Please help me keep my sanity

[Kroggers]

So I decided that there are so many nice cars on here that have clean arches and even under the car, that it was my turn to clean out 30 years of oil and crud as well.
Sometimes ignorance is better I have found rust AGAIN, and this time it is not some small patch of surface rust. I have a nice hole that goes straight through the rear inner wing. Just where the tube for the engine cover release cable goes, there is a nice hole that goes straight through to the rear seat just under the window.... I can not keep up with the rust on this car any more!! I have already spent so much time and money trying to kill the cancer on this car only to find it is hiding somewhere else.

Did not know whether to cry or not. I am soooo close to giving up on this car!!!

OK, so I suppose the only action open to me is to strip the complete bottom of the car (including all 4 arches) back to bare metal, treat rust and repaint. Only problem is I do not have the facilities or skills for a project like this. Let alone any experience welding!!

What would a good body shop in the US charge for this? What is the worst case I am looking at here? I already spent over $4000 in the UK on body work and new paint last year.... Man this sucks!!!

[Zeke]

Bare metal bottom? Let's see, if one had a lift, it would take a strenuous day to remove most of the underbody protection. Of course, if you're talking about the same for the rear engine areas, removal of the engine/trans and paint,etc., add another day. The repair to the tray probably involves removing the rear glass, but that's just a few minutes. I spent 24 hours replacing a whole rear tray, don't know what your situation is. And, again, this is a very hard set of repairs to quantify when you can't see the extent of everything.

Any rust that has not gone thru can be treated on the surface and sealed with one of the products like POR 15. That which has pentrated has to be cut out and repaired. I'd allow a week for all you've mentioned the way you want to do it. That could cost 3-4K US, give or take a bunch.

[Kroggers]

Thank you milt. I am one of those people who believe that if a job is worth doing it should be done properly. Therefore if I bite the bullet and get this work done (which I probably will do after I have had a day or so to feel better about it all), I will go for the complete job. Remove engine, gear box suspension, fuel tank etc, get all the paint striped, any rust treated, and then paint it all again. My only worry with just treating the rust with POR 15 is that I am told the only way to stop rust is to cut it out. Treatments like POR 15 will not kill the rust for good - is this true?

Here is a pic of the part I am talking about. I have treated it for now with rust killer so as to stop the rust from growing - I hope!! You can see it is just under the tube for the rear engine lid release cable. I am also hoping I will not find the same on the other side

[Zeke]

While I see some rust, I've seen CA cars worse. Don't get too agitated.

[livi]

What a nightmare. Particularly after spending that much on the body already. Sorry. Give it a few days before you decide what to do about it.

I think I will keep the dirt under the fenders. Don´t want to know what its hiding.

[Kroggers]

Thank you milt, I know all can be fixed if you only have the $$$.

My girlfriend took me out for a couple of drinks this evening, and I am already feeling better about it all. She reminded me about how much I love the car, so I will get it fixed.

Markus, I am not sure what is the best option. If your car is a Euro car like mine and has spent all its time in wet winters and snow, then it might be a good idea to grit your teeth and give your arches a good clean...

[livi]

You are right of course. My car have spent all its winters in Germany so at least the salt attacks have been minimal.

[Kroggers]

But then I have 7 years of extra snow, salt and water than your car has had to deal with!!! So you should hope that you will not have anything as bad as what I am finding??