BAE Turbo Install, Part 1
 

Well, the little 3.0 is leaking like a sieve anyway, so I guess now is as good a time as any to freshen the engine and put in the much traveled BAE turbo kit.

Tested the tubing to make sure it will fit:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1147914024.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1147914086.jpg


Gotta remove the engine before one can rebuild it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1147914157.jpg

I'll work on getting it apart tomorrow, then its off to the machine shop.

Thanks for the inspiration to, among others, tsuter, imchappy, air-cool-me, pjv911 and all of you low budget turbo guys, and to everyone who said "don't do it".

Pat

You will love the boost, in the same way a junkie loves crack. ;)

Yeah, I know I will. Plus, I'm tired of getting overpowered on the faster tracks. Please forgive me for omitting your name in the above post, as you are one of the main BAE boosters here.

Way to go Pat were here if you need us.

Do you think I was losing a bit of oil?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148238221.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148238266.jpg

It's amazing how disarray comes with engine removal and disassembly...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148238329.jpg

Now that's a Man's man's garage!;)

Outstanding!!! Pump it up!!

The current plan is to rebuild the 3.0, and make it as bulletproof as I can within reason. I don't have any broken head studs (on the right side, at least), and I do have Nikasil cylinders. As soon as I get the rest apart, I'll check the wear and see where I am with the wear limits. I'd like to go with the original stuff, for cost reasons, plus it keeps with the intent of the original BAE design. Thankfully, there is lots of BAE info thanks to you turbo guys, such that I don't have to reinvent the wheel on this installation.

Todays question is regarding camshafts. I can easily stick with the SC cams, or go with something to take advantage of the compressor. I was looking over an Elgin spec, and they have a slightly modded profile which they say will work very well in this sort of application. Opinions???

Special thanks to the helper, just turned ten. She is quick with the Barbie jeep, just can't reach the handlebars and ground on the Dyna just yet.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148248642.jpg

thanks for the mention... !! good luck~!

feel free to give me a call(if you still have my number) if you have any questions.

speaking of much traveled... i ran into the owner before me and hes also a pelicanite!

Nick-It's good to keep this stuff in the family...

So, when I pulled the pistons out tonight, I foud that someone had marked the piston with numbers to match the cylinders, with an engraver. Somehow I doubt it was the factory that did that, so I will assume the engine was "rebuilt" before. The way that thing leaks, I can only say that the "rebuilder" did a somewhat hack job. He left the Dilavar studs on the exhausts. The pistons and cylinders look pretty good however.
Pat

Well, I got the CIS apart, and when I finally cleaned all the crud off the airbox, I figured I'd take it apart. The top and bottom sections of the plastic box (That is, the filter section, and the manifold attachment section, not the filter lid) won't come apart with a reasonable amount of force. So, I left them as is. Upon examination, I have found that there are big runs of dried epoxy at the joint, as though someone had GLUED THE BOX TOGETHER. I suspect that the facory would have done a neater job of this. So, I have concluded that the seam may have ruptured once, precipitating the install of the popoff valve.

Since I have never seen a "blown up" air box, anyone care to enlighten me as to what that would look like?

Anyway, I'm going to get a little fish scale, and see how much force it takes to raise the popoff off its seat. Maybe I can find a stiffer spring, if necessary.

Pat

The top and bottom half are glued together and I don't think they are intended to come apart. A "blown" airbox can manifest in many ways including just a big irregular hole in the lower half side.

The pop valve will need to come out and the hole repaired or be completley glued shut as you will not be able to backload it with the 8-10psi needed for it not to open and leak under boost.

Thanks, tsuter. I guess the factory built that box on a Friday during Oktoberfest.
I was toying with the idea of getting a different spring, kind of like in a mousetrap. I guess I'd need a spring like from a NYC rattrap...they're rated for bigger rats down there.

Here's an attempt that didn't work......
Pretty ghetto.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148856042.jpg

Yeah, I saw that in one of these threads. Nice workmanship.
http://www.isckc.com/torsion.htm

So, if I can find a torsion spring which will release before the box blows up...all I have to do is figure out the reversion pressure wave magnitude, which is some fraction of cylinder pressure...

Anyone have a link to the thread about mounting the turbo in the fender area rather than in the back? I'd like to know why not.

I'm glad you posted this link on my CIS thread as I have 'BOOST' on the brain right now. Do you have a pic that shows the turbo mount and what type of turbo will you be running?

Have you considered build your own plenum out of aluminum and incorporating the existing cis parts? I've seen some threads that have pics of air-boxes that reposition the throttle body to achieve better airflow in a turbo situation.

I'm probably preaching to the choir but I recently picked up a book called Maximum Boost and it really got the juices flowing.
There's a turbo system in my future somewhere!

So much for my early morning "cross threading":D have a great memorial day!
Mark

Mark:
Do a search on BAE; lots of stuff. This link is the highlight:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90065&highlight=bae+tur bo

Many good pictures in there, and tons of info. I have a Rajay T04B, which came with the old BAE kit.

And, yes, I am thinking about another aluminum airbox, which I will make up, unless I can find one already built. That may have to wait for the winter tweaking. My goal right now is to build the engine as bulletproof as possible, and get the turbo running in its current semi original BAE state.

Pat

This is a great thread. Someone made quick comment about not placing the turbo in the fender area. I would like to know why not? I could remove some of the sheetmetal to place intake pipes there. Ijust want enough room in back for cat and muffler to exit the right side. Any thoughts?

This morning i finally decided to get off my butt and re-install the BAE turbo after getting the car smogged.
3 hours later (1 hour spent trying to remember where I put all the parts) I took it for a spin, wow. I forgot how good it feels.
The wide band O2 sensor and LM-1 is doing it's job. It's around stoich until i stomp on it, then it goes to 12 to 1 at WOT. Just where I want it.
Now to get cleaned up and go boost some more ;)