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Michael Delaney wanna-be
 
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The dreaded burnt trunk light wiring

In a nutshell: Moronic bodyshop pinched the trunk light wire and then voila!....cooked the wires. Interior lights and related circuits (clock, horn, ) are inop. The car is driveable and I've been running it around for 6 months with no problems. I have a Bentley manual so tracing the circuits is not a prob...

Question:
Some wires are cooked so much that there is no insulation on them. When the trunk light wiring fries, is the interior lights/clock/horn circuits the only ones involved? My biggest fear is that other circuits might have been damaged in the harness. As we all know, it's practically impossible to get a hand in there. I've tried cutting apart the harness to inspect but it's difficult. I just don't want to have to remove everything in order to get in there....although if I have to I will.

Thanks for any and all replies!

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Last edited by Netspeed; 04-12-2006 at 09:14 AM..
Old 04-12-2006, 07:52 AM
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The trunk light is unfused along with the dash + lights.. It's powered from the light switch. Start there and install a 4w in line fuse.
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Ronin LB
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Old 04-12-2006, 12:53 PM
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So what are the odds that other wires were damaged? Does the cooking happen so fast that other wires aren't damaged?
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Old 04-12-2006, 02:44 PM
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I've not seen that circuit fried.
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Old 04-12-2006, 08:05 PM
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Why would you not hold "moronic bodyshop" responsible if responsible? Does not calculate.
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Old 04-12-2006, 11:08 PM
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Generally, the wire will be damaged from the point it got pinched, all the way back to the power source. Which other wires got damaged in the process will be hard to predict, as they will be the ones closest to the shorted one, and they will not have been run parallel to the damaged one, all the way through the harness. So there may be places on each wire that are damaged in sections, depending on how close they are to the shorted one.

It's a pain in the ass but maybe your best bet is to buy a used harness and replace it.

I have seen the trunk light harness burnt completely, to the point of no insulation remaining on the wire. Problems exist with the glove box light wiring too-everybody ought to take a look at whether or not the wiring for this light is close to the bulb. Other things to be concerned about include possible chafing of the power wires coming off of the battery positive terminal. Recently, I saw a car with a main battery cable short, near a fuel tank. It got hot enough to burn a hole through the inner fender metal and almost fried the fuel tank piping. I examined a couple small power wires on one of my cars last weekend and found several places where the insulation had chafed completely through, exposing the conductors. Not good.

JR
Old 04-13-2006, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
The trunk light is unfused along with the dash + lights.. It's powered from the light switch. Start there and install a 4w in line fuse.
Ron, when you say "start there" for a fuse installation, where is "there" exactly? Also, what's 4w? What amperage rating would be good here?

On the topic of installing fuses, another good precaution is the installation of a fuse in the front condenser blower circuit if your 911's got A/C.
Old 04-13-2006, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark Sides
Why would you not hold "moronic bodyshop" responsible if responsible? Does not calculate.
I got some free paint work out of it. No way would I want them to attempt a repair!
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Old 04-13-2006, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by javadog
I have seen the trunk light harness burnt completely, to the point of no insulation remaining on the wire...
JR
That's exactly what happened. It got so hot so fast that the wires cooked open. I agree with you....it looks like I'll have to pull everything out to get a good look at the harness.
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Old 04-13-2006, 06:47 AM
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look here , I still haven't done this, but need to --->

Dash lighting fuse installation

Wil
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Old 04-13-2006, 08:27 AM
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Thanks Wil! Great find!
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Old 04-13-2006, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1982911SCTarga
Ron, when you say "start there" for a fuse installation, where is "there" exactly? Also, what's 4w? What amperage rating would be good here?

I should have wrote 4amp although 3amp is perfect.

see Wil's foreward site above.

Also I solder connections.

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Old 04-13-2006, 11:26 AM
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