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mikez
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3.0 upgrade

I broke a head stud on my 79 CIS euro 3.0 and I am planning to do a top end rebuild while I am at it. The motor has about 120K on it and is a very strong runner.

The plans are a valve job, or at least an R&R of the valves, new rings, new cam chain assemblies, 964 cams and all new 993 studs. Any other suggestions, cautions or advise?

I can not increase displacement due to $$ and the race class that I currently am in...

Old 10-25-1999, 09:14 AM
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Hence
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Just out of curiosity, how did you know when the head stud(s) broke? Does it leak oil? Does it make noise? Is the car driveable? Thanks!
Brian
Old 10-25-1999, 01:05 PM
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mikez
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The tell tale sign of a head stud failure was two fold. First a "flutter" in the exhaust note over 4,000 rpms. Second a minor oil leak at the base of the cylinder.

There was a minor loss of power but the valves were loose and in need of adjustment at the time. The car is driveable, but I would not recommend over 3500 rpms.

The studs appeared to have rusted, obviously from the P/O as I do not drive in the rain. I don't like being an "unterzeebotkommander".

[This message has been edited by mikez (edited 10-25-1999).]
Old 10-25-1999, 01:16 PM
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jryerson
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I would utilize Raceware instead of 993 studs .They are lighter and stronger from what I have heard .You might consider some port enlarging and polishing. check out paulweir.com
Old 10-25-1999, 06:07 PM
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mikez
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Thanks for the hint, but I got the exact opposite advice on the 911/SC list @ rennlist.org. Go figure....the 993 studs are $13 a piece and the Raceware are more expensive. Hmmm, my vote is for the Stuttgart Boys this time....I will definitely let you know if I choose wrong.

Anyone ever re-ring one of these puppies? I have heard that you just don't do it if the compression is good and you DO NOT hone the cylinders. But MM has a "secret" that costs $500 and the P/Cs come back pre assembled, where you just slam them on the rods...
Old 10-25-1999, 10:47 PM
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john rogers
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We had the top end done on our Turbo and the big item I had to worry about was: were the cylinders round? Check the spec book for your car to see the limits as if they have gotten oval and you try to just do a re-ring, then the rings may never seat and it will smoke, etc, etc. I noticed you didn't mention guides, and I had all ours replaced which will make things last much longer. This ties in with checking the valve stems for straightness and wear and making sure all items are within specs. While the cylinders are off I would also check rod play and such to insure the bottom end is in good shape.

Old 10-26-1999, 10:59 AM
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