I wouldn't worry that it does not spin on as long as it's not impacting the housing. When you got hot exhaust in there it'll spin. While everything is out this would be a good time to relocate the thermotime switch to the passenger side. You'll see why after the motor is back in and your fitting the turbo inlet pipe.

tsuter
Just did that relocation (yup, I read your posts religiously). Luckily, my covers have a fitting on both R and L sides. My TT switch was cracked, and the wires were fried. I fixed the wiring, but need to test the TT switch. Could you verify that it's NO, and when it warms up, goes closed to short the supplemental fuel valve (I think thats how it works)?

Gotta go to the Home Depot and get some little fittings for the boost controller and the boost gauge. I bought the $40 gauge in lieu of the $230 model. The el cheapo Stewart Warner only gives you enough tubing to do a Chevrolet, a bit short on the 911.

Sure can change the CIS manifolds pretty quick while the engine is out.

Heres my intercooler:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155425558.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155425598.jpg

The thermotime switch provides the ground for the CSV hence my understanding is that it is closed when cold and open when hot. So I would say it is an NC switch when cold and an NO switch when hot. But I don't have the electrical diagram handy.

edit: but if it works as a short for the CSV then it would be the opposite.... NO cold and NC hot. Sorry..........

tsuter, I just read up on the wiring...you are correct NO cold and NC hot. Thanks!
I think the way it was is that it either never worked, or injected fuel all the time on the CSV. I will verify its operation when I get the thing running via the trusty jumper wire.
Pat

Yup thats what I am currently running on mine

Would I want the vacuum line to the distributor below (downstream) of the throttle butterfly?

And, I checked my TT switch. I have continuity when cold, so it's NC cold, but I still have to get some voltage and see just what the heck it's really supposed to do. Bentley says its NC cold. Maybe that's why the CIS ran rich all the time.

And, do I really need the auxiliary air valve?

Progress is sometimes slow. I have to rethink just about every step along the way, as this is all new to me, no matter how many times I read and reread the available stuff on this board. Every step has some glitch in it, some big, some little. Never have the right size or quantity of pipe fittings, or tubing, or hose. Totally hacked the left side engine tin to clear the turbo. On and on. I hope the AAV has a check in it, as I don't see what will keep it from bypassing air on boost transition.

Progress:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155515300.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155515366.jpg

I sure hope this water injector system I'm putting in works. Works pretty well on 600 HP supercharged Corvettes.

Pat

It will be fine. Don't take it out. It won't pass air under boost.

930 have them in there so as thad says don't worry

Pat, is your car butterscotch color? It looks like the original color of my '79 SC before it got a total respray of GP white. If you have a pic, I would like to see what your car looks like just out of curiousity.

Tim, yeah, it's the butterscotch Porsche, as my girls call it. It's Kashmir Beige. I have some pictures on the work computer, which won't boot at the moment. ARRRGGHHH

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155562949.jpg

Well, I got about as far as I can for now. The car ain't gonna make it to Watkins Glen for Friday AM, so I am turning my attention to prepping the 968 for the track.

I have most of the fuel and vacuum lines cobbled together, think I have it pretty figured out. Next week I can sit back and look it over before I put it back in the car, and hope it starts, doesn't make any bad noises, and makes boost.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155604485.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155604626.jpg

You probably got all this but make sure that both EGR nipples on the Throttle Body get capped or you'll have a nasty leak. Also the decel valve fitting needs a cap. You won't be hooking it back up. Looks like only one EGR is capped in the upper pic.

Pat, what did you do about your dist advance/retard hose. Did you leave it off and set the timing at 6k rpm to make sure you have good total advance ? Or is the transition from vaccum to boost ok with it ?
I dont recall what I did when I had my BAE kit. But i think I would have left the distributor weights to do the job alone.


Kurt Williams

tsuter, thanks. You are correct, I need two more caps. I took the distributor feed from the old air pump port below the TB. I moved some stuff around, but it seems to make sense. I am unsure of the necessity of the thermal valve, as mine was capped originally. I had my decel valved neutered before; not a real nice feature at the track.

Where do you vent your oil tank? I really don't want to vent it back to the airbox. I'm thinking of a vent for crankcase and tank together into a little breather box, like on a track car. I don't see pressure equalization as a problem. I do know that the airbox and everything downstream was well oiled after years of use.

Pat

Pat, the thermovalve it there to restrict vaccum to the distributor until the engine is warm. It has an internal coil that heats up and opens with time. In your case I would say just eliminate it.
BTW THE ENGINE LOOKS GREAT ! NICE WORK!

Kurt Williams

I vented right back to the airbox. No big deal...passenger side. See the big clamp in pic. Just don't overfill a lot. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155607326.jpg

Kurt:
I have the stock dist in there, no recurve at this time. I am installing a water injection system, which is acually pretty slick. I feel it will allow me to run the same settings I'm running now, the stock settings.
Plus, I have a wideband meter going in, so I will be able to see what kind of AFR I have at different timing. I generally use the farmer method-advance it til it detonates, and then back it off a few degrees, but that may not apply here too well. But, I did leave the hose on, relocated. I'll have to verify the vacuum operation when I get it running. I also have a boost controller, and an adjustable PE switch for the water injector, so I'll have a lot of variables to play around wih til I find the right setup.

Pat

Kurt:
Thanks for the compliment. I'm reserving judgement until I hear it run.
Pat

I just wanted to say keep up the good work, and that I soon will be getting my car back together, I heard from my builder that my engine is done "Woo hooo"..

David:
It will be good to see another 914 off of jackstands!
Pat

The car is going off to the body shop next week, I can tinker on the engine until I get it back. The turn around for the paint should be quick as they have already finished the doors, lids, rockers and valance. I bartered a paint job by doing a few custom airbrush jobs on a Harley and Mini for them.
I will have some problems as you are having, if I threw my old intake on it I would be good to go, but I am putting on a 930 intake with the Euro fuel head and I am sure I will have a time trying to figure out the WUR and vacuum lines also.

Well, after a weeks hiatus consisting of prepping the 968 for the Glen, and a three day DE, I have resumed this little project. Hoping to get it in by this weekend, and shakedown before the next two WG DEs.

Sure would have been easier to put carbs on it, but where's the challenge in that?

Pat

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1156466153.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1156466191.jpg

Nice job Pat it looks like your good to go.I started putting my engine back together last night, Im not sure if the 930 intake is going to fit in the 914 any better than the SC intake, the SC intake has already been plumbed in before and I know it works, the 930 intake may be more trouble than its worth. I will head out to the garage this morning and play around with it pictures to follow.

Just another Saturday in the garage...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1156652120.jpg


Maybe tomorrow I can get it to run.

Oh my, Big smiles all around.

He he, cool.... he he. :)
Boost is gud.

I'm still in the apprehensive phase, until I can turn that key and hear it run. Gotta finish the boost controller, boost gauge, and the water injection system wiring, put the oil cooler and lines back in. Maybe tonight.

If all goes well, I'll have some dyno sheets by the end of the week. The plan is to have it ready for the track by mid-September.

Here is a picture of my engine this morning, the Bae bonnet and some chrome
pipe is all thats going to be left. I need to get a few things to make it work.I am
still going to hook up the fuel enrichment injector and will use it if needed. The throttle arm is different and I will need to make up something or find a 930 throttle plate and lever. I wont know how to route the plumbing until it's in the car.

The car is way behind schedule it is completely apart waiting for new paint.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1156690170.jpg

I was so apprehensive I had someone else start it for me while I stood in the back and watched

Chap
That setup is the cats a$$. Now, where are you going to put the intercooler?
Pat

Same place, in the trunk.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1156694932.jpg

When I do a turbocharger or supercharger install (4 so far) I like to start out with only a little boost, then gradually increase the levels while I monitor A/F ratio and temps etc.
That way if anything goes wrong I can catch it before it melts something.
YMMV.

Prudent advice, Sammy. I'm going to start at 4 PSI and take it from there. I did put in a good A/F meter, and I'm going to dangle some type K thermocouples in the compressor outlet to see what kind of temp rises I get.

I still can't believe Nick did this install in a parking lot. I'm ready to cut the flange off the Flowmaster and weld up a cherry bomb to it. What a POS