Obligatory 32F AC vent image

[JBO]

Mine works like that as well (81 SC). The prior owner spent $3,800 in '98 at a shop to update the system and it still blows cold (though I rarely use it as the car is a Targa and it is not a daily driver). When i purchased my car several years ago I would not have bought one without working A/C (though if I realized how little I would use it it would not have been such a big deal to me). It is nice to have though.

[Jim Sims]

I removed the pulley and the edge of the outer groove was machined off (simple lathe operation). I do this now as standard practice as I have seen early, mid-year and SC engine deck lids dented by this groove edge on the two groove pulley Sandens. It probably depends on the compressor mount but I no longer take the chance. Even if the lid appears to clear (doesn't catch a piece of paper between the groove edge and deck lid underside technique, etc.) one should understand that the deck lid latch allows the deck lid to over travel downward when being closed. This over travel allows the pulley to dent the deck lid.

[sammygon1]

Jim,
Is this the part number for the switch you ordered 911-613-121-01-M145?
Thanks,
Sam

[Jim Sims]

Yes, Sam. That's the number (911.613.121.01-M145) of the temperature switch I ordered and installed.

[Jim Sims]

Procooler mounted up under fender with reduced barrier hoses shown loose; hoses were later bundled and secured/clamped down.




Rocker hose run; smaller size of reduced barrier hoses makes them easier to mount out of sight and more out of "harms way".

[88911coupe]

Jim, This is really helpful. Could I trouble you to somehow identify which of the hoses is going to what on the Procooler?
Thanks for all your help on AC issues.

[Barrpete]

Originally posted by Jim Sims
I removed the pulley and the edge of the outer groove was machined off (simple lathe operation). I do this now as standard practice as I have seen early, mid-year and SC engine deck lids dented by this groove edge on the two groove pulley Sandens. It probably depends on the compressor mount but I no longer take the chance. Even if the lid appears to clear (doesn't catch a piece of paper between the groove edge and deck lid underside technique, etc.) one should understand that the deck lid latch allows the deck lid to over travel downward when being closed. This over travel allows the pulley to dent the deck lid.

Carrera's as well? And is that with the adapter plate that Rennaire sells? I'm gettting ready to install the complete Rennaire system with the Sanden 507 in my '86 coupe so do I need trim the pulley groove?

My only other decision is R-12 or 134a. R-12 is more expensive but will likely perform better. On the other hand it will eventually be NLA.

[Jim Sims]

No experience with a Carrera or the Rennaire adapter bracket.
You might call Rennaire and ask if they've has problems reported. If I were doing the swap I'd just turn down the pulley edge and be done with it.

For several reasons (not the least of which is expense) I only work with R-134a.

[Jim Sims]

Procooler (combined receiver/drier and subcooler) hose connections from memory referenced to the above posted image:

Upper left: high pressure liquid refrigerant from condenser(s); this requires a #6 90 degree female o-ring (FO) fitting.

Upper right: high pressure liquid refrigerant to evaporator; this requires a #6 90 degree FO fitting.

Mid-way down on left: low pressure two-phase (gas and some liquid) refrigerant from evaporator; this requires a #10 45 degree FO fitting.

Bottom: low pressure gaseous (mostly) refrigerant to compressor; this requires a #10 straight FO fitting.

Unless you have the background to design and the right equipment (such as the means to hydro-statically pressure test it) I caution against building one of these vessel type R/D subcoolers (Procoolers). The vessel size and pressurized refrigerant represent significant stored energy. If you want a R/D type subcooler (Procooler) buy it from Rennaire; you'll save time and money.

Cheers, Jim

[jaydubya]

/golfclap

Bravo!

[88911coupe]

Thanks Jim...I was just trying to mentally picture what's going where. Obviously it's possible to get everything to fit in there without rubbing but it looks like it might be tight.

[Barrpete]

Thanks Jim,

Looks like trimming the flange is the way to go - then I'll be sure. I guess I may as way bite the bullet & go 134a as well. It will for sure spare me a retrofit some time in the future.

[bigchillcar]

another sims' hole in one..score! good call on lathing off the outer pulley half on the sanden, too. what did you use for 'stone guards' on the two fender condensers, jim? look forward to seeing those mounting pics..guess you used electric fans on both as well..

jim..do you have a source for the barrier hose? did you purchase it by the foot (43' total) and then cut to match the original? same source for the fittings?
ryan

[Jim Sims]

Everything needed (except one piece of $0.50 punched steel bar needed for a bracket for early and mid-year cars) for the fender condensers comes in the Griffith's kits. This includes the plastic stock and tracing templates to make the stone guards. The stone guards are trimmed to fit given the variability and changing 911 fenders over the years. The condenser fans are part of the kits and already are mounted to the condensers. Mostly one just installs the kits.

I recommend Mobile AC Hose Repair Products Co. (1-888-248-0917) as a source of A/C hose, fittings and other A/C hose and fitting repair and building tools and supplies. Mike Blanton there know his product and the trade. Recall that the correct crimper and dies are required to attach the hose fittings; using a standard hydraulic hose crimping machine can result in cutting the barrier layer or making a loose, leaking crimp. An ATCO hose fitting "bubble "crimping rig or equivalent is an significant investment. I purchased reduced barrier hose in continuous lengths and custom measured and fit the runs - this was "new" install; there were no original runs to copy.

Front Stone Guard


Rear Stone Guard

[bigchillcar]

jim,
thanks for posting. i didn't expect stone guards that weren't some type of wire mesh for some reason..interesting..looks like probably some kind of semi-pliable, yet durable plastic material. good..i've saved this post to have the number for that barrier-style hose supply house. of course, i'll need your address at some future date so i'll know where to have the hose and fittings drop shipped..
ryan

[fintstone]

Great work Jim. The photos do not do the install justice. The Griffith's kit's fender condensers and stone guards are vitually hidden in the wheel wells. The look is very finished and you would not notice they were there unless you were specifically looking.