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What's the trick to aligning the engine lid latch?
Put a new cable in. Didn't want it so loose I wouldn't be able to unlatch it, but I can't get the latch to close and hold the lid down.
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John Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance. |
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08-04-2006, 12:43 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Oregun
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search will find some info here, but also see if you can fidn the Pano article called Secrets of Lids and Latches - reprinted in an Up Fixin'
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"A man with his priorities so far out of whack doesn't deserve such a fine automobile." - Ferris Bueller's Day Off |
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08-04-2006, 01:09 PM
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I have 25 years of Panos. Any idea when it was from. I already did a search. Most were about getting it open— not closing it.
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John Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance. |
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08-04-2006, 01:44 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: southern California
Posts: 26,964
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Put masking tape across the hole and push the plunger through the tape, repeat as necessary.
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Hugh |
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08-04-2006, 02:09 PM
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no idea when but it's pretty old - see if there is an index anywhere on the 'net?
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"A man with his priorities so far out of whack doesn't deserve such a fine automobile." - Ferris Bueller's Day Off |
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08-04-2006, 02:48 PM
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One precautionary step would be to remove the decklid grill so that you'd have a chance of opening the lid should it become stuck. Of course, that assumes that you don't have an air conditioning condenser in place.
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08-04-2006, 02:53 PM
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I did find an old post which explained what I needed. Alligning was not what I needed. When I installed the new cable, I didn't have it so the catch was sticking out in the lower hole. After adjusting that, I was pretty sure it would work, but just in case I did what JP911 suggested. This was also suggested in the thread where I found my answer. Now I'm tempted to just remove the rear condensor altogether. I'm afraid to though, as I don't know if there's any R12 left in the system.
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John Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance. |
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08-04-2006, 03:11 PM
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Here's the article:
From Up-Fixin VI  I've been wondering too, since both my front & back lids are slightly out of whack, but I've been afraid to screw with them. What was that other post? Ian
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'87 Carrera Cab ----- “Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” A. Einstein ----- |
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08-04-2006, 03:52 PM
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John Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance. |
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08-04-2006, 04:10 PM
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1981 Porsche 911SC
Blue Meanie
Hers
1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet 3.2
