Doug, sorry for the delay...got busy @ work, then forgot & then had trouble getting a legible scan. Hope you can see the graph. If not, I'll try again. BTW- the top of the graph indicates power & torque at the flywheel but it's really at the wheels. They, Auto Associates, zero the percentage factor of horsepower & torque loss through the drivetrain so the dyno reads the values at the wheels rather than extrapolating back to flywheel.

Edit: Let's try this again w/a bigger graph:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206388373.jpg

I love Dynapacks!
They bolt the dyno right to the hub... the number is the real deal. I've seen lot's of "shady" dyno numbers, but the dynapacks seem to be very repeatable, and there's none of that assumptive math used as with some of the other guys.

Those numbers look stout, and I bet they feel even stouter!

this is bolt on power to any 3.0L 911 engine, right?? ;-)

Don't I wish............ dang that is impressive... I have to re-read this thread to see what you did to achieve this & if I can afford it...
Best of luck with this SWEEEEEEEEET MACHINE!!
Bob

Thanks guys! I can't wait to drive it!
911 tweaks- no real mystery, it was a compromise to keep the heat. They flowbenched the HE's & mb911's muffler to choose the specs for the cams to eliminate the flatspots that would've occurred. If I went to full-out race cams & headers, I would only gain a few hp but would gain close to 30 ft lbs of torque. The engine only does this on Sunoco purple (110 leaded) & 12.5:1 CR. Everything else is RSR spec...I couldn't afford titanium valves, so stainless had to suffice. Auto Associates has alot of experience in knowing what works with what & I highly recommend them!