First, many folks have said that just replacing your old bulbs with new ones (BA7S 12Volt 2Watt) will improve the gauges.

But I was looking for some other way of getting more light into the gauges. So, I figured out that you can actualy put a 194 5W bulb into the same place that the BA7S stock bulb and its holder go into. I will provide more details on howto do this but it does require a little skill to do this, basic wire soldering, shrink tubing and time.

Then, I happen to find these 194 Amber 4 LED bulbs and decided to try them (I think White ones would be a better choice) but amber was at hand. The trouble with this approach is you must open the gauges, this is not easy, it's done very carefully with a screwdriver prying the black rim back away from the gauge. I do not recommend this for most folks as I have opened more than a dozen of these over the years and wrecked the first 2 or 3 I tried.

I just thought I'd try 4 high power LEDs right in the case to see what results they would yield. I must say the gauge is dimmer than the 194 5W buld approach that does not require the gauge to be opened. I think most folks could handle this modification.

I will continue my work by updating the 2 lights in my Speedometer next, maybe this weekend or sooner. This time I will take pictures of the procedure as I update the speedo.

In summary: I think the LED approach may work out if I try more ideas with LEDs but it seems that opening the gauges would most likely be the only way to get LEDs to work.

I think most folks are looking for something simpler: if we could only get a bulb manufacturer to build us a BA7S 12Volt 5Watt bulb! If we had such a bulb I'm sure it would produce the results we are seeking. Anyone know howto get custom builbs built?
Well, till then I'll keep going down the 194 5Watt builb route.

I used Amber because it was what was at hand for testing. I agree white is a much better choice, it's not just a matter of taste it is also sience. Our gauges are black with white numbers so white light would reflect 100% of the white numbers and lines. Amber light gets partially absorbed by the white numbers and will result in the appearance of the gauge looking dim. But, I think that even if he LEDs where white the results would not be any better than the white 194 standard 5W bulb idea. The only other reason to still test LED ideas is the low power they require: a 194 5W bulb at 14Volts is .35A while all 4 of the Amber LEDs use less than .05 amps. So I will continue to look at other LED ideas and since my clock is already cracked open it easy for me to play around with diffrent approaches.

Ditto on the amber bulbs! Sal, good talking with you today. I stopped by local auto parts and bought a few different bulbs to try out. The 194NA (amber) were not even worthy of a photo. Also tried a 164 amber bulb. Same result as 194na. They had a 4light LED that was supposed to be a direct replacement for 194 bulb, but it is about and 1/8" larger dia. Will not fit in the clock anyway. Also looked at another bulb they had... it was a multicolor LED that definitely would fit. Problem with it (at least for me!) is that is cycles through 7 colors! Woooooooohhhh Ted.

I am going to check local Radio Shack tomorrow to see if they have any other options. There has to be something out there, or maybe as suggested, we can find someone that has a connection to make a replacement fit bulb that has higher light output.

Sal, have you already ordered some of teh LED's you referenced in an earlier post on this thread today? If I do not find any at Radio Shack tomorrow, I think I will order some to try.

Anyone have an old clock they would like to donate or sell cheap for the cause here. I would like to take Sal's work one step further on modification ladder and try placing a second bulb in bottom of clock. I think it would help tremendously by balancing out the light pattern. Sal, you have had this thing apart, what do you think about this idea? You could I have tons of scrap stainless tubing here at the site I could use for the mount, trying to mimic the original top light. Or if we had two clocks, or at least one clock, and an extra back. Ah, I am getting too fancy for this, no one will see it right?

I found by putting in relays in the light system and redirecting some of the power through them instead of all of it through the turn signal/stalk switch that my instrument lights improved by about 30%. I also replaced all the bulbs with new ones. What a difference.

Guys,

There is another incandescent bulb 'family' worthy of trying that is a much easier fit than the 194 & 168 family. They both are only 7.5 mm in diameter, so there is plenty of clearance ... but soldering and heatshrink to insulate the leads will still be required. The GE 882 or 882-X is 4 Watts, and the GE 891 is 8 Watts in the same size envelope.

Here is the GE automotive application catalog with data on p. 32 ... for downloading:

http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/downloads/msb_catalog.pdf

891's
 

I saw some of the 891's last night. I almost picked up a pair to try out, but could not find a power rating on them, and the clerk was being "not very helpful" about my request to open and look, Should have just spent the $3 and got them, but I got ticked and walked out.

Sal, if you are out there, what do you think about the 8 watt bulbs. should only be .75 amp draw per bulb, but that could add up. I can't remember for sure how many of those little dudes are in there. I would guess we would be around 8-9 amps total.

Using a complete set of any of these higher-power incandescent bulbs for the instruments would probably overload the dimmer rheostat in the headlamp switch ... if you attempted to run the OEM factory wiring!

<b>That is why I suggested the use of an add-on PWM controller, which could be easily switched on by an 'icecube' DIN relay -- wired to the light switch dimmer signal. The $22.95 Velleman #8004 is a good choice.

Just so there is no confusion about the current drains for this project, per the GE catalog referenced above, the relevant lamp specs are:

GE 194 0.27 Amp

GE 193 0.33 Amp

GE 168 0.35 Amp

GE 882 0.35 Amp

GE 891 0.65 Amp
</b>

Lots of good ideas here. I think that LEDs are just to complicated of a solution. I have seen better results with just the 194 bulb, but I don't like how tight it fits into the tube of the gauge. I think I'll try to find some of these GE 882 & 891 bulbs. Try the 4W bulbs first then the the 8Watt. We have a total of 7 bulbs for gauge lighting so this is still less than 5amps with the 8watt bulb, the harness can handle this but reostat is questionable. I would just by-pass the reostat since I never dim my dash anyway. If you wish to have a dimmer then use the DC Motor controller mentioned. Also the tubes in the gauges where the bulbs go are just a bit shy of 10mm so the GE882 or 891 will be a great fit since they are under 8mm.

Thanks for the tip on these bulbs. Will try to find some localy.

Ron, I agree with you. If your dash is very dim and the bulbs are very old just buy the standard BA-7S 12V 2W bulbs and change the 7 of them this is very easy and costs less than $10.00 to do. Also, wiring them via a relay will help. But do one step at a time.

With that said, what if it's still not enough for your taste? I ran my dash harness with a HP high end power supply and pumped 14.5V into my dash lighting circuit and I still found the dash dim, acceptable but dim for my taste. This is what started me on this research of trying diffrent bulbs. The results I have seen tell me we need 4Watts or more to really light these gauges up.

Putting 2 bulbs in the clock would help but the face of the gauge is a little diffrent at the top than the bottom. By design the top has more metal on the rim of the face to block the over abundance of light from the bulb near the top. The bottom of the face does not have this light blocker on the rim so if you light the bottom with same type of bulb used at the top the gauge will appear brighter at the bottom. See this pic and look at the area near the word 'Original' notice how the face has more metal at the top:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1163639492.jpg

This is still a good idea and seems simple to try. The downside of course is you need to crack you gauges open. I preffer to find some way to make them brighter but not invade that gauges. I like this GE 882 & 891 idea.

fitment thought
 

Sal et al,

Just a thought here about the 891's...

Being that they are about 2mm smaller diam than the tube, it may be necessary to use a small oring (maybe viton or butyl) to ensure the things do not rattle around at all. As you are aware, the factory bulb is much smaller than the tube, but it is held steady in place by its socket. What do you think?

Re: fitment thought
 

Very good point, figure first we test then we worry about final fit. Also could the bulb fit inside the stock holder that's on the wire harness that currently holds the BA7S bulb?

One other thing - where can I get these GE bulbs?

Re: Re: fitment thought
 

I think I saw them at Advanced Auto, and maybe wally-world.

Just joining in, great thread

As a matter of interest I fitted the headlight relay upgrade and it did make a difference to the brightness of the dash.

Luckily all my bulbs seems to be working fine, so brightness at night isn't an issue

Good luck with your various testing

I just bought a GE 891 bulb (8Watt) don't bother trying this bulb unless you want your gauges to light up an air strip! WOW this bulb is way to bright and hot! These are halogen Bulbs and I think the 882 (4 Watt) is a better try but I could not find one during lunch, will keep looking. The only concern with these bulbs is they appear to get HOT not sure about the 4watt one. Do they make a 2watt halogen?

OK, enough folks have mentioned that adding a relay really seems to help. I will take some pics of my stock dash lights with the Reostat and then direct wired from the battery.

Where did you add the relay? after the reostat? or did you eliminate the reostat? Please explain.

Thanks.

Wagner Lighting Products, a divison of Federal-Mogul, also makes the 891 and 882 bulbs ... and they may be available in auto parts stores that don't carry GE bulbs.

I just ordered 10 of these bulb #B715205 from
www.bulbs.com

It is a 12Volt 5Watt Clear Xenon and produces 45 lumens and last 10000hrs.
The stock BA7S bulb produces 7.2 lumens and last 200hrs.

The bulb is only 6.35mm wide and the tube in the gauge is just under 9.9mm so this will fit no problem.

Xenon bulbs produce little heat, unlike halogens, I think this 5Watt Xenon is a good choice we shall see.

Keep us posted Sal.