Problem removing 915 clutch lever arm prior to engine+transmission drop

[James Shoffit]

I am working on my first engine+transmission drop on my 78 911 SC.

I have done most of the steps found in Wayne's articles and book, but one is giving me fits.

The small clutch lever arm with the coil spring came off quite easily (after removing the circlip), but now the large clutch lever arm with the U shaped spring won't come off the shaft.

It rotates independently of the shaft a few degrees, and will move up and down independently of the shaft a bit. But it won't slip off, and trying to pry and press it off has been unsuccessful.

Is there some trick I am missing here ?

There is a small bulge on the cylindical part of the arm that goes over the shaft that looks like a set pin might exist. I can't find any clean way to get that pin out, if it even is a set pin.

Any advice for a newbie ?

Thanks,

James

[rennch]

Is it completely necessary to remove the whole arm? I've had good luck leaving the arm and just removing the cable. I don't know your specific car, but my motor is a 79 SC and my trans is a 72 915.

[9elf]

You don't need to remove the larger arm that the clutch cable pulls on.

The clutch fork (inside that holds onto the throwout bearing) will rotate when you seperate the engine / gearbox independantly of this larger arm.

All you need to remove is the small clutch lever arm - which is what you have done.

[James Shoffit]

Why aren't there any instructions on dropping the engine and transmission together ? All of the notes I have seen describe the engine (leaving tranny in the car), and say "doing it together is easier" but don't mention how.

My specific question is what order do you release the mount bolts ? Transmission first, or engine first ?

Thanks,

James

[James Shoffit]

Oh, and thanks for the replies - I will just leave the larger arm on for now. I might get more info on it once I get the engine and transmission out of the car - thanks!

James

[azasadny]

James,
The same thing is frustrating me, everything I read says "drop them both", but all the directions assume you're leaving the tranny in the car. Have you made any progress? I'm still trying to figure out how to disconnect everything (clutch, speedo, etc...) so I can drop the engine/tranny as a unit.

[James Shoffit]

Ok, I never DID get that second (long) clutch arm out. Still on there.
Engine and tranny came out just fine. I can't figure a reason to remove that other arm at all.

Another note - I didn't find the speedometer cable until the engine/tranny combo was down about 12 inches. The cable goes into the SIDE of the 915 (not the nose cone), on the passenger side (ok, right side if you are standing behind the car facing the front of the car, for those with right hand drive cars ) The approved way to disconnect it is find some mysterious connector in the transmission tunnel (of the car, not on the tranny). I just ended up pulling the black plug out of the transmission and leaving that hanging from the car. The black plug goes into the side of the transmission case right above where the axels connect.

Let me know if you need more specifics.

James

[azasadny]

James,
Thanks for the info, I'll be doing the same thing this week!

[James Shoffit]

basically to drop them together, you leave the starter on (disconnect the big wire there, obviously), you drop the halfshafts (that took some TORQUE on mine - I had just had those replaced by a mechanic), and everything else is about the same. I borrowed a jack plate (THANKS LEE) that perfectly balanced the engine and tranny on a 3 ton jack, making it quite easy to get the whole assembly out. I had the rear torsion bar tubes on 24" jack stands, and the front of the car nearly on the ground. The rear valence, was off, and it just slid right out. The hardest part was transferring it onto the dolly I made...

Good luck, and post if you need help.

James

[azasadny]

James,
Thanks! I'm using an ATV jack and a piece of plywood to make a platform to rest the engine/tranny on. I've got the rear of the car 28" up (from bottom of license plate to floor), but I may remove the rear bumper/valance to get more room. I've done a partial engine drop before, but not a complete one with the tranny, so this is a bit of an adventure for me...

[James Shoffit]

Yeah, that is exactly what I encountered. I couldn't find a way to drive that pin out while the transmission was in the car. No big deal now that I stopped trying to remove it

Thanks for the pic,

James

[rcecale]

Originally posted by azasadny
I've got the rear of the car 28" up (from bottom of license plate to floor), but I may remove the rear bumper/valance to get more room.

Art, if you can survive sticking a Marine in the arm with a needle, surely you can yank your engine/transmission out of your car...with or without tools!

Seriously though, great idea, using the ATV jack, but I'm afraid that your 28" of clearance isn't gonna be enough. IIRC, you'll need a good 40 inches, if not a bit more. You gotta raise the butt real high!

Also, I posted a couple of pics in your thread of how to use a pry-bar to keep your axles from spinning while disconnecting the half-shafts, did those help?

Randy

[azasadny]

Randy,
Yep, your advice really helped. Thanks! I got the transaxles and clutch cable removed, then removed the tranny and motor mounts and down she went. I'll have to take the rear valance/bumper off to get enough clearance as it's really close. Here are a few pics. I just had a shower and I'm going to have a beer (or two)!

[James Shoffit]

ooo! Baggies over the half-shafts - didn't think of that. I did use the rubber gloves over the oil lines and openings though (just cut the fingertips off and secured them with rubber bands).

Which atv jack is that ? Pep Boys is selling one for about $60 bucks and I was considering it. What is the minimum clearance on it ? What is the max height ?

I will probably re-borrow Lee's jack plate since it worked so well, but that atv jack might have some advantages too...

Thanks,

James

[rcecale]

Way to go, Art!!!!

Don't forget the obligatory pic of you sticking up through the engine bay when you finally get it all the way out!

Randy

[azasadny]

Randy,
I'll get the "head and torso out of the engine bay" pic on Thursday or Friday! I used a Sears (Craftsman) ATV jack that I bought two years ago for $100. It works well, but I still need a few pieces of lumber ro get to the right height. I'll have to take off the rear valence/bumper to get the job done. Thanks for your help!

[daddygo]

I'm elbow deep in my first engine/tranny drop as well. 915 tranny in a 1973 911T.

Couple of questions since its fresh in your mind.

1) I noticed you released the sway bar, but I didn't find any mention of that in the Haynes book or the post on Pelican's tech forum by Wayne... was it necessary?

2) Looking for the speedo hook up as well, thanks for the tip... the books also note a reverse light connector. Any tips on where that is located?

3) Found the earth ground strap on the front of the tranny, but the book also says there is one on the engine. Any tips?

Thanks!

['78 SC]

Hi Art,

I'm surprised no one has commented on having the half shafts unsupported. I've read here that the unsupported shaft angle is too severe and potentially damaging. I wired mine up just a bit higher than the installed height and found that keeps them out of the way during the engine reinstallation. It was also handy when I rolled the chassis around and didn't have the axles flailing about.

+1 on the baggies and zip ties.

Good luck with the reinstall.

Steve

[azasadny]

Steve,
Right after the pic was taken, I used zip ties (long ones) to secure the half shafts to the rear shock tower which lifted them out of the way. I tried the "coat hanger trick" but that didn't work. The engine and tranny are back in but I've been having ignition/fuel problems ever sice and the car is in the shop. I have only been able to drive the car once all summer. She (Helga) is going up for sale soon... Thanks!