Camber setting for a street car?

WydRyd · 08:59 PM

Guys,

What's the recommended negative camber setting for a daily street car, front and rear?

I'm thinking perhaps somewhere between -1.0 to -1.5 degrees all round

Anyone beg to differ?

stlrj · 03-29-2006, 09:30 PM

The factory says 0 front and 1 degree neg rear.

WydRyd · 03-30-2006, 02:12 AM

Thanks. That's with the factory suspension and FUCH's though, right?

I run KONI adjustables all round as well as 235/40/18 up front and 285/35/18 on the rears

stlrj · 03-30-2006, 03:57 AM

Right.

masraum · 03-30-2006, 05:01 AM

Well, I ran -1 front and -1.5 rear and it worked well, nice even wear if you have sticky tires and drive aggressively, but I'm not sure if the big 18's would like a bit less or a bit more or the same. It would probably be a good starting point.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

The more negative camber, the more you run on the inside edge of the tires.
For mildly aggressive street driving with your extra-wide tires, not more than 1 deg front, and 1.5 rear.

Kroggers · Kroggers's Garage

Would -0.5 front and -1.0 rear be good on 17"?

RallyJon · 03-30-2006, 06:15 AM

I actually got better turn-in with less front camber. If you have a stiff suspension that doesn't roll much at street speeds, too much negative camber will give you a longer contact patch just when you need a wider one.

So with stiff suspension, maybe -.5°. With stock suspension, probably a bit more would work best.

stlrj · 03-30-2006, 06:23 AM

How would you know if more negative camber would be better if you've never baselined your experience from factory settings?

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

By trial and error.
0.5 front and 1 for the rear sounds good to me for street driving.
I tried a few different settings and this feels good to me.
Many threads and posts and opinions on this issue and too many confuse street driving with track driving.

JonT · 03-30-2006, 08:25 AM

Shouldn't camber be setand fine tuned by recording tire temps after track driving or street driving (then look at tire wear)?

WydRyd · 03-30-2006, 02:38 PM

I'll see what the workshop recommends, but I might suggest -1.0 and -1.5 to them to see what they say.
Thanks.

obrut · 03-30-2006, 02:52 PM

merv

there's much much more to it than just camber. i find front toe adjustement to have a huge affect on the handling of my RS rep - particularly turn in.

find a specialist suspension shop and let them set the whole shooting match - camber/castor/toe/rake/ride heights etc.

the setup i use now came from giving the car to a suspension shop with the instructions: "i'm off to targa tas next week, do your thing".

also, get them to corner balance the car with a weight equivalent to you in the driver's seat.

FrdzRed · FrdzRed's Garage

Depends on how aggressively you drive and how long you want your tires to last. I ran with 1.0 front and 1.5 rear and went thru a set of tires in about 8000 miles (Yokohama AVS Intermediates). Went with 0.5 front and 1.0 rear and tires now last about 12000-15000, but still get most wear on the inside shoulders of all 4 tires.

WydRyd · 03-30-2006, 03:41 PM

Hi Ryan, yup, it's going to be corner balanced and aligned too, but I just wanted some advice on the camber settings cause my old P-Zero's wore out real fast on the inside. The -ve camber was just way too agressive and they wore like a mofo. For a daily street driven car, I want these new tyres to last as long as possible

greglepore · 03-30-2006, 04:36 PM

On the street, its pretty much entirely a tire wear issue, particularly if you're running stiffer suspension than stock and big tires. Some guys deviate to get fender clearance, but you've got a widebody, right?

On the track, its another issue entirely and it depends on what your tires "like".

Toe, on the other hand, is instantly noticeable. In on the street, neutral or out on a track/ax car. With big tires, neutral or out on the street really increases driver workload.