Electromotive XDi and 930...EXPERTS PLEASE SUBSCRIBE

sand_man · 06-01-2006, 05:23 AM

Okay, my new engine is now back in the car - 1987 930. I'm using Electromotive XDi twin plug with Clewett plug wires. I've checked the wiring and it all looks correct. When I attempt to start the car, it just turns over...engine just won't catch. In the Electromotive manual it suggests that the green light on the ignition module should flash as the car is cranking. The light on mine just stays green...no flashing, no color change either (from green to red). As soon as the key is turned, the light goes from an orange color to green and stays green. I've got the crank sensor located (free air space) just under 1MM from the crank wheel. In the manual it suggest that if the light doesn't flash that the sensor isn't finding the wheel. Could I have a bad sensor? Also, I connected a timing light to one of the plug wires and as I was starting the car, the timing light doesn't flash. Do the DFUs get power (spark) if the crank sensor is not working? MAN I'M SOOOO CLOSE!

Also, I checked the wire the connects the over boost switch and it doesn't get power with the ignition switched on...should it? Or does this wire get power as the car is cranking? This could cause the fuel pumps not to come on. First I need to get the ignition stuff figured out before I go to fuel.

HELP A BROTHA OUT!!! I'm CLOSE!

89turbocabmike · 06-01-2006, 07:52 AM

Bump to the top for my 930 brother

Steve@Rennsport · 06-01-2006, 08:09 AM

Hi:

Sure sounds like either the sensor gap is too far apart, the sensor is defective, or the sensor wiring/connectors are faulty.

magic930 · 06-01-2006, 08:36 AM

The coils should have power regardless of the condition of the crank sensor...(green light) however the crank sensor is essential for triggering the coils and releasing the spark.
The sensor can be tested using a volt meter, push some small wires into the connector. (there are usually three connections at the plug, one is only for the shield, it is the other two you are interested in) The voltage should pulse +/- 5v as the crank turns and fall completely as it passes the missing teeth.

sand_man · 06-01-2006, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Steve@Rennsport
Hi:

Sure sounds like either the sensor gap is too far apart, the sensor is defective, or the sensor wiring/connectors are faulty.

Thanks guys! I called Richard Clewett...nicest damn guy! Anyway, he suggested that I not use the starter as a power source as was suggested by others. He said to run power directly from the battery. He thinks that some voltage spikes could cause my problem. I'll try what he says.

sand_man · 11:01 AM

This thing is killing me!!!

I've checked everything fifty times.

-Grounds were all tested
-Relays were tested
-Mag sensor was tested all the way from the ECU and it's reading 650 ohms...which is good
-I've run a wire all the way from the battery for a cleaner power source
-I've tried to move the mag sensor wires away from the starter and the spark plug wires
-I checked the sensor bracket...it fits as it should
-I moved the free air space between the sensor and the crank wheel all over the place! Right now it's set at .020". The manual calls for .030"to .035"
-I checked the dip switches in the box...all are good.
I just don't think the sensor is seeing the wheel and if it is the signal is being lost before it hits the ECU!!!!!

The light on the ECU will not flash as the engine turns.

I have a borrowed digital Fluke meter that I know very little about, but with the test leads installed in the mag sensor wiring, the meter is fluctuating. Could it be the ECU?

I'M DESPERATE!!!!!

ozz · ozz's Garage

Have you checked the pin postions in the connector to the XDi module to verify proper wires are in proper positions? I have a vague recollection that when converting from single to dual plug, there was a misprint in the documentation that put a wire in the wrong postion in the connector. I don't have my notes handy and wil be gone until Sunday but can try to find them when I return. Also, double check that the sensor is at the trailing edge of the 11th tooth of the trigger wheel when the engine is at TDC. The other thing to do is to call Nick at Electromotive support --- this is from thier website -- Electromotive's Technical Support is available from 8:30 am to 5:00 PM Eastern Time Monday through Friday at 703 331-0100

good luck....

sand_man · 06-02-2006, 11:08 AM

Thanks, ozz. I guess I'll check the alignment of the sensor to the wheel...I'm using the Clewett sensor bracket so it's not really adjustable, it's made to fit a Porsche crank case.

I have checked the pins over and over. I followed the wiring exactly. If there was a misprint...I wasn't aware.

dean · 06-02-2006, 03:06 PM

Hey Sand man,

I hope this isn't too harsh but do yourself a favor and take the Electromotive unit out now and sledge hammer it into the driveway and buy something else.

Cause if you get it running it will leave you stranded somewhere in the future.

Rob 930 · 06-02-2006, 05:28 PM

Sand_man

Dean's just kidding. I think.

You said you "checked the ground." I suggest that you connect to battery ground directly (a wire right to the negative terminal) to eliminate the possibility of a ground problem. I'm using a Clewett pulley/bracket and Electromotive crank sensor on my DTA, and I couldn't get a reliable crank signal until I did that. A chassis ground didn't work. I couldn't believe that it would make such a difference, but it immediately sprang to life. If you've already made sure you have a clean power signal, I suggest you do the same for the ground. It's easy to do. Good luck.

Rob

dean · 06-02-2006, 05:52 PM

Sorry Rob,

I am not kidding. The Electromotive crank sensor that I have on my DTA EFI has failed twice now and left me stranded. I had to have it towed once and I limped 7 miles at 20 mph the second time scaring the ****ing **** (that is ******* *****) (for the censors) out of my dog who now HATES my car. I forget a lot of stuff but I will not forget what a POS my Electromotive crank sensor is. Can you tell that I am pissed

Jeff Alton · 06-02-2006, 06:03 PM

Which sensor do you have now, or which one would you recommend?

Cheers

dean · 06-02-2006, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by catca
Which sensor do you have now, or which one would you recommend?

Cheers

I just bought another POS Electromotive sensor cause it is summer here now and to change the sensor to a different brand I would have to pull the motor and I will wait for winter to do that. I wonder how many POS Electromotive sensors I go though till winter.

I am going to install a Ford sensor next time. I hear they are very reliable.

sand_man · 06-03-2006, 03:31 AM

Thanks guys...got some more tricks to try from Richard Clewett as well as Electromotive. We'll see. I'll report back what I did to fix it...if I fix it!

sand_man · 06-03-2006, 09:15 AM

After trying many more things, one possibility that Clewett pointed out was/is that the black and red leads for the magnetic sensor could have been reversed when Electromotive manufactured the sensor...thus my following the correct wiring diagram, I would have had the wires in what was seemingly the correct ECU pins, but unknowingly reversed!!! GAD!

So for grins I reversed the black and red wires to the ECU and the freaking thing (the sensor light) finally began flashing as it should!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't have time at this moment to actually see if the engine will start (had to take some things off to test all of this), but hope to try it to fire up the engine tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help...still not out of the woods - the final test is if this biatch will run!

89turbocabmike · 06-03-2006, 10:06 AM

Good news Sand man, one step closer

sand_man · 06-04-2006, 04:28 PM

The car fired up on the first try!!!! I've done the 20 minute high idle break-in and have just changed the oil and filter! No leaks, yet!!! Please pray that there aren't any leaks in the forseable future! I'm running a 934 style "zork" tube straight pipe, and all I can say is that this f_cker sounds bad @zz! It's hella loud in my garage. I haven't taken it for a spin yet - still have a few little items to put back, but right now I'm a little relieved!

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

You can check the resistance across the sensor if you ever expect it. Even a few ohms out of range can cause issues. BTDT