1983 911sc oil change

[AZNPLUMBER]

Hey Guys,

I have a 1983 911sc. I would like to know what is the proper procedure to change the oil myself and what oil should I be using.

Thanx!

[Won]

1) Warm up the oil
2) Drain both the tank and the crank case sump
3) Change the filter
4) Fill up with new oil (many use 20W-50, as far as the brands go, there are a number of threads discussing just that). One time my 83 took 9 quarts before oil level was above "low" on dipstick at 90C (195F). Last time I put 8 quarts and it was overfilled by about 2 quarts. Someone should chime in with an exact number. Either way, drive around nice and easy until it warms up to operating temperature, check oil level and add more as needed.

Don't forget to get a pan or whatever large enough to hold all the oil. I use two Ikea garbage bins.

[Oh Haha]

First step is to get a copy of 101 Projects for your 911. This book is a must have for your garage.

Oh yeah, it helps support this forum, too.

[Wil Ferch]

There are number of further nuances to take note of....

NEVER drain oil into a large-enough pan ( size is itself a problem to get right) that has a cover on it with a big hole in the middle. It'll oveflow....the topside of the catch-can needs to be VERY open..

Measure the amount of oil that comes out.....put it into a series of clear plastic milk jugs. That way....look what came out....put nearly the same amount back in...no risk of overfilling....

For oil-cooler cars ( factory front oil cooler)...total system capacity is about 13 qts.....refill capacity is about 9-10 qts...3 qts stays behind. If the car is warm....about 6-7 qts comes from the tank and 2-3 qts from the engine. If the car is cold...just the reverse.....

Lots more in the archives as a search would indicate.....

- Wil

[astark]

AZNPLUMBER--

All of the above advise is good (especially getting 101 projects from our host!). Allow me to add some personal hints--

Buy heavy duty rubber gloves. I just changed my oil and the oil is HOT!

I crack the oil drain on the sump and allow the oil to trickle out. This prevents a torrent of hot oil going everywhere. It takes more time, but provides better control. I open the drain under the engine as there is not as much oil and my catch pan can handle the amount.

ALWAYS have an oil spill clean-up kit available for those times when old oil finds it's way to your garage floor. I use a 10 pound bag of cat litter. Had to clean up about a quart of oil last time (forgot to crack the drain and just "let her rip") and the litter did the trick without a problem.

Make sure you have the correct filter and washers (available from our host.

Good luck,
Alan

[sammyg2]

I have always questioned the "hot" method.
I do not like burning my fingers. I sometimes adjust valves during an oil change, so I do not heat up the engine before changing oil. IMO it is not worth heating the engine first. Everyone knows the oil gushes out at a high rate so lubricity is not a factor.
Thoughts? Anyone explain what benefit it might have?

BTW in my garage it's usually around 80 degrees when I change oil, so no sub-zero work here.

[toddu]

All very good points. You'll be amazed at just how much oil this things hold. I just changed the oil this past weekend, and used an oil pan that says it has a 15 qt capacity... well, it's full to the brim. I would suggest buying 2 pans. The plugs aren't close enough to cover both, and I like to let my oil really drain, to make sure as much of the old stuff is out as possible.

Also, don't forget drain plug "washers", they are a must.

I myself ran into a strange issue. I could not for the life of me get the plug off of the tank. I drained the engine case, and went back to the tank to figure out what I was going to do. I found the plug to be finger tight at that point???? Anyway, just thought I'd throw that in.

It's very, very easy. Just be prepared to get dirty

[defcon65]

I found a five-gallon bucket to be the best drain pan to catch the gusher of oil that comes out of that tank. You'll have to jack up the rear to fit it under. A poly tarp or large piece of cardboard will also help catch the drips and spills that likely will happen. Careful - when properly warmed up that oil will be almost 200 degrees! I like to wear nitrile gloves under cotton work gloves to keep my hands clean and provide some protection from burns. And don't forget to have the correct Mahle filter and aluminum washers for the drain plug. To get the level correct, I put in nine quarts and start it up until the temperature needle starts to move up, then add oil to bring it to the middle of the marks on the dipstick. Try to drain as much of the oil out as possible before refilling; I usually do the tank first, then the engine, then drop the car back down and let it dribble while I clean up and have some lunch. A half hour later, I put the plugs back in and dump in the oil. It's an art as much as a science - when you can do it without overfilling or spilling oil, you've mastered it.

[Wil Ferch]

I like using the Fumoto drain valves....do a search....also allows a "smidge" to be easily removed if you slightly over-filled.

- Wil

[p911sc]

I have to agree with the hot part and having heavy duty gloves available. I also like astark's trickle method. When I changed oil after a recent rebuild, the stuff came shooting out.

The 9-10 quarts was a helpful guide.
Rick