings here - no sir, that won't happen to us because we are incredibly lucky. Nothing bad ever happens to us :rolleyes:

Seriously though, thanks for the warning - I kinda had this in the back of my mind but now it's front and centre. We're soaking the system in rust oil which *should* help. The way I see it, drawing the pin out using the socket and stud method should put less strain on the castings than using a slide hammer.

Wish us luck.

and that's why I used a socket and went slowly - good luck!

OK - success. Piece of cake in the end. Soaked it in rust oil (Wurth brand but PB Blaster type stuff) overnight. Then we used a piece of ready rod, and first a long socket, then switching to a piece of pipe later. A big washer and a nut on the far end of the rod and we slowy pulled the pin out by turning the nut (see pics).

Note that we decided to break the retaining tab off because there was no way a socket big enough to clear the tab was going to give us a straight pull. I'll bet you did the same way back when Jeremy. The pivot shaft will be upgraded anyway, so there's no reason to preserve it.

Check out the last pic - imagine our surprise when we discovered the original rubber centred clutch still installed and providing usable bite on the track. This clubsport has 201,000 km on it guys. The friction disc still had lots of lining left on it and the rubber looked in fine shape. Goes to show you don't it?

Thanks once again Pelicaners. Couldn't have pulled this job off without you.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143013378.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143013441.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143013488.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143013541.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143013585.jpg

Sweet - and no broken tranny ears - glad I was able to help

Front the picture, looks like there may be a couple of oil leaks on the top side of the motor. Be sure to replace the oil pressure switch and the oil ring for the thermostat. Also inspect the oil breather hoses. 'While you are in there', not a bad idea to remove the plastic cover that directs are to the oil cooler, and then remove the oil cooler so that 3 O-Rings may be replaced

The oil leaks are actually the primary reason for the engine drop. The clutch replacement is the "while we're in there" part of the job. Good tip for the oil cooler though. I was actually wondering what the best strategy was. Thanks again everyone.

I'm stuck at this point myself but from what I can see on mine, there is no threaded hole to put a bolt into like I see here. Any ideas what I can do?

IIRC you have to remove the bolt that holds the small tab on shaft. See the picture that Jeremy D posted on page 1. The red arrow is pointing to the bolt.

have you removed the 1 or 2 bolts holding the little plate that covers it?

OK, I'm a dumbass...I did not realize there was a hard plastic cover OVER the opening for the threaded bolt. I've rigged up a 6mm bolt and some washers to hopefully draw it out but I've put a pretty good amount of pressure on it and it's not budging. I shot it with PB Blaster and will let it sit a while then give it another go. I can only get the PB Blaster on the side near the threaded side so it's not going to help on the "passenger" side.

New problem...sort of. I was turning the bolt, heard a snap/pop and assumed it had broken loose. No such luck, the darned bolted snapped off about halfway down. Fortunately, I managed to slowly back it out using a very small pair of needlenosed pliers...disaster avoided for now. What's to stop the next bolt from snapping as well? I'm 99% sure mine has the updgraded part since it was mentioned in the service records from the PO.

Holy thread revival!

My first thought is to get a stronger bolt, but if the pin is that firmly siezed in the hole, then you run the risk of breaking the ears off the trans case (IIRC, this has happened more than once)

Proceed with extreme caution, and soak the hell out of the parts you can get to with PB Blaster or similar!

Just to update...I messed up by not having a large enough washer. It was sliding off the shoulder and basically compressing against itself. Once I added a large enough washer to keep it on the shoulder it came out. It appears to have the needle bearing release lever but the reciepts from the PO show Cl Lever update kit AND needle bearings. Not sure that makes sense.

Heat is your friend in these instances also. The material differences between the steel shaft and alloy trans. case should work in your favor. Problem is there's a lot of metal mass which will act as a big heat sink.

It sounds to me like the previous wrencher used a new shaft with the old release fork. If you removed a plastic cap and there are needle bearing cups in the bellhousing bores? You've got the updated shaft assembly. The complete update assembly for this troublesome clutch actuation system is:

-Revised shaft with needle bearing cups in the trans. bellhousing, bellhousing drilled larger accordingly, rubber seals between shaft and bearing cups, plastic cap which covers shaft end, separate mounting tab to secure shaft in bore

-Revised release fork with beefier fingers and plastic pivot bushings instead of former needle bearings

-Revised release bearing with beefier ears and a smaller bore.

-Revised release bearing guide tube with smaller outside diameter

I'd ditch the factory shaft & fork update stuff and go with the Pelican/Weltmeister update kit. It gives you more reliable bronze bushings instead of needle bearings which need to be repacked with new on occasion.

I've run into this same problem - stuck cross shaft. Has anyone come up with any new extraction methods?

Later this evening I'm going to try the bolt and socket method.

Thanks,

Wow the thread that keeps on giving. I originally posted the question 2.5 years ago!

Some penetrating oil, a long bolt, and a long socket is all you need. The aim is to *draw* it out, not yank it out.

Good luck with that.

That process worked like a champ. Thanks for the info!

During reassembly, look at manual to insure correct order of shaft parts

Interesting thread.

I have just droped my engine and the cross shaft came out very easily just using my fingers (is that wrong) How can i tell if mine has had the update?

Hey Coxy

In the image below the updated shaft is the white one and the original one is yellow. Basically I think they moved the needle bearings from the fork area to the ends of the shaft and increased the size of the holes in the gearbox case:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1142962926.gif

When I did mine I used the bushing style upgrade instead of the original needle bearing design and "Neverseez" as lube for the bushings.

I had the engine out a couple of years later and checked the cross shaft. It was able to pull it out with my fingers.

That's very wrong. It's not supposed to be easy! We worked for several evenings getting that thing out and we're richer for teh experience.

Maybe try changing the coolant expansion tank in a 996.....if that doesn't make you cry then nothing will.:D

Help!
 

The cross shaft in my 88 won't budge. Tried the slide hammer until I got to the point that I was getting concerned about breaking the ear off the trans case. Fortunately did not.

Backing it out with the second technique (socket and jack-screw) did not work, only presented me with another problem. My cross shaft had a tiny (6mm) internal tapped hole. Translation = using a slide hammer or any other means of pulling out a much larger diameter frozen shaft with a 6mm stud is simply asking for trouble. Yes, now I have a broken stud inside the cross shaft. I see some of the other posts showing a much larger treaded stud... larger than 6mm.. what am I missing??

Now I need to drill out the broken stud, only to be left w/the original problem. Any other tricks out there??

I'm considering drilling and tapping a larger dia hole to give me a little more pulling power, but this shaft looks hard. Not in a happy place right now...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!