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Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,563
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Replacing Brake Light Switch...
I finally resolved my dodgey brake light switch today
 Previously, I had to apply a fair amount of pressure on my brake pedal in order to make the brake lights activate. This was quite stressful in peak hour traffic, especially in wet conditions! I had a couple of near misses, so I finally decided to pull my finger out and do something about it  Anyway, as the pic below shows, the switch to the far back of the Master Cylinder is the brake light switch. The Switch at the front is the Handbrake light switch. It was a mega PITA to actually get a 22mm spanner to the back switch as there isn't much room there  However, I finally got the old one out and quickly had the spare ready to screw in place. Very little brake fluid was lost during the transition  Luckily, I didn't have to replace the Handbrake Switch as I can't imagine doing that with that cylindrical thing right in front of it with those hard lines  Anyway, just thought I'd share 
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
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09-25-2005, 12:49 AM
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I don't know anything about a hand brake switch, I was told they are both for the brake lights, you get an extra one in case of a failure.
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87 Carerra Coupe 04 GMC Yukon 07 Mazda 3 00 GMC Sierra |
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09-25-2005, 06:55 AM
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Oh, I'm sure I read somewhere that the second switch is for the handbrake. Could be wrong.
Either way, replacing the rear switch alone fixed my brake light issue 
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
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09-27-2005, 06:57 PM
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The hand brake is a cable and has nothing to do with the hydralic system. You might be using one of the two switches for the brake lights, it would be a good idea to replace the other one also.
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87 Carerra Coupe 04 GMC Yukon 07 Mazda 3 00 GMC Sierra |
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09-29-2005, 03:52 AM
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Posts: 35
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did you have to bleed the brakes ?
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05-29-2006, 09:37 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 7,286
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None of those are hand brake switch. They are both the pedal brake light witches. Most people said either one good, your brake light is good to go, but for me it's diff. When I replaced one, my brake light still didn't work, soon the second one came in, all my brake light work great.
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Fat butt 911, 1987 |
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05-29-2006, 03:20 PM
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Make Bruins Great Again
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Your system uses two switches as a safety backup. This way if one switch fails you still have brake lights. It is wise to replace both at the same time so that you don't find out that your one good switch failed by having a soccer mom on her cell phone running into the back of your car.
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-------------------------------------- Joe See Porsche run. Run, Porsche, Run: `87 911 Carrera |
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05-29-2006, 07:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
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thanks to everyone who helped me I have new switches on order
rgds Mike |
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05-30-2006, 03:33 AM
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Max
