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Camber setting for a street car?
Guys,
What's the recommended negative camber setting for a daily street car, front and rear? I'm thinking perhaps somewhere between -1.0 to -1.5 degrees all round :confused: Anyone beg to differ? |
The factory says 0 front and 1 degree neg rear.
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Thanks. That's with the factory suspension and FUCH's though, right?
I run KONI adjustables all round as well as 235/40/18 up front and 285/35/18 on the rears :confused: |
Right.
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Well, I ran -1 front and -1.5 rear and it worked well, nice even wear if you have sticky tires and drive aggressively, but I'm not sure if the big 18's would like a bit less or a bit more or the same. It would probably be a good starting point.
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The more negative camber, the more you run on the inside edge of the tires.
For mildly aggressive street driving with your extra-wide tires, not more than 1 deg front, and 1.5 rear. |
Would -0.5 front and -1.0 rear be good on 17"?
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I actually got better turn-in with less front camber. If you have a stiff suspension that doesn't roll much at street speeds, too much negative camber will give you a longer contact patch just when you need a wider one.
So with stiff suspension, maybe -.5°. With stock suspension, probably a bit more would work best. |
How would you know if more negative camber would be better if you've never baselined your experience from factory settings?
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By trial and error.
0.5 front and 1 for the rear sounds good to me for street driving. I tried a few different settings and this feels good to me. Many threads and posts and opinions on this issue and too many confuse street driving with track driving. |
Shouldn't camber be setand fine tuned by recording tire temps after track driving or street driving (then look at tire wear)?
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I'll see what the workshop recommends, but I might suggest -1.0 and -1.5 to them to see what they say.
Thanks. |
merv
there's much much more to it than just camber. i find front toe adjustement to have a huge affect on the handling of my RS rep - particularly turn in. find a specialist suspension shop and let them set the whole shooting match - camber/castor/toe/rake/ride heights etc. the setup i use now came from giving the car to a suspension shop with the instructions: "i'm off to targa tas next week, do your thing". also, get them to corner balance the car with a weight equivalent to you in the driver's seat. |
Depends on how aggressively you drive and how long you want your tires to last. I ran with 1.0 front and 1.5 rear and went thru a set of tires in about 8000 miles (Yokohama AVS Intermediates). Went with 0.5 front and 1.0 rear and tires now last about 12000-15000, but still get most wear on the inside shoulders of all 4 tires.
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Hi Ryan, yup, it's going to be corner balanced and aligned too, but I just wanted some advice on the camber settings cause my old P-Zero's wore out real fast on the inside. The -ve camber was just way too agressive and they wore like a mofo. For a daily street driven car, I want these new tyres to last as long as possible :confused:
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On the street, its pretty much entirely a tire wear issue, particularly if you're running stiffer suspension than stock and big tires. Some guys deviate to get fender clearance, but you've got a widebody, right?
On the track, its another issue entirely and it depends on what your tires "like". Toe, on the other hand, is instantly noticeable. In on the street, neutral or out on a track/ax car. With big tires, neutral or out on the street really increases driver workload. |
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