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Why would my car be so high?

Just curious why my 77 911 is so high. I measured the front and got 25". I then measured the back and got 25.5. The car is a Euro. From reading another guys post who I think said he had euro spec, I seem a 1/2 high in the front and 1-1/2" to high in the rear.

Any guesses to why?

Thanks,

David

Old 04-03-2006, 07:35 AM
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You're 1/2" low in the front ( vs. commonly called "Euro" height)...and about 1/2" high in the back .....

Wil
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Old 04-03-2006, 07:39 AM
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Does this look high? Hope this works.

Thanks,

David
Old 04-03-2006, 07:43 AM
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Old 04-03-2006, 07:45 AM
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Last try.
Old 04-03-2006, 07:47 AM
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Looks like you need a new flash in your camera!!!

In all seriousness, I'm anxious to see the replies as my '86 looks a touch high in the back as well. Mine is also Euro (ZZZ Serial number), but I'm guessing that it was raised upon importation.
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:21 AM
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I would leave the 25" front and come down 1" in the rear to 24.5"
That would mean re-indexing the rear torsion bars.
If the main bushings are sagging/worn, this is the time to replace them.
If you can't do the bushings, and indexing the bars for ride height yourself, figure on about 8 hours shop time.
Alignment and corner-balance should be done at the same time.
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:20 AM
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:50 AM
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:57 AM
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Not sure what indexing the bars means but I absolutely am not paying to have that done. I will leave as in for now.

Thanks,

David
Old 04-03-2006, 10:21 AM
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David,

Indexing requires the trailing to be removed from the torsion bar and replace one spline clock wise of CCW to adjust the loading on the bar, affecting the ride height
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:28 AM
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It sounds like to much for my rachet set and screw drivers. I'll add it to the list of things.

Thanks,

Jon
Old 04-03-2006, 10:31 AM
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That 25.5F 25R figure is based on a tire dia of about 25". If you go smaller, the height will decrease by half the difference in dia.
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:44 AM
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Bring it Norwood in 2 weeks, My dad and I are pulling ours apart to replace all the bushings and Torsion bars among other things
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Old 04-03-2006, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Swank911
David,

Indexing requires the trailing to be removed from the torsion bar and replace one spline clock wise of CCW to adjust the loading on the bar, affecting the ride height
That's a .........hazy description.
Both wheels have to come off the ground, swaybar, and rear shocks, disconnected, remove torsion plate cover, let trailing arm and torsion plates hang loose and make marks on the body/torsion plates for later referrence.
Now comes Indexing:
It requires the removal of the torsion plates (Also called spring plates) from the torsion bars, then, depending on the amount of height-adjustment, either the inner 40-spline-end of the bar is changed within the bar-housing, or the outer 44-spline-end is used by re-setting the torsion plate on the bar.
Depending on the year, there may be a two-part torsion plate with an eccentric bolt to allow smaller height-adjustments later.
There a formulas to set the angles of the plates with a protractor to change ride heights. Do not attempt unless you understand the principle of the 40/44 spline system and be prepared to go up and down several times before you are happy with the result.
Also, these same torsion plates have eccentric bolts on the trailing-arm-end that are used to set the rear camber and toe.
The main bushings in the bar-cover may need to be replaced at the same time. Altogether a lot of work and best done only once: Bushings, Indexing, Alignment, Corner-balancing.
I have done it several times and is definately not as easy as some make it out to be; a certain amount of mechanical knowledge, and skill, is needed.
Get a Bentley; it explains the procedure with pix.

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Old 04-04-2006, 06:17 AM
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