help removing G50 please

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

So we've got the engine and G50 trans out of the clubsport, now we're trying to seperate the two. What is the deal with the clutch fork ? We have pulled the two apart as far as they will go, but there seems no way that the clutch fork will slip up and over the throwout bearing. Do we need to remove the clutch fork pivot pin?

please help.

CBRacerX · CBRacerX's Garage

You must remove the pivot pin. Take off the 10mm bolt holding a clamp on the plastic cap covering the pivot pin. Get a long 6mm bolt and thread it into the center of the pin. Pull on the bolt and the pin will come out.

Chris

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by CBRacerX
You must remove the pivot pin. Take off the 10mm bolt holding a clamp on the plastic cap covering the pivot pin. Get a long 6mm bolt and thread it into the center of the pin. Pull on the bolt and the pin will come out.

Yep - I figured that out after a bit of careful searching.....but really now "pull on the bolt and it will come out" ? That's a laff - We've been slide hammering that bolt for about an hour now and it's not budging even a tenth of a millimetre.

We tried putting some heat on the trans case and the clutch fork, but alas I don't have a torch, just a bottle of MAPP (MPZ) gas and it doesn't work upside down. I can't get enough heat anywhere where it matters .

Any tips on pulling that bolt are greatly appreciated.

Jeff Alton · 03-20-2006, 10:20 PM

Jasper, go to bed!! I thought you would have got it apart by now. I mean I didn't get any more phone calls......

Hmm Hans and Dieter maybe were drinking the regular beer when they built that one. (inside joke!)

Cheers

J Smith · 03-21-2006, 03:16 AM

If the G50 cross shaft update has not been done yet, those original needle bearings can really gall themselves in there. I had a hell of a time getting mine out. Slide hammer did nothing.

Here's what I rigged up:

I was sure I was going to break off one of the ears on the bell housing with the amount of force I had to put into turning those nuts. But then it just popped loose and slid out.

Good luck.

Jim Smolka · 03-21-2006, 03:37 AM

FWIW, I written a tech article on how to do a clutch on a G50 car. Send me your email address, I'll fwd the information to you.

paddlerjim at aol dot com

CBRacerX · CBRacerX's Garage

Wow, some of you guys have had it tough. For me it just came out easily :0

Chris

jevvy · 03-21-2006, 04:34 AM

Hello mate

I wrestled with mine for ages and then 1 day I gave it a tap INWARDS and it made a hollow clunk and broke the seal then it slid out easily.

Might be worth a pop

Good luck & be carefull not to break the ears off the case.

You will be askign questions about the update shaft next I bet!

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by jevvy
Hello mate
I wrestled with mine for ages and then 1 day I gave it a tap INWARDS and it made a hollow clunk and broke the seal then it slid out easily.
Might be worth a pop
Good luck & be carefull not to break the ears off the case.

jevvy - Nice tip - we'll try that for sure.

Hey Jeff - we worked on that rig too late last night. Thanks for your help. I guess we should invest in a bentley too. Funny I don't need it all that often for my 3.0/915 car though. G50 G-shmifty.

Jim - I've emallied you at home - look forward to seeing your write up. - thanks

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

I used a long 1/2 socket and a xtra long 10 mm bolt that had a nut and a washer on the end. used a wrench to tighten the bolt (which made it pull the pin out) Worked like a charm. But yes, with the clutch dust and a little galling can make the job interesting.

jevvy · 03-21-2006, 06:32 AM

Another nice suggestion Jeremy, with I'd thought of that since I had all the parts kicking about to do it.

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by JeremyD
I used a long 1/2 socket and a xtra long 10 mm bolt that had a nut and a washer on the end. used a wrench to tighten the bolt (which made it pull the pin out)

I'm having a hard time visualizing what you did there...Is the retaining tab supposed to come off the end of the pin? Ours is really stuck on.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by jwetering
I'm having a hard time visualizing what you did there...Is the retaining tab supposed to come off the end of the pin? Ours is really stuck on.

OK - I have been asleep since I did this last - looking at it reminded me of how I did it -

I took one of the engine to bell housing studs and secured it into the hole of the clutch pin. I then found a big 1/2 inch socket (with enough room for the tab) and put the stud through the rachet end - put a washer and nut on the stud then tightened the nut - this "pulled" the clutch pin out of the housing using deliberate pressure.

Hope that helps -

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

So the socket is big enough to clear the tab. That would be like an inch or so. And you used a stud.....although a long bolt would work as well. Good info. We'll try that.

In the graphic I'm curious what item #10 is (are). Can I also assume that the setup below is the upgrade?

don911 · don911's Garage

Remove it cafefully. I also used a slide hammer to remove. When it finally came out, it broke the ear on the tranny housing. I didn't have the update kit and some of the needle bearings were welded on the cross shaft. Some pixs of what you don't want to happen in this tread.

#$%^!! G50 tranny - ear broke off while removing the release shaft

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by don911
Remove it cafefully. I also used a slide hammer to remove. When it finally came out, it broke the ear on the tranny housing. I didn't have the update kit and some of the needle bearings were welded on the cross shaft. Some pixs of what you don't want to happen in this tread.
#$%^!! G50 tranny - ear broke off while removing the release shaft

Oh yeah - we're not worried about breaking castings here - no sir, that won't happen to us because we are incredibly lucky. Nothing bad ever happens to us

Seriously though, thanks for the warning - I kinda had this in the back of my mind but now it's front and centre. We're soaking the system in rust oil which *should* help. The way I see it, drawing the pin out using the socket and stud method should put less strain on the castings than using a slide hammer.

Wish us luck.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

and that's why I used a socket and went slowly - good luck!

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

OK - success. Piece of cake in the end. Soaked it in rust oil (Wurth brand but PB Blaster type stuff) overnight. Then we used a piece of ready rod, and first a long socket, then switching to a piece of pipe later. A big washer and a nut on the far end of the rod and we slowy pulled the pin out by turning the nut (see pics).

Note that we decided to break the retaining tab off because there was no way a socket big enough to clear the tab was going to give us a straight pull. I'll bet you did the same way back when Jeremy. The pivot shaft will be upgraded anyway, so there's no reason to preserve it.

Check out the last pic - imagine our surprise when we discovered the original rubber centred clutch still installed and providing usable bite on the track. This clubsport has 201,000 km on it guys. The friction disc still had lots of lining left on it and the rubber looked in fine shape. Goes to show you don't it?

Thanks once again Pelicaners. Couldn't have pulled this job off without you.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Sweet - and no broken tranny ears - glad I was able to help

Jim Smolka · 06:11 AM

Front the picture, looks like there may be a couple of oil leaks on the top side of the motor. Be sure to replace the oil pressure switch and the oil ring for the thermostat. Also inspect the oil breather hoses. 'While you are in there', not a bad idea to remove the plastic cover that directs are to the oil cooler, and then remove the oil cooler so that 3 O-Rings may be replaced