Rear bearing Saga....cont.

BOCNasty · 02-01-2006, 08:26 AM

Well i got the rear bearing in with no problems, after freezing the bearing and heating the hub the bearing just popped in by hand. My question is i reinstalled the backing plate (31) and the Reinforcing cover (19) and the bearing is still loose. Should the backing plate be holding the bearing in place?

sammygon1 · 02-01-2006, 09:13 AM

What do you mean the bearing is loose? Does it slide in and out?
-Sam

Evans, Marv · 02-01-2006, 09:25 AM

Nick,
Did you press your hub into the bearing? The bearing might feel loose on the outer race until you get the hub installed and tightened down.

BOCNasty · 02-01-2006, 12:32 PM

The outer part of the bearing is tight now that the temp difference is closer, but the inner part is loose, no i haven't pressed the hub in yet, i didn't want to remove it if this wasn't normal.

sammygon1 · 02-01-2006, 01:51 PM

The inner part of the bearing rides inside the outer part. As long as the outer part of the bearing is pressed in all the way you shouldn't have a problem. Unless of course you applied force to the inner part of the bearing during install in which case you may have ruined the bearing.
-Sam

BOCNasty · 02-01-2006, 04:37 PM

I didn't have to press the bearing into the arm, it just poped in by hand. I'm about to press in the hub, but the inner race is very loose, i can pull it in and out about 1/8 inch. I was just wondering if this is normal before i go ahead and press in the hub.

Jim Sims · 02-01-2006, 06:16 PM

Do not pound in the hub; it should be drawn in gently using a nut and washer. Jim

Grady Clay · 02-01-2006, 08:14 PM

The outer race of the bearing is one piece. There are two separate inner races. Basically only the seals hold the inner races in place prior to installation. They are very free axially and also radially (depending on axial position). Once the hub and stub axle are torqued together with the nut on the stub axle, the bearing is operating with a pre-load.

This pre-load is necessary to keep the bearing intact (balls in contact with the races) during normal operation. Improper (insufficient) torque allows the balls to loose contact with the race(s) under some circumstances and damage results. Too much torque results in overloading the bearing under some circumstances and damage results. This is why that big ¾” torque wrench is so important.

As the bearing is used, the races tend to be retained by the balls. Occasionally you can remove the hub and the inner race toward the hub will stay in the bearing assembly. Usually the inner race toward the hub stays attached to the hub on disassembly. There has been a lot of argument about if the bearing is damaged when this happens.

My opinion is that the rear wheel bearing replacement is relatively infrequent and should usually be renewed.

If the bearing is loose in the trailing arm, there is a Loctite produce specifically for retaining bearings. If another bearing replacement is necessary, 500F causes the Loctite to release. I think this is a very unusual situation.

Nick did the correct install by heating the trailing arm and freezing the bearing.

Yes, Jim is right on. Use the nut and stub axle to pull the parts together. You probably will have to start the process without the large washer under the nut. Differential heat/cool helps also (freezing the hub) but not as much/easy as the bearing install.

The parking brake backing plate and reinforcement cover should always be inspected to be flat where they contact the bearing and trailing arm. Frequently that part is deformed and doesn’t hold the bearing axially. Usually this is from a failed bearing having been run for some time.

When the bearing is out of the trailing arm, the bearing bore in the arm should be carefully measured with a bore gauge. There is an interference fit between the trailing arm bore and the OD of the bearing.

Best,
Grady

mrdol · 03-23-2006, 01:12 PM

I have installed a new rear bearing with the sir tool and then installed the hub with the same. The hub/bearing is wobbling slightly. When I pressed the hub in the distance between the inside of the hub and the cast part of the trailing arm that the parking brake cale protrudes is 1 18/32". On the oposite side the hub it is 1 17/32. Enought to make it wobble and enough that when I install the roter it will not turn when I screw it into the hub. The brake assembly is no the issue. Have I pressed the hub in too far to the bearing? I would think that if it was not far enough then I would not see this issue. The other side is put back together so I don't have measurements without disassembling.
thanks
eric

mrdol · 03-25-2006, 08:25 PM

I believe my problem is that I bent the hub slightly when removing it from the car. I was using two pry bars and must have exerted too much force. Is it possible to heat the hub while off ther bearing and try and straighten it? Does anyone have a hub that they could sell?
thanks
eric