More front camber tricks?
 

I'm working on the front end of the 912-6 while I have the shocks out this week, trying to get more camber.

Anyone have any good tricks to get more camber, that don't involve $350 for ball joints or $450 for new camber plates?

I've pulled the stock plates and dug out all the black sealant. I was wondering what would be the affects of grinding off the wall of the camber plate, looks like I could gain another 1/8" at the top where it contacts the side of the housing. Maybe I could also massage the panel in that area to allow the plate to move inward a hair more.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

The idea of grinding the edge of the plate seems like a good one. Are you sure there is more adjustment room?

I wonder if smaller diameter bolts would buy you anything?

"The idea of grinding the edge of the plate seems like a good one."

... and often done. However, there's a physical limit of the material you can remove before the strut bumps up against the inner fender. Make it clean and don't forget to seal the bare metal.

Sherwood

instead of a grinder we used a band saw....

don't forget to remove the top strut watershield with that.

-2.8 degrees on ours with the above mods and a little bit of attention to the bolt holes.

brant

Not sure what you mean by top strut watershield?

Thanks,

Jeff

The water shield is the can that goes on top of the strut.

Maybe I can find a rubber bellows to seal it up, keep crap off the strut shaft?

^^^ Oh, the dust cover. Yeah, I would definitely want to put something there in its place.

This was easy to find, and matches the bilsteins....

http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../exp-12120.jpg

jhelgesen,

Where did you get those? Txs

Summit racing - search under shock boots, $6 a pair.

www.summitracing.com

Brant, any issues with tires rubbing the inner fender wall at -2.8?

I haven't had any issues.
I'm running 22front torsion bars and low profile kumhos...
so it could be different on a street car set up.

I run 225's so I do get tire rub at full lock, but not due to camber.

Last night we re-did the alignment and the new figure actually came out to -3 degrees now.

brant

5 minutes with a band saw....

Before:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155777149.jpg

After:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155777167.jpg

Now I just have to open the holes in the chassis a bit to allow the strut mount to move inward more. Can't wait to get my shocks back now.....

thats exactly how mine looked...
now get rid of that rubber and put some metal tops in there!

brant
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155783822.jpg

Thanks Brant....give me some time on the metal mounts, my racing budget only goes so far.....hehehehe

Brant,

Are there any drawback from not running the dust covers?

I am plaaning on doing this mod tomorrow.

Thanks

Brant,

Are there any drawback from not running the calipers? Unsprung weight? :)

Sherwood

i am doing this work rigth now and I need some advice.

Do I have to grind also the large hole on the chasis, where the strut support goes... or just the holes for the adjusting screws?

I already grinded the holes for the adjusting screws but it seems that the space gain is only marginal, since the camber plate will touch the chasis on the midle large hole.

I assume I could gain additional negative camber by grinding the large hole, but I am afraid of weaking the support for the strut.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks