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Help, Fuel line leak! need quick fix.
I replaced my filter and now have a fuel drip at the Pressure line leading into the accumulator. The leak is at the point where the rigid line mates with the rubber metal end cap. I don't think the rubber is cracked. I just think the compression fitting is leaking.
Is there a temp fix out there? this part will cost 85 or more direct from germany. ![]()
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Cutter
I know that there are shops in the Chicagoland area that probably could make that fitting for you, and there must be something around you, instead of having to order from Germany. A wild guess but how about JB Weld. I have used it on many things and its unreal. Im sure others will chime in on this. Just a thought.
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----------------------------- Ernie 81 SC |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
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Exactly where is the leak?
![]() If it is at the red arrow(s) you can take that assembly out to work on it. You will need to carefully Drimmel off the metal crimp collar without damaging the pipe. Shorten the hose by cutting off the damaged part and reinstall with a clamp like at the purple arrow. If still leaking any fuel, do not drive it. A tow is far better than burning it (and you) to the ground. ![]() You may have to loosen the clamps that secure the acumulator and filter. This is a very temporary fix. Best, Grady Last edited by Grady Clay; 06-13-2006 at 04:26 PM.. |
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Great news! It stopped leaking. I went back out to do some thinking (with my hands) and turned the ignition to started the fuel pump to inspect hose and other connections. It didn't leak again so I wiggled the fitting around a bit to see if it would hold under limited vibration. Could it have been sitting unpressurized and dried out a little? Maybe my prayer life has payed off and God took pity on my wife and the finances. Anyway, I drove it for a half hour and no leak. Still need a plan in case it fails (faith in action).
Ernie, JB weld... I might use that one as a last resort. It works on most of the metal things I've tried it on but not sure I trust it for fuel+pressure where I can't get the parts apart to get good coating. Grady, nice 928. not yours i hope. Yes the left most red arrow was where it leaked. No evidence of the hose itself cracked and leaking. What if i remove the old rubber hose as you suggested but make a permanent clamp hose fitting with a new hose? Is the line pressure too high for this to work? what is the line pressure(40psi)? What is the Inside dia of this hose, if you think that will work. PS; Grady what program do you use to draw arrows on my beautiful pictures?
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1984 Carrera Coupe = love affair 1997 Eagle Talon Tsi = old girlfriend (RIP) 2014 Chrysler 300 AWD Hemi = family car "Lowering the bar with every post!" |
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Quote:
I had my fuel hose leak at the same spot. It was on a Saturday morning and I took the hose fitting to a local hydraulic shop and had them crimp a new gasoline fuel injection rated hose onto my old fitting. Five minues later, I was fixed. Cost? Less than $10.00. You can see my replacement hose in the forground below. The hose is actually rated for 200 psi but since I did not have a space problem, why not a stouter hose? ![]()
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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Thanks Harry. I think I'll do what you did.
I knew some one out there had used the original rigid line and replaced the hose. Just wasn't sure how.
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No, that isn’t (wasn’t) my 928. I certainly feel for the owner.
The critical issue is to find the correct hose. The hose clamp is 999.512.160.02. Note how the clamp is designed to not damage the hose. Normal CIS pressures are specified to about 5 bar (~75 psi). I think I would feel comfortable with a hose with working pressure of at least double that (>150 psi). I suspect there is a readily available hose suitable for this purpose. Something to pay attention to when making fuel connections is there should be a raised “bump” on the pipe. This helps with the sealing and prevents the clamped end of the hose from pushing off the pipe. You will find that under the swaged crimp piece. Harry, I’m always concerned that too strong (rigid) hose won’t clamp properly on the pipe.. While the crimp connection may be great, the hose clamp must work on the hose. Note my admonition about the type of clamp. Best, Grady Oh yea, the arrows are done with MS Paint also. You did a better job of making arrows. I need something better yet still simple enough for my lame brain. G.
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Grady,
Point taken. It was replaced several years ago and so far, no evidence of leaks. I'll keep that in mind as I continue.
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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