Oil Dispensing???? How do you do it?

[JackMan]

Like most of us, I change my own oil. I'm pretty clean and neat when I do this procedure.

But here's the rub, how do you get your new oil into the oil tube/neck? It's inevitable that you'll spill a drop or two. Sometimes more.

I use one of those big black funnels. If I pour too fast it backs up the funnel and will pour onto the engine, too slow and your back is going into spasm.

Hints?

[Rick V]

I have the same basic long necked funell. I cut the end of the funell so the opening is larger. The only problem is putting it in too fast and having it rol out of the filler tube. but it doesn't back up the funell.

[Quicksilver]

I always pour from the plastic 1 quart container that the oil comes in. I never have a problem with spilling a drop. I hold the bottle up against the filler tube sideways and flip the bottle up so it is down in the tube with one motion. As it is draining I turn it so the narrow flat side (that ends right at the opening) is at the bottom so everything can drain out.

I have tried a funnel but you always end up with a messy funnel to clean when you are done. If you want to use a funnel remember that you need to wash it so it won't collect dust that will be introduced into the engine next time you use it.

[dentist90]

I have less trouble putting the oil in... it's getting the old oil filter out without it dripping too much. I will put a bunch of paper towel under the oil filter before I start spinning it off. I like to put 500mL (1/2 quart) into the new filter before installing... that's where it can get messy if the threads don't catch right away. Putting oil into the filter before installing it may not be such a big issue with a dry sump with 12 quarts in it. it's just a habit I picked up with oil changes on conventional engines.

[fireant911]

About an hour before I start to refill the oil I fill up the kitchen sink with hot water. I then place two five quart containers of oil (I use Mobil 1 15W-50) in this hot water. Then I place a pan of water on the stove and bring it to a boil. Every 15 minutes or so I drain some of the water out and replace it with the boiling water. The oil pours smoothly and does not fill up to the top of the funnel (I guess it could if I poured it that fast). This greatly speeds up the oil filling as the stuff at ambient temperature pours way slow.

[S2GART]

I have a galvanized steel funnel with a "goose neck". I put the "neck" portion down inside and bend the funnel towards the right to clear the hood.

[Grady Clay]

The auto part stores have a little valve/extension that screw on an oil container. The body rotates 90° to open and close the valve. It is a 79¢ plastic piece that is worth its weight in gold. I store it in a Ziploc with a few folded paper towels.

I keep a shop towel under everything as I go in and out of the engine compartment.

Oil filters are another beast. The only way is to have shop towels under the filter.

No drips, no runs, no errors.


My other technique is to squeeze the bottle slightly to get the oil up close to the opening. I then put my thumb over the opening and reposition my grip to not squeeze the bottle. Position the bottle in the oil fill opening and slide your thumb off. Because there is low pressure in the bottle you can get your thumb out of the way before the oil starts draining.

Remember to let them drain completely. I recap the bottles, squeezing out some air and send them to the recycler.


Some of the important safety checks are:

Have everything laid out in advance. Tools, oil, parts, etc.

Never put something on half. Screw the drain plug in and tighten all in one operation. Remove and replace the oil filter all in one operation. I had a mechanic who forgot to install the filter and started the 911 to warm and check the oil. Talk about Exxon Valdez! He never did that again.

Don’t dispose of the drain oil until everything is finished. There may be a lost part in there.

Line up the full oil bottles and the empties. You can tell them apart because the empties are squished.

Triple check everything.

Best,
Grady

[randywebb]

if oil is going to be out of the engine for a while - say you're waiting on parts - then put tape over the ign. switch

[porschenut]

And always use brand new seals on your drain plugs.

[Grady Clay]

Randy,

I agree with the tape and a big sign on the steering wheel but disabling the engine is better. Many times you have to move the 911 and need to unlock the steering – key in switch. Take the battery ground strap(s) loose and put a sign there.

Best,
Grady

[JackMan]

Good tips, thanks. Anymore?

[randywebb]

Take the battery ground strap(s) loose and put a sign there.

- yes, that is better -- tape is quicker if it's only a few days I suppose. Wiating for parts causing Time Dilation, just like Einstein said...

[Grady Clay]

Ah, yes

Time dilation is (in this case) the especially relative
perceived time waiting for your parts to arrive even
though the Pelican shipping staff Messers Al Michelson
and Ed Morley are working at the frenetic pace close to c.

y = 1/sqrt(1-v^2/c^2)

Wayne E. and Tom L. (below) are working on length contraction
(1/y) so an unlimited number of parts can be shipped free
in a small box.
I understand there is some problem with the mass.




Best,
Grady