Bouncing pop up headlights in slant nose

kepster · 03-23-2006, 06:24 AM

I have a 74 911 with a slant nose kit. The headlights are constantly bouncing because the bushing on the motor side of the linkage is worn. Does anyone out there have any experience with where to locate bushings or other parts that may have been used in these body kits? I think the motors are a mazda part, but am unsure of this. Thanks for any suggestions you may have.

87924gt · 87924gt's Garage

You might need to tighten the 3mm allen that hold them in place on the shaft. If your using the Mazda motors this seems to be the place to start when they start to move. I too have the Mazda light setup. And BTW, are those steel or f/g fenders?
Steve E

kepster · 03-23-2006, 08:34 AM

Thanks Steve. I will try that. I fabbed some ball bearing ends for the head light cover side. It is smooth as silk. It is just the other side. I will check those. The fenders on the car are fiberglass. Thanks again.

RickM · RickM's Garage

Kep, if you come up with a solution many would benefit. It's a common problem. A search will show this subject has come up a few times. Good luck.

Ken911 · 08:50 AM

hey how did you guys wire every thing up I am in the middle of installing the lights on mine in a few days and I dont have the wiring part figured out yet. i got the fenders and lights with the car. to convert it when it gets back from paint i'll start the installation of the lights and have no idea how the wiring is supposed to be hooked up. this equipment was used from another car so there were no instructions just a box of parts.

kepster · 03-23-2006, 09:24 AM

The wiring is a bit odd. Each motor has a relay on it. The original relay was a mazda part which cost about $115.00 to replace. I replaced it with a basic dual post/dual throw relay that I found at pep boys. There are also similar relays that it passes through before being sent off to the motors. So, it seems to me that there is a more logical way to do it than they used on my car. they work though. I do not have any sort of diagram for them. Basically, when I had to work on them I had the test light and my son operating the switch and kinda figured my way through. I wonder if the company that manufactured your kit might have a diagram, or if it is a mazda part maybe a mazda manual.

Ken911 · 09:34 AM

I have no idea what company manufactured the kit . the front fenders and the lights had been pulled off another car and piled in a warehouse for a number of years. when i bought my car with the intention of modding it the guy i bought it from said he had a set of fenders and lights and tossed them in with the deal. also trying to figure out what to do about the washer reservoir. what type of glue to use when i cut the top off. the factory and the old installers in the 80's used a plastic welder to do that but i think these days there should be a good glue that does the same thing.

Ashley Bowler · Ashley Bowler's Garage

but I've found a guy here in Southern California thats a genius with these things. Plus........he's dirt cheap. He's working on mine right now. So, if you want to PM me I'll give you his number

kepster · 03-30-2006, 04:58 AM

bump

RickM · RickM's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Ken911
also trying to figure out what to do about the washer reservoir. what type of glue to use when i cut the top off. the factory and the old installers in the 80's used a plastic welder to do that but i think these days there should be a good glue that does the same thing.

To convert the washer bottle you can use a pistol grip type solder gun or a higher wattage standard solder pencil to plastic weld the pieces together. Using the scraps from cutting the bottle down you can cut strips which are used as you filler/weld material. Using the solder gun as as your welder you can fuse the two pieces together. You may have to sacrifice a tip or two and it will be messy but it works well. I think I took a copper solder tip and modifiied it (with a hammer

) to a spoon shape....this helps in creating a smooth seam. When done you can sand smooth and seal/protect with a product like PlastiDip.

You could also use a real plastic welder ($29).... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41592

Below shows the seam where the cut 'n paste took place...

Ken911 · 05:50 AM

oh ok cool looks like thats the way i'll do it, thanks!!!!! Oh and Anthony thanks for posting the pic of the front of your car Thats the same front spoiler I am putting on my car so I was able to print it out and take it over to the body shop so they could see how every thing fits.

kepster · 03-30-2006, 07:59 AM

Ashley, I sent you a PM for that info. Thanks