it hums a little with key on. plug it back in to the connector, even with all the afm stuff off, and turn the key, you'll here it vibrate.
you might have to plug the afm back in to, but I doubt it

I don't think the ICV is going to be the issue if your idle is swinging from 800-1500. I believe there is window within which it will correct, but it is much smaller than this.

Following up on it is a good idea, maintenance-wise, but I think you'll most likely find your problem elsewhere,

ianc

No, I dont think it will be the ICV in the end, but im trying to eliminate as many varible as i can. I tried testing my fuel pressure, but the stinking pressure gauge fitting doesn't fit the rail.

Zoanas: its is indeed the relay i am replacing.

I have anthor thread dedicated to this problem, but i started this one just to resolve the ICV questions i have.

In that thread i talk about checking the CHT (I have then new 2 wire) and even the flywheel senosrs. Then sensors looked good with the cable soft and plyable with no cracks. However, the end of the sensor had a small pile of metal filings built up in a little mound on the end of the magnetic pick up. Mayby stuck up about 1/16 of and inch or so. I wondered if this could cause any pickup issues.

I've read up on the AFM "fix" and I will be trying that if all else fails. Im not sure how to get the black cover off. Do you just pry?

Hey Jerry, it does indeed hum. Cant wait till you get back to use that fancy dancy meter of yours:D

It's usually sealed with a bead of silicone. I use a 2" wide putty knife and tap it under the edge of the cover all the way around. I have split the edge of the cover, but it still seals up when you put a new bead on re-installation.

the wildly fluctuating idle is usually because the idle air screw is in or out too far from the nominal setting and the ICV is trying to correct it. turn the idle down until it stops surging. it also could be the throttle micro-switch is not working. listen for a quiet click upon opening the throttle and test it at the plug with an ohmmeter. i replaced a AFM today on a 84 because it was very touchy moving the car around slowly, and would be very easy to kill the engine. i cleaned the ICV first and even put on a good used one, but it was the AFM. night and day difference. a check for ICV function is to rev the engine at idle and see if the valve responds with a quick surge as the RPM drops again.

I should be clear here. The wild surging only happened once (along with the engine cutting out and back on). However, the day before that happened I DID turn UP the idle speed by a half turn or so to try and fix my typical symptoms. My typical idle problem symtoms (prior to the wild surging incident) are a rough irregular idle thats seemed to to surge up and down a little, by "little" i would guess 20 rpmor so. The engine just didn't sound steady would be another way to put it - until it warmed up then it was fine. When i turned up the idle speed the surging went away, however the next day i had the incident with the wild rpm hunting and the engine cutting out and back on.

BTW Mr. Walker, I do hear a click, but how do you go about checking the OHM reading and what am i looking for as far as readings go. Do I just unplug it and test the resistance.

the wire from the micro-switch goes to a two pin plug to the right of the throttle housing. an ohmmeter will just go back and forth from open circuit to some small resistance as you work the throttle.

I went back to my notes on all my tests i've done thus far. I did indeed do this test and it checked out.