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Creaking sound from right front shock
this morning i started getting this horrible creaking sound when the car would move up or down at all. Once I was able to park my car i rocked it back and forth and determined that it was coming from the right front. I rocked it and ever rock reproduced the creak. I got down near the front right wheel and hear it coming from that directions, which sounded like the shock area. I rocked again and put my hand on the shock and could "feel" the creak with my hand on the tube.
Anybody have any idea what I should be looking for?
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1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red |
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IN colder weather it's not unusual for the rubber bushings to creak like mad... I like to spray some WD-40 on them one at a time to find the offending bushing, then lube it with some proper grease.
The anti-roll bar bushings are frequent culprits because they are not sealed. Also check the camber plate bushing and a-arm bushings. Failing that I suppose a shock could be going bad, but this usally sounds like a "squish" rather than a "squeek"
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Chris ---------------------------------------------- 1996 993 RS Replica 2023 KTM 890 Adventure R 1971 Norton 750 Commando Alcon Brake Kits |
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Wont be able to check these pieces till tonight, but with the hood up the creaking sound like its comming from the fender well not from above. The wierd thing is its not that cold out right now - its like 69 degrees F. And its been colder and I've had no noises. But I'll certainly look into these possible culprits. BTW, what it the torque of the top nut suppose to be on the strut?
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1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red |
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My ball joints made creaking noises before I replaced them.
80NM with new locking tab. (top nut)
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78SC coupe, Silver Metallic |
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ok, I got below the car and took a look.
When I pull down on the "A" arm and let it ease up the squeek/creek can be heard and you can feel it through the torsion bar tube. Any thoughts?
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BTDT, TT
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Tom Tweed Early S Registry #257 R Gruppe #232 Rennlist Founding Member #990416-1164 Driving Porsches since 1964 |
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Try some silicone spray lube on the rubber bushings on the a-arm/ torsion bar mounts.
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I tried shoot lithium spray on them but I dont see how its going to penetrate deep enough to do any good.
On a related note, I also noiticed somthing else while I was looking around under there, lets see if i can explain this: where the torsion bar adjustment screw goes thru the the crossmember subframe assembly there is a small hole for the screw to go through in the subframe. The holes is about 1/8" away from the edge of the crossmember at its closest point. This thin piece of metal of the crossmember is bent and cracked. If someone could post a picture of it I could point it out much easier. My question is how dangerous is this situation?
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The silicone spray is runny. It wicks in a little better into crevices as water does around the mounts.
That cracked piece you describe probably won't hurt. It might have been caused by a bad decision in jacking the car up or a stone hit. The silicone is a stopgap measure. Cheap to try though.
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have a look at the SWAY BAR bushings on the A Arm. Spray a bit of lube on that as it is very accessable. If it stops squueking you have your culprit. These generally squeek if the bushing is worn and the swaybar is rubbing on the mount.
If you can, take a picture of the crack you mention and repost. Any cracks are not good. I think that "adjustment" screw you mention is the ride height adjuster.
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Quote:
Im pretty sure its the torsion bar riding on the a-arm tube. I can FEEL the creaking with my hand on the "A" Arm. That and the sound isn't coming from a specific area, like its radiating from the tube in all directions. Im going to look for a post with a pic.
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1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red Last edited by redcoupe86; 02-06-2006 at 07:20 PM.. |
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here is a picture I found. The crack is shown in the circled area.
My question is can it be repaired. It seems like a pretty easy repair. ![]()
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I've realized that if I pull down on the a-arm i get the squeek, but if I push up on the a-arm there is no sound. If Im understanding about how the torsion bar rubs on the tube, could this reason for pulling causing the sound be b/c the centerline of the torsion bar is being lowered thereby causing the bar to rub against the tube. I've been reading about this welding of the cap fix, I might have to see if this works. To test the theory youre suppose to put a washer or somthing under the adjustment cap raising the centerline. What I cant figure out is how I should exactly go about slipping somthing under the cap. Any suggestions?
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What Tom said. It sounds like the bushes are worn exessively so that the t/bar is in contact with the housing - that may have caused the crack?
Its probably ok to drive but i would advise against it! ![]()
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Well, if for no other reason than it sounds as though you are not riding on the bushes!
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Get some silicone. I have 220K on my car and my fronts are fine. Turn the wheels lock to lock to see if you get creaking. As for the crack- are you tracking the car? Your cross member looks good. The PO ran over road debris most likely. Camp stove is my guess.
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My concern is what, if any problems can this lead to. And if I want to get it welded, what kind of metal is it? [/B][/QUOTE]
Glad you explained. It's made of aluminum. If your cap/screw is back 1/8" you might want to get the chassis checked out. I'm not sure if you can slide the a-arm assembly fore and aft to compensate. Others will have to pitch in. Driving wise- Worn tires, vibration, shimmying, pulling to one side. Worn out GM experience in a fine German auto. If adjusting cap falls off then your tire will go up into your wheel well and mess up your day (could take you out ). That's like a torsion bar breaking.
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My car drives strait and doesn't pull under accleration or braking. What should I have them check specifically?
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