DYNO numbers for my 76' 2.7Turbo EFI(Tbitz)
 

Well I finally got my car on the Dyno yesterday. Sort of dissapointing, I thought that the numbers would be higher.

The car is a 2.7 Turbo with Tony's EFI kit. The car run's awesome and over all the numbers are good. I was able to get 189 RWHP with 198 Tq. Assuming 15% that gives me 217 HP. I am a liitle dissapointed because I think that I can still get more.

The firs run that I had with my setup was the 189, they guys at the Dyno said that the car was running lean and that I should richen it up. My problem is that my LM1 was telling me that on that run I was at 12.5 AFR where the dyno was saying 14 AFR. As I richenned it up I kept losing power on every pull. On the last run they said to take it to my original numbers and the car ran the second pull that is on the attached graph of 182rwhp. He thought that it was lower due to heat soak on the motor so we just stopped for the day.

My turbo seems to be comes on over 100KPA at 3500 rpm and reaches full bost of 4.3lbs at 5000 maintaining the 4.3lbs until redline. I need to work at getting the turbo to get more boost. I don't know what I need to do here yet. This is where I know that I can get more power. I should be able to go to 7-9lbs.

Ignition is MSD with timing computer and Pertronix.

Now let's see some suggestions.

Oscar
Akron, Ohio
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152285984.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152286012.jpg

I'd bet the LM-1 was right and their sensor was wrong, which lowered the power as you went more rich.
As for boost, that's easy .Just get a mecvhanical boost controller. I got one on e-bay for aroujnd $25.
It blocks the boost signal to the waste gate until it reaches a certain set point which is adjustable.
What was the stock HP for that engine, around 150? if so you have added 67 hp which is substantial for less that 5 lbs boost.

I have a boost controller that I haven't hooked up yet. But I was thinking that with a 9lb spring on my waste gate it shouldn't open yet?

No offense intended but if that was MY car, I'd ask for my money back. That is horrible power for a turbo. My basically stock 3.0 I'm sure puts out more than that.

Wayne, your stock turbo isn't a 2.7.
it isn't running 4.3 lbs boost either.

This engine obviously needs to be dialed in and will probably get close to the 250 hp mark once everything is set up right with is killer for a 2.7.

If we asked BB how much he has invested I'd guess that even at the point he is at today, he is still getting more HP per $ than most people.

As the engine was righened up even further that the starting point the combustion temperatures fell which reduced the energy going to drive the turbo. If you bumped it up to around 12.8 to one (according to your LM-1) you would get more power and probably more boost.
What kind of wastegate are you running?

Mine isn't a turbo. Just a stock Euro spec 3.0 with CIS with a performance muffler. Bone stock was claimed to be 204HP and 267 ft lb. Again, I don't mean to be rude but it seems like you should be able to get way more horsepower out of a turbo'd engine.

I would expect at least 300 HP.

Let me ask a dumb question of you guys:
Is the 2.7 such a good starting place for a turbo motor?

I was actually considering a BAE setup in the future but if I cannot make a sizeable increase, what's the point?

When I bought the car it had the BAE kit installed. I have done the EFI and all the engine work. If I had the money I would just turbo a 3.6 but since I had the 2.7 I want to see what it can do. I know I can get a lot more out of it but I needed a place to start. Eventually I will be running 7-9lbs which should give me plenty of power for a car that's right around 2800 lbs.

Oscar

I understand the money thing, for sure. If Ihad the money I would be doing a 3.6 conversion to my SC.
Good luck and I hope you get the output optimized through tuning.

To get 300 hp out of the 2.7, there will need to be $'s spent inside the engine and outside as well. Oscar will do some tuning and adjusting and get more power and it will be cheep good power. And it will be faster than a standard sc or carrera.

Getting 300 out of a 2.7 is expensive.
It should be do-able to get 250 from one without breaking the bank though.

I would be happy with 250-270. I just rebuilt the engine last year so it w/timecerts linebored... so it should hold up.

The only issue would be if the compression is too high and if you have intercooling. 270 is where I want to be with my 3.0 and 930 induction and fueling. In a nut shell, You may get 300hp with the efi for a little while. Then you may need to rebuild again with additional costs like pistons and twinplugging. 300hp is a lot to ask for but if you have anough $?

I am using the stock CIS pistons.

Oscar

That's flywheel HP and torque, if you're tuned well you'd be making about 173 HP and 226 ft/lbs at the wheels.

For reference I ran my carbed '81SC (late model 34mm intake ports) on the very same dyno and got 174 HP and 180 ft/lbs at the wheels. My car according to the dyno as well as my AF gauge was leaning out at high rpm due to a bad fuel pump.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=291307&highlight=dynoje t+fun

Don't forget your engine is also 10 percent larger than Oscar's 2.7.

Oscar, I think you're off to a great start and this is why I like dynos, you can actually see what the changes to the engine make in terms of power. The guys at Akron Horsepower are really nice and in passing they mentioned they've got extra O2 bungs on their cars for tuning. I'd bet if you weld in a bung they'll put their O2 sensor right in your exhaust if you ask ahead of time. Are you running a wideband or narrow band O2?

Get that boost up where it should be and I bet you make the HP you want. Have you played with timing at all?

I agree with sammy2g's thoughts. You added fuel and hurt the power output. 5000 rpm threshold for full boost sounds awfully high. Make sure you don't have any leaks.

Oh Haha, 267 ft-lbs from a 3.0? That must be Euro ft-lbs... :rolleyes:

Christian, I am running a LM1 Wideband sensor. That's why I was confused. My readings kept showing me that I was at 12.5 but they kept saying that I was lean. The guys at Akron Horspower are pretty cool. Was almost embarrassed the car before mine was a plain looking Mustang that they had tuned for the kid at around 550rwhp.

Compare apples to apples, not apples to lemons. His car will be clapped out in a few short years and yours will be a turbocharged calssic forever:)

Have you done a calibration on your LM-1? Very important. I found my LM-1 to be more accurate than the POS DynoDynamic lambda sensor.

What turbo do you have? What is your total timing? There are so many variables your mind can blow.

[

Oh Haha, 267 ft-lbs from a 3.0? That must be Euro ft-lbs... :rolleyes: [/B][/QUOTE]

You're right.
I'm an idiot. I went back to my books and it IS in Nm. I finally found one that shows the torque in good ol' "Merican values.
192ft lb@4300PRM

I'll just go over here and mind my own business now.:(
Sorry about that.

Hehe, no sweat. I have a Euro engine in my SC. It's stout, but not 267 ft-lbs worth o' stout. :D
jurgen