Steering wheel nut - unable to remove. HELP!

[CharlesJones]

Hi All,

I'm in the process of fitting an aftermarket steering wheel to my '84 Carrera, but can't for the life of me get the nut off which holds the existing stock steering wheel to the steering column. I've soaked it for a few days in WD-40, and even fitted a crook-lock to the wheel to get more leverage against the wrench on the nut, but it just won't budge. I've had my girlfriend swing on the crook-lock whilst I swung on the wrench, but still it won't budge!

Have any of you guys got any ideas for other ways I might try to tackle this troublesome nut? Its recessed into the steering wheel hub, so its not like I can heat it with a blow torch or anything. I'm stumped for ideas!

Cheers.

[jevvy]

How depressing - bet you are dying to get the new wheel on.

Mine was on tight too and I just kept finding larger and larger levers to use to undo it - I think I ended up with a bar through the spokes on the wheel and resting against the floor and then I used a longer breaker bar on the nut, once its goes its really easy so watc you dont do a somersault when it does!

Good luck

PS - wrestlin nuts with yr mrs holding the other lever is just too bouncy to crack it loose, you need to be pushing against something more solid - does that make sense?

PPS - no "nuts" or "pushing against something more solid" jokes please

[charleskieffner]

small I/RAND impact w/extension. lots of air pressure.

[DavidI]

Charles, be careful not to turn the steering wheel to the extremes and rely on the steering rack to hold the wheel. Try using a "Club" anti-theft device to hold the steering wheel and an impact wrench at a local shop. If a shop is not close, try using a sledge hammer on a Craftsman ratchet with a quick blow.

Good luck, David

[jevvy]

air ratchet yes but I wouldnt really fancy hitting my steering colum with a big hammer on an impact driver, jus tasking for trouble there I think.

[charleskieffner]

note ............i said small I/RAND impact driver!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ie. 3/8 not 1/2".

[CharlesJones]

Thanks a lot for the advice guys - this all very useful for me.

I think part of my problem is that in order to get the socket to reach down inside the hub I have to use an extension, and that makes it quite awkward to get a decent purchase on the wrench. I could probably do with a better tool really, but I'm not too up on how to use air rachets and impact drivers etc. I don't want to sound like an ignoramus, but is an air rachet one of those compressed air rachets which you see tyre fitters use? And what's an impact driver?

And yes Jevvy, I am indeed dying to get my new wheel on! I've bought a Nardi, and went through a lot of hassel to get the correct hub kit for it after the first one I bought wouldn't fit the wheel, then I had to find a Nardi horn button, and after all that I can't even get the nut off! Agghhh!!! It should look good once its on though...

Thanks again.

[charleskieffner]

3/8 air ratchet = long skinny. 1/2 impact =round and bulbous- heavier and bigger. use 3/8 air ratchet, compressor @ 125psi. 6-8" extension and black impact socket. you may snap chrome socket, but there cheap. if you have none of the above..................buy them ! you will use them.................over and over and over and over! buy the correct tool for the job! do it w/half assed tools it will cost you more in broken parts, excessive drinking, divorce, depression and possibly even worse! i need to put netting around my garage somedays to catch all the tools i throw, when a SIMPLE 10minute job turns to hours ! youll get it!

[ZOA NOM]

I have one of those "manual" impact devices that has a 1/2" drive on the end. The blow with the hammer is directly towards the hub of the wheel, so it doesn't rely on holding the wheel from turning. A few purposeful taps should break the nut loose. Any auto parts store should have them on the shelf.

[john walker's workshop]

just a friendly tip, pull the breaker bar downward to the left side of the wheel, rather than upward toward your windshield.

[scottb]

Originally posted by CharlesJones
I've soaked it for a few days in WD-40

WD-40 isn't going to help you in this situation. Try something like PB Blaster (or the UK equivalent). Spray, let soak overnight, spray again, let soak overnight, and then try some of the ideas mentioned above.

And, JW's advice is solid -- if you pull up you may find yourself replacing a windshield, too!

[mede8er]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
just a friendly tip, pull the breaker bar downward to the left side of the wheel, rather than upward toward your windshield.

Hehhehheh....should we ask you how you know.......

[dentist90]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
just a friendly tip, pull the breaker bar downward to the left side of the wheel, rather than upward toward your windshield.

Love it! Painfully obvious, but even more painful after the fact.
I had to remove mine last year to do alignment (steering rack was not centered when wheels straight ahead). Tried all the things you did (except WD40). Solution was an impact wrench. I don't have air compressor at home so I got an electric model, 250lb/ft max... Two seconds with that and it was off. Quite useful for wheel removal and used it today to remove rear shocks. Reasonable compromise if you don't want to invest in an air compressor and tools.

[Zeke]

Slip a pipe over the anti theft bar and let it rest on some towels on the door. Sit in the seat and simultaneously pull the breaker bar (at least 18" long) down with your left hand while holding/pushing the end with the extension with the other hand.

If that doesn't work, off to the pub and offer a free pint to one of the local brutes to do this for you. It's OK to drive home with the nut lightly snugged so you can get it off later.

And, for chrissakes, don't tighten it this tight when you install your new wheel. Mind the elects while in there!

[gpm0414]

I installed my new wheel last summer and used the method milt did, however I stood outside the car (drivers side) put a 4' pipe on the breaker bar which was on the center bolt...it worked great. The pipe method can put some major torque on the bolt so patient and take it slow. Good luck and enjoy your new wheel.

[dentist90]

The problem i found with the leverage approach is that you need to apply the same amount of opposite torque on the steering wheel to prevent damage to the rack and/or steering column lock. You really need TWO long pipes to do this well.

[pwd72s]

+1 PB Blaster...

[rnln]

To hold the steering wheel stay tight, I use the club ( you know the steering wheel lock "club"). Stand the club up at the steering wheel spoke, lock it, then apply yuor muscle to your wrench.
Worst case, take it to a near by shop to use the impact gun.
Good luck.

[Gene Wilkes]

This works for me: craftsman 1/2 drive with deep 27mm socket

[CharlesJones]

Hey - thanks to all of you for your suggestions and advice. This has all been soooo useful to me, and I've learned an awful lot which I never knew about impact wrenches. I didn't even know such a devices like manual impact wrenches and electric ones existed..

I've been trying to find a manual impact wrench like the one in the picture Zoanas kindly uploaded, but I can't find them anywhere in any of the web-based tool retailers who I normally buy my tools from. Maybe they don't make them anymore? So it looks like I will have to save up for an electric one, although I will have a go at some of the cheaper suggestions first: I'll see if I can get some of that PB Blaster, and also try Milt's suggestion of sticking a pipe over the wrench, if I can find one of an appropriate size.

Thanks again for all your advice. I'll post a picture of my Nardi when I finally get the stinking thing fitted - see what you all think of it. And I'll be careful not to smash the windscreen as per JW's warning!