First Valve Adjustment

[alMcm]

I just did my first valve adjustment and buttoned everything up. ?Then I read about using locktite on the "lockdown" screw. Is this necessary?

[Ken911]

no

[Por_sha911]

I think they were talking about using locktite on the screws that hold the 3 mm feeler guage.

[2.7RACER]

Joe,
Where do you use a 3mm feeler gauge?

[alMcm]

Thanks guys.

[johnnyo]

I hear better loose than tight, 3mm is really playing it safe? It has infact been said in the past that locktite is advisable on the little screws that holt the feeler blade to the tool, would hate to see one of the little screws fall into the rockers, do not introduce locktite to the lockdown nut....

[Por_sha911]

Originally posted by 2.7RACER
Joe,
Where do you use a 3mm feeler gauge?

You know Doug, that is a good question. I must have been having a senior moment. I was refering to the .004 feeler used to adjust the valves. Duh. Good catch.

[2.7RACER]

Joe,
Been there, done that. Only problem is the senior moments seem to come more often.
Have you thought about setting your valves using the "Backside Method"?
You don't need that funky tool holding the .004" shim.
Just use a .003" and a .0025" ordinary feeler at the backside. That is where the rocker contacts the cam.
When set properly the .003" will not slide in, the .0025" will slip in between the cam and rocker.
One advantage is to check each valve with the .003" to see if the valve is loose, before making any adjustment. If it doesn't slip in the valve is not too loose. Then check with the .0025" if it does slip in it is not too tight. You can then move on to the next valve.
I have taken the .003" and the .0025" out of the set and just use a small plastic wire tie to hold them together.
Much easier than trying to fit the .004" into the swivel foot/valve gap.
This all works because of the rocker arm ratio is 1.4 to 1. So when the gap is .004" at the swivel foot it is .002857". This is between .003" and .0025".
As a matter of fact it is exactly .07mm. Why? Just divide .1mm by 1.4 and you get .07mm. Simple.
I don't worry about that "tool" falling apart and leaving little screws inside my motor.
The whole thing is so much simpler for this old man, that needs every break I can get when crawling around my Porsches.
Keeps me younger.

[imcarthur]

Doug

I attempted your method on my 3.2 & gave up. The exhaust side was visible, sort of, but I had to bend the feeler & insert down? It just seemed too ackward. And the intake side, I couldn't even see the lob to insert the feeler. I read all the threads again & looked at the pictures & gave up - back to the 'old' way. Of course, I have a loose one, so I'll be at it again over the weekend. Any hints on what I'm doing wrong? The engine is in the car of course.

Ian

[Ken911]

first couple of times i had a loose one or two, tried the backside method only could get to a few of them that way but it did give me a feel for doing them the regular way, you pretty much have to tighten them to just short of what you think will tear the feeler guage. then i reach in and give them a wiggle, you will be able to feel the difference.

[2.7RACER]

Ian,
I remove the Catalytic converter to gain access to the left side. What is it, nine bolts.
I also jack up left side first, do that side, put the Cat back on, then do the right side.
I do the valves where the rocker is riding on the back of the lobe, then rotate the motor until the remaining valves are on the back.
Jacking up the side and propping with a couple stands. I lose maybe a half cup of oil.
I remove the tire as well. I have an air compressor and a great air wrench. Tires come off quick. Use the 3/8 air ratchet to remove the valve covers. When done I carefully run the valve cover nuts on with the air ratchet then finish by hand.
I use the thick silicone reusable gaskets and tighten the new elastic stop nuts until the gasket just begins to bulge. No leaks so far. I like these gaskets.
Maybe if I was doing this everyday for a living I might have it worked out to not remove the Cat. I think removal and re-installation is maybe 1/2 hour. I use the high temp gasket seal. Can usually reuse the Cat gaskets at least once. I replace the Cat nuts and bolts as necessary. I keep a little nut and bolt kit just so I won't be tempted to reuse some old nasty bolt.
The key with my method is to check each rocker gap for over and under, then adjust only those that need adjustment.
At the swivel foot it is difficult to insert the .004" shim with out loosening up every screw.
Getting the proper feel is a art as well. My system doesn't require any "feel".
Bottom line do what works for you.

[alMcm]

Doug,
I read your method after I put the covers back on. I am going to try it that way on the next adjustment.

Right now I'm doing the front and back window seals, tune up and tranny fluid. Maybe next week I'll get a chance to start her up and see how she runs.

(this car has been sitting for well over a year)

[livi]

I will second what Ian said. I was really hesitating before my first valve adjust. Plaguing the guys here with constant questions and reading every damn past thread on the subject. Including the new cam lobe/rocker method by 2.7Racer. Decided I would go for that technique.

I was probably doing something wrong, but as Ian say, it felt more awkward and even harder to see and reach than the traditional method. I am sure its a much more accurate method, but for may small hands, fingers and brain the factory method came more natural.

I will try it again though, next time.

[2.7RACER]

Gentlemen,
This is a picture of the drivers side of my '85 Carrera after removing the catalytic converter.
Notice the .0025" feeler, the GO gauge is slipped in between the exhaust rocker and cam for cylinder #2.
A straight shot from above. No bending.
Also notice just to the left of the feeler is is the cam lobe for the intake cylinder #2. Again a straight shot from below. No bending, simple easy access.
Just to the right is #1 and to the left is #3.
Where is the difficulty?
Why would you need to bend the Feeler?
It's a straight shot into the rocker/cam gap.
What am I missing from your description?

[imcarthur]

I see what you're doing now. You're going in through the intake to check the exhaust & vice versa. I notice that you don't have the tin work (visible at top in this pic of exhaust valves - driver's side) that separates the two that is on mine. I would have to work blind.



Ian

[2.7RACER]

Ian,
The sheet metal is held on with 6 or 7 bolts. Takes ten minutes or less to remove with my 1/4" drive & 10mm socket. Gives me an excuse to clean both sides up. If real nasty even paint them.

[imcarthur]

I knew you were going to say that. Thanks for the descriptions, Doug. I just might dismantle it & try your method again tomorrow since the normal way is such a pain.

Ian