Im just glad it worked out for you.

10 bucks says you never do it again. :D

Hi Kirk,
Great news!!! I hope to see it up and running through the neighborhood soon!
Jeff

Ive been following this thread and learned a lot- thanks to those who contributed- and, kirk, cool! so happy for you- why? cause i know someone who got off lucky when he left a plastic shopping bag back there- who, me? well, ah . . . maybe.

watch her closely but sound like you're good. congrats.

Kirk,

Here are a couple of very useful links – there are many more:

”Did one of the ten dumbest moves -- need help”

”Pulley Shims, Wrong Config?”

Best,
Grady

Well, I got my car back from the shop. I was told that I had a major vacuum leak on the #6 intake runner. I have removed the engine and fuel injection components and determined that I need to do the following.

-Replace all intake manifold gaskets. Do in need gasket seal on these?
-Oil pressure switch / preventative maintenance.
-Oil thermostat o-ring / preventative maintenance.
-Crankcase breather hose & gasket / pm.
-Oil cooler seals / pm.
-11 blade fan, two big chips in two blades.
-Directional cooler that attaches to back of alternator, blades loose.
-Fuel injector o-rings & sleeves. Mine are siliconed in.
-New engine sound pad. Mine looks like an old diaper.
-Miscellaneous vacuum lines. I have one that is broken that attaches to the back of the throttle and power brake booster? Where does this go?
-I have two vacuum lines that are a mystery as well.
-there are two vacuum lines that come out of the upper portion of
throttle on the back side. The lower one is plugged
-on the front side there is are two vacuum outlets, one addressed
by the broken one above, the lower one was not connected to
anything.

In referring to front and back I am referencing front and back in relation to the engine. Back being toward the bumper and front toward the passenger compartment.

My air box has a broken bracket on the front side that mounts next to the throttle linkage on top of the engine. Do I need to replace the airbox? If so, how difficult is it to remove the fuel regulator, throttle etc. It appears as though the have been off the airbox as there is gasket sealant that looks non-factory in origin, sloppy and messy.

Can anyone see anything else I should address while in there? Oh, I am going to do a valve adjustment as well.

Thanks for all the help.

Kirk

Kirk:
No sealant needed; just gaskets for the intake runners. Also, get new rubber sleeves from the airbox to the runners.
I can address all of the rest but I need to see pictures.
Make room by removing the heater fan/hoses and take pix of the items mentioned and post them here.
You can also use the "Search feature", or the parts diagram, for the vacuum lines.

Kirk,

If you haven’t had the valves adjusted yet – wait. With the engine out you can much more easily torque the cylinder head nuts, torque the rocker arm shaft bolts, check the valve clearance and check the cam timing. Doing this while the engine is out will give you the insight so it will be easier while the engine is installed. Valve adjustment is best done after an extended amount of highway or spirited driving.

Since you need to replace the engine fan, you might consider also replacing the crankshaft pulley. Your ’82 has a 127 mm pulley that gives you a 1.68:1 ratio. Using the 134 mm pulley from a ’78-’79 911SC will give you a ratio of 1.81:1 and about 8% increase in cooling. It also improves the defrosters and A/C function – none critical in MN but still useful.

Is your air pump operational? If not, it is much easier to adjust the fan belt using the non-air pump outer pulley half. Having a spare outer pulley half, cup washer, nut, six shims, and an already run belt is very handy.

I’m certainly glad this turned out OK. Maintain a log of your periodic compression and leak measurements and the prior driving conditions. Knowing your norms is useful in spotting a change and diagnosing the cause.

Best,
Grady