Warren correctly identifies the potential slop areas in the 915 shifter.

In the case of the Weltmeister kit. WM replaces the factory shift lever with their own. However, the lever OD is 19mm; the factory OD is 20mm. The factory dimensions between lever and fork (see Warren's photo below) normally provides a slight interference fit, but the smaller OD introduces more clearance. This can lead to vibration and rattling, but more importantly, less movement transfer to the gearbox shift tube.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152633237.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152633452.jpg
Those using a WM can restore/adjust the clearance by decreasing dimension "B" with a couple of large sockets and a bench vise (preferred) or by inserting thin shims between lever and fork.

Sherwood
more info here

Based on Sherwood's recommendations, I pulled my shifter out tonight to see about getting rid of the rest of the slop. I replaced ALL bushings in the last two years as well as cleaning and relubing the shifter. I have Weltmeister short shift kit installed. (I posted that I removed it in an earlier post but I forgot that I re-re-installed it.

I have eliminated the slop by squeezing the rectangular thingy shifter goes through. The only slop now is in that piece. The pin moves slightly fore and aft. I don't see this piece in the Pelican catalog. Are they available form Porsche? It would be nice to have no movement at all. Is there a kit to rebush where the pin goes through?

EDIT::#16 inthe diagram on page 1 is where my slop is. Shift pivot housing.

BTW- I have the shifter assembly adjusted and modified to fit my driving style. It goes into gear great. Well, great for a 915 anyway.

Wayne,
If your shift housing is the same vintage as your car ('81), then you should have the late housing with the adjustable set screw/pivot pin.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152839377.jpg

If so, loosen the lock nut, then rotate the set screw to arrive at the desired end play.

If you have a pre-'77 shift housing, insert shims/flat washers on both ends of the fork to take up excess clearance.

Sherwood

Thanks Sherman.
I have the late housing and the end play is adjusted to none. The slop is in the shifter guide pin hole in the pivot housing. It's like the hole the pin goes through is elongated from years of use. I have a new guide pin installed. In the picture you have above, it's the "fork".

morning bump

Wayne - if you need that shifter fork here's a link to one from our host:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait= N&make=POR&model=911M&section=Tshift&page=4&bookma rk=20&part_number=930-424-071-00-OEM

EDIT: Oops I did the one for the turbo. But it's right above it cause you have the short shift kit right?

I saw that but the one for mine is NLA.
I don't have the factory short shift kit.

Anybody know if the shifter block for the factory short shift will work with mine? It can't be that different.

I don't think the short shift block would work because it has a raised section and the hole that goes through the sides are higher up. Here's a pic, but it's kinda hard to see.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152880487.jpg

I would be more curious to see the difference between the turbo one and a non-turbo one. I bet they are closer, maybe even interchangeable?

Since it isn't very expensive I would check with the dealer. Or make your own it looks easy enough to make. It's just a rectangle tube with some holes.

Hmmmmm..
Ok, does anybody know if the Turbo shift block will work on a regular 915 shifter.

(I would love to be able to whip up a new one but I don't have the skills or tools for that kind of work.)

The "Factory short shifter" should have been called "the shifter that the factory should have given us in the first place" It works well and I don't have to lean forward to get it into 1st gear. Sure you need to replace the bushes and get everything set up nice, but then the shifts are pretty positive.

What? You're gonna help me pull the engine and trans and you say you don't have the skills? Yeah right!! If anyone could do it you could. Use the old one as a guide....

Step 1: Buy rectangular tubing
Step 2: Cut to desired length
Step 3: Drill four holes
Step 4: Install
Step 5: Have a beer!

Easy as pie....

I don't have your skills and I could do it... :p

Oh, but if you mess up anything along the way just don't tell the wife I suggested this cause she probably wouldn't let us hang out anymore..... :D

You know, I'm driving around today thinking about making one of those.
I already called my wife and told her I would HAVE to purchase the Turbo version if it will work. Her response was " I thought you said last night that you have the shifter as good as it going to get." "Yes Dear, I did but you see.........
I think she groaned today when I told her my plan. I'm pretty sure she groaned. That means "Yes, right?


Could someone get a measurement on the shift block for me?

What about the Performance Products Quick-Shift. Very simple kit with a shift extension that replaces your stock shift ball, while using your stock gear shift lever. Very simply moves the pivot point/mechanical advantage slightly. I installed one 8 years ago. It's inexpensive, easy to install, works decent. May also do all the bad things that I don't seem to be experiencing, but it's ok. Combo that with all the usual bushing replacements and a Seine shift kit. Not too shabby.

Well now you've done it, Al. You mentioned the "other" PP. For shame.

I've been bad. Apologies to the host and all others who may have been offended.

No bushings with kit. Order the ball cup and shift rod bushings as separate items