Need advice on AC

[Barrpete]

OK it hit 100 degrees here in Tucson yesterday and I have at least 3 more months of this to look forward to.

My AC gave up the ghost and now it's decision time.

From what I can tell the compressor shaft seals are almost certainly shot. Lots of oil on decklid. There's an article in the tech section on rebuilding the Nippondenso condensor which appears to be a fairly simple job assuming I can find the seals. On the other hand a new Sanden can be for about $300. Is it worth rebuilding the Nippondenso or should I just switch to the Sanden & be done with it.

By the way I'm running R-12 & will probably stick with it.

[rfuerst911sc]

I don't have first hand experience with the Nipo but I am running the Sanden in my car and like it, very little RPM drop when I switch on the AC and it is very quiet.

[kuehl]

Success in "rebuilding" the Nippondenso will depend upon:
The condition of the pistons, bores and swash plate. Since the Nippon does not have rings on the pistons or sleeves in the bores, what you see is what you get; if you have scratches or excessive wear it is not worth "rebuilding" (or what we really mean "repairing").

You are limited in your repair to: replacing the nose seal assembly and case o-rings and maybe the shaft bearing and swash plate bearings.

If the nose seal is throwing oil you have to consider if this is because:
A) The system had a "hic-cup"; meaning a one time high side overpressure situation that allowed oil and gas to vent out,
B) The system is running at excessively high pressures for various reasons,
C) The shaft-seal contact area or surface is rusted or pitted, or the carbon bearing is shot

Figure you will spend, if you are equipped to rock & roll with a repair, at least 3 hours to remove, clean, disassemble, clean R&R subcomponents, re-assemble and replace the current unit.

If you are running a Nippon we would assume you have a 84-89 3.2 (or euro turbo). The Sanden will not simply "bolt on". The mounts are different so you will need an adapter plate, and the high side hose fitting for the stock Nippon is typically a 45 deg for non-turbo; you have to consider if hose will angle properly. A "new" Nippon without a clutch ranges usually ranges from $399-499.00 and with a clutch from $499 and up. Depending upon the condition of your clutch assembly and bearing in the pulley, you may or maynot have to replace the clutch. And you will need a new drier for safe measure, a few o-rings for the hose connections and about 6 oz of ac compressor oil (typically and ester works great for either R12 or R134a).

[Dixie]

Why spend $30.00 for a set of seals and shipping? Why spend $300.00+ for a rebuilt “Porsche” compressor? What if I said you can buy a remanufactured Nippondenso 10P15C compressor for only $95.00 from an e-bay storefront?

You see, lots of cars use this compressor. Just order a compressor for a Ford, Honda, Acura, or other! (My preference is to order a compressor for a Ford.) Go ahead and do a bit of searching. I bet you'll find a remanufactured one for a less than $100.00. Then all you have to do is swap your clutch, suction and discharge tubes onto it, and you're good-to-go! Warrantee and all!

[robhamster]

I purchased one of the Sanden compressors and have not looked back. It was an easy retrofit and worked far better than the Nippo ever did, with much less loss of HP. If our host does not offer one, others do.

[Barrpete]

Kuehl,

That's exactly what I was wondering. That if after replacing all the seals I would still have a worn out comressor with new seals. I haven't even started to check for hose leaks yet so it's possible the high side hose (and others) could need replacing as well. If that's the case I've got lots of work ahead.

Capt. Carrera,

If everything else checks out, ebay is probably the way to go.

Thanks for all the help guys, I think I'll skip trying the repair option.

[oneblueyedog]

I'm running a Seiko Sekki from Scott's Independent. I replaced all of the hoses and put in an air vent below. Been hitting the upper 90's this last week and the car cools off to where I can set it to mid speed on the fan. This is highway use though. In city it's, fan full blast. R12.

[charleskieffner]

since i endure the same hell if not hotter than you........i kinda have some wisdom on this. look at your a/c just like the plumbing on your house. ie. fix one leak and expect more. mine started with a/c line cut by previous mech. then evap, then condensor,then compressor, all new o-ring seals and of course dryer bottle. when it was all sorted out by patrick motorsports we blow 37 degrees. on older RSR that was their entry at TUCSON COUNTRY CLUB PCA CONCOURS..............it blew 32 degrees and there was frost building up on vent plastic. saw this w/my own eyes. they know how to make your a/c work!!!! i have endured 48 of these summers(native), and dont plan on being miserable in my toy! good luck.

[kuehl]

True and not true. There are different versions of the 10P15C and as I recall the mounting hole bores are different for the "standard" Ford.

You can pay anywhere from $5.00 (a joke) to $700.00 for a rebuilt 10P15C, the question is "who" rebuilt it and "what" did they do to "rebuild it". If you are buying a "rebuild" go by Reputation first and price second. A warranty does not mean anything if you have to R&R the job twice.

Originally posted by Capt. Carrera
Why spend $30.00 for a set of seals and shipping? Why spend $300.00+ for a rebuilt “Porsche” compressor? What if I said you can buy a remanufactured Nippondenso 10P15C compressor for only $95.00 from an e-bay storefront?

You see, lots of cars use this compressor. Just order a compressor for a Ford, Honda, Acura, or other! (My preference is to order a compressor for a Ford.) Go ahead and do a bit of searching. I bet you'll find a remanufactured one for a less than $100.00. Then all you have to do is swap your clutch, suction and discharge tubes onto it, and you're good-to-go! Warrantee and all!