1973.5 911T Statue

jac1976 · 04-12-2006, 12:49 PM

Beginning to research the time, money, and effort required to get a 1973.5 911T running again. It ran well when it was garaged about 10 years ago with gas in the tank. Mechanically it was in great shape with no mods except pop-offs and 43K miles. Obviously this is a broad question, especially before breaking it down, but best case scenario having to only clean tank and clean/replace fuel components can someone give me a ballpark? Little League or Polo Grounds? Much thanks.

Dantilla · 04-12-2006, 12:53 PM

Put fresh gas and oil in it and see what happens.

Jim Sims · 04-12-2006, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dantilla
Put fresh gas and oil in it and see what happens.

Good way to possibly ruin the fuel pump, check valve and fuel distributor. Also a way to start a fire with rotten fuel lines.

If a critter has built a nest on the top of the engine or even inside one of the combustion chambers on top of a piston (I've seen this complete with a nest made of mud and straw) then just starting it up could cause overheating or mechanical mayhem.

I'd at least go to some trouble to see that the tank was cleaned out and add an additional filter before the fuel pump. First turn the engine over by hand after squirting some oil in through the spark plug holes.

Based on my experience restoring a running 73.5T: I estimate the low end of a fuel system restoration will be $800 including labor costs. If you're unlucky then up to $3000 with labor (replacing or rebuilding the fuel distributor, fuel pump, accumulator, CSV, throttle control valve, injectors, rubber portions of fuel lines, fuel filter modification (original fuel filters are NLA), cleaning or replacing the fuel tank (tank has a plastic baffle system), and replacing tank bung screen.

jac1976 · 04-12-2006, 04:30 PM

Jim
The $3K number is about what I was thinking. This is not a matter of "if I will do it" but "when I will do it" so it is nice to have an idea of what it may cost. I wasn't about to try to fire this thing after this long for fear of doing more harm. I appreciate your input.

Sunroof · 04-13-2006, 05:18 AM

I concur with Jim. His experience and knowledge with the 73.5T/CIS is admired and I often seek his advise.

Having just restored my CIS fuel system, my greatest problem was the rust in the fuel tank. The 1973.5T fuel tank is like no other and presently no reproductions are available. It appears it was unique only for that model. Its all in the interior baffle arrangment. A new factory tank available now from a dealer will run $800-$1,000. For that money its worth removing it (fairly simple procedure) after draining, and taking it to a place that refurbishes tanks or use POR products to do the work at home if your so inclined. Many on this board have done the home tank restoration with great success. Look up POR Products on the web for '
more info. It cost me less than $150 to have my tank "boiled", the inside coated with "redkote" at a local radiator shop and then coating the outside with POR 15 and Wurth coatings. After six months everything is holdng up fine. Seek sources on this board as many have found shops in the states that have done great work in that restoration process. Their is a large "tank bung screen" fitting in the bottom - center of the tank that you cannot miss. THIS MUST BE REMOVED before you have the tank restored. Replacing that very critical piece ($30 at the dealer) is essential for clean fuel delivery. Fuel must pass through this screen and often they are crapped up, especially after so many years idle. The fuel lines are fairly accessbile at the front and the end of the tunnel to the pump and return. Special high pressure fuel hoses must be used in the replacement as well as using new clamps. Not too pricey. I would opt for a rebuilt pump with a good warranty then a new one (figure $150+) with your old unit in trade. If you do the work yourself (injectors, lines, filters, etc) you will save a bundle. If the airbox is sound, the rubber on t he intake runners okay and the warm up regulator and fuel distributor not gummed up too bad, you should be fine. If however, you have to replace these costly components figure for the WUR (rebuilt $250+) and the fuel distributor (rebuilt $500 to $1500 depending on who does the rebuilding). Is it worth it? Well, restoring an older Porsche can be a huge money pit. But consider that the selling price of a 1973.5T according to the latest Excellence Magazine market survey ranges between $16,900 for a good example to over $20,000 for an excellent example. The 73.5T models have been advertised on Pelican in the low to mid twenties. These models will only continue to appreciate in my view, so restoration of the fuel system if all else is good-excellent may well be worth your while. Their is a wealth of information on this board, in Waynes 101 Project book, the Haynes Repair manual and local PCA sources. Consider at this point the issue of rust, body damage, interior and mechanicals. If your handy and this is your passion THEN GO FOR IT................"Porsche, their is no substitute".

Best of luck

Bob
73.5T

jac1976 · 04-13-2006, 07:48 AM

Bob
Thanks for the input. I have read posts where people have had great success with the POR15. Seems there is some concern over damage to the plastic baffles during cleaning/restoration? As far as the car itself, my dad bought the car from the original owner in 1973 with obviously little mileage. Suffice to say this Pcar will always be worth it to me. Having been read bedtime stories from Panorama as a child, I have found this board very informative and entertaining over the past few years and am now beginning to post my own questions in preparation for rousing my car. Thanks again.

Sunroof · 04-13-2006, 11:50 AM

I have to wonder if that baffle is really plastic! When I took my fuel level unit out I looked inside with a mirror and flashlight and noted the baffle was metal (looked like an aircraft wing support member). The key to the tank are the two lines coming off the rear (feed to pump and return), whatever you do (POR remedy or sent out for restoration), these lines require that compressed air is blown in to clear the fuel pick up ring inside the tank. Another laborious task is the removal of the coating on the exterior of the tank. That took me many hours to get down to bare metal. I used a solvent (paint remover), scraper and in the tight corners my dremel drill. Once its down to bare metal a coating of POR 15 will seal it; however to maintain OEM or factory appearance the Wurth silver/gray spray coating (two - three cans) makes a great finish.

Hope this helps

Bob

Jim Sims · 04-13-2006, 12:19 PM

I need the Greatest Minds of the Planet on this 73.5 issue.