Help ID connectors

[echecsqueen]

For 1966 911,
Does anyone know a part number or name of these connectors? They have 8 wires(pins) and there are 3 sets going from under dash into trunk.

Also are these [photo 3] simple wire couplers/connectors or something different.
Thanks

[timmy2]

Queenie, stop. Don’t cut anything...
The bulkhead 8 pin connectors are irreplaceable and are cast in place when the harnesses were made. I re-use them after ultrasonically cleaning and splice them into new harnesses (so does Kroon or anyone else that restores them)
The 3 way female connectors are available at any VW restoration or off-road site.

Photo of the 8 pin bulkhead connectors after being ultrasonically cleaned then spliced, and going into a new harness I’m doing for a ‘68 right now. (Literally at this moment!)

[timmy2]

They usually look like yours do or worse when I start.
Here is a pic of the next one in line for me to build as new.

[echecsqueen]

Thank you Timmy 2! I am lucky that you and others are on this forum and willing to help so often.

I wasn't planning to cut anything just yet, relying on this forum (and you ) for help first. but there are 2 wires broken/cut at their connections, and one of the rubber housing pieces has a chunk missing. It sparked whenever it was jiggled (before I disconnected battery -



The photos show the parts AFTER I cleaned them - they were painted with black sticky paint. I have an ultrasound cleaner...what type of cleaning fluid should i use? Is there anything that doesn't take the trace off of wires?

I also found this piece loose under my fuse box. Photo 2 pink circle - It is metal under all the yuck (have it in cleaner overnight...is this part of the box? do I need to reconnect it?

[timmy2]

Dawn dishwasher soap is mild enough to usually not take the striping paint off. I have a 20 liter heated ultrasonic and it usually takes an hour or more with some manual cleaning as well.

I have used aircraft paint stripper applied carefully with a brush to remove stubborn paint from the rubber connectors.

Solder splice a new wire and heat shrink for the damaged wire.
No idea on the metal piece. Spacer perhaps.

Can’t see missing rubber on connector.

[echecsqueen]

Thank you Dennis. I will clean them in my much much smaller ultrasonic tank (1 quart) and re photo...
As far as the cut stump, solder right into/onto the connector? or just bypass that one pin with a separate solder connection of the grey wire?

Thanks again

[Tony V]

Marilyn,
WECO is still in business. You can buy those connectors new. (amazing)

[timmy2]

The grey wire stub looks like it saw some heat. (Melted insulation)
It runs directly to fuse 6 (coming from the light switch) and is for your license plate lights and trunk lamps after the fuse. Also goes unfused to the fog lamp switch at the fuse terminal. (May be the source of overheating)

As you have no room for a mechanical butt crimp, I would try butt soldering a new wire (mesh the strands by overlapping each other) very carefully as my first option. Then heat shrink over the splice.
Then test it with a meter for continuity with a reading that is the same as touching the meter probes together from end to end.
Bypass it with a new wire and detachable connector only if you have to as it goes through the bulkhead.
You also need to find out what overloaded that circuit. (Dead short somewhere)

[timmy2]

3 way .250 connectors for $2 each here.
1/4" Shrouded T Connector: VW Parts | JBugs.com

[gerakroo]

Good news, we are working on reproductions for these connectors and they will soon be ready and also include the metal part (which is often corroded) The male version is already available, we use these for our pre69 ignition switch harness. (see picture)
After that it will no longer be required to cut and ship us your old connectors if you order a new harness !

[echecsqueen]

[QUOTE=gerakroo;9810177]Good news, we are working on reproductions for these connectors and they will soon be ready and also include the metal part (which is often corroded) The male version is already available, we use these for our pre69 ignition switch harness. (see picture)
After that it will no longer be required to cut and ship us your old connectors if you order a new harness !


How do I order the male connector without a harness? Thanks!!

[echecsqueen]

Tony - you are the vault of info - thanks.

Dennis - found the short...ground wires were terrible...this was the initial view of my ignition switch/grey wire when I started a few months ago....been working on cleaning it all up since.

I had temporarily bypassed the grey on the 8 pin with a fresh wire and now am trying to reroute this wire back thru the 8 pin.



My yellow/white was fried too.

Ran a new one there as well...that was cooked for several feet.

I considered replacing the whole harness originally, (and maybe should have). The time it has taken for me to clean replace and repair these wires has been extensive. BUT I have learned a lot about the car and how it works and how to solder, spice and join.