How to check ball join?

[rnln]

911s55,
No clunks (nor snapping) over the pump. I guess because I go very slow over pumps. Or maybe this sond only produced when suspension is complressed on one side and not the other which going over a pump will compress both side equally?

If I drive on the road at normal speed or fast on freeway, I will hear this snapping sound even
slightly up the grove. The sound will be on either side (left or right) according to the grove.
Yes, I did try that turning steering wheel test and sometimes I do hear it, sometimes I don't. Most of the time I don't. Many times testing it this way, I decided the sound won't be produced by turning steering wheel without moving the wheel.

1 question, do you know if the steering coupler is bad, at which point the sound will produce? Suspension compressed, released, or when turning only? Do you know how/where can I check this coupler on an 87?

[Nine9six]

Originally Posted by C4 Pazzo

It sounds like the gland nut that holds the strut insert in place might have come loose. When that happens, you'll hear a load clank or knocking sound when the suspension is compressed and released. You need to remove the dust cover to check it. If it is loose, you can put some blue loctite on the threads and then use a pipe wrench to tighten the nut securely. Do a search on "gland nut" for more detailed instructions. Given the age of the inserts, you might want to just replace them while you have things apart.

This is an excellent possibility...I didnt know what to call the brass wiper/seal, but I know first hand that this is a very real possibility. Removing the strut from its top location will enable you to pull the dust cover and see if the brass wiper/seal is loose.
Hope this helps

[rnln]

I plan on checking the gland nuts and everything else around there, again, this weekends. Do I really have to take the top nut off and pull the strut out to lift the dust cover up enough to view the gland nut?

Why do you call it the "wiper/seal"? Do you mean the nut screwing into the shock (housing) to hold the strut in the shock, or there is anything else I don't know yet?

[Nine9six]

Originally Posted by rnln

I plan on checking the gland nuts and everything else around there, again, this weekends. Do I really have to take the top nut off and pull the strut out to lift the dust cover up enough to view the gland nut?

Why do you call it the "wiper/seal"? Do you mean the nut screwing into the shock (housing) to hold the strut in the shock, or there is anything else I don't know yet?

When I installed Bilstein struts into my Boge housings, the nut that holds the strut into the housing also has a wiper/seal. Come to find out I failed to tighten the gland nut, and it produced the same sound you are describing.
And yes... you do have to remove the top nut and pull the strut out to lift the dust cover up enough to view the gland nut.
Doing this will not affect your alignment.

[rnln]

... just the same as replacing the strut then. Why not pull the strut off to know what I am having. Thanks Nine9six

[jmohn]

You may want to check the condition of the "I" shaped cross-member that carries the steering rack - mine had a fracture in it that made a sound very similar to your description.

Jerry M
'78 SC

[rnln]

Jerry,
will do. thanks. Maybe I ask where proximately your fracture located?

[jmohn]

Originally Posted by rnln

Jerry,
will do. thanks. Maybe I ask where proximately your fracture located?

The fracture in mine was right through one of the bolt holes (driver's side) used for connecting the steering rack. Mine was due to road debris that I couldn't dodge (due to traffic). I looked it over underneath and thought all was well (except for a minor scrape on the fuel tank) then a couple days later I started hearing a sort of squeak/click. It was most pronounced when turning and hitting a bump, such as at intersections or in-drives. It took me several times under the car to finally find the problem. I got lucky and bought a good used one from a fellow Pelican, only took a weekend to swap it out (working part-time), not that hard a job, but miserable doing it laying under the car; it would be pretty simple with a lift.

Good luck,

Jerry M
'78 SC

[rnln]

I had similar crack but only on the thin/small piece (aluminum) to block the adjuster bolt, not accross the bar. I had it welded already. But I will check the whole bar again.
Thanks.