Pedal Retaining Pin Tool? (Or What Did You Use To Get It Out?)

Ok next week I am going to be totally rebuilding my pedal assembly (1969 912). I am switching to Weltmeister bronze bushings, installing new pedal pads and greasing everything up.

I noticed that AUTOMOTION sales a Pedal retaining pin tool (pg. #181, kind of like a punch) that can be used to properly install or remove the retaining pin. I loved the idea of this so I called them up to order one only to find out that they have been on back order a few weeks and they didn't know when they where going to get any in.

I really don't want to scare up or distort my pedal assembly in any way. So does anyone know any other places that sell this tool?

If not then how did you go about getting your retaining pin in/out?

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by 69-912 (edited 04-10-2000).]

Look at the Pelican tech refernce section, I think there is an article.

Basically any punch the right size will work. However, even if the punch is the perfect size the job can still be a bear. I've done one 911 two 930's and three 914's only one came apart easy. The others were both painful (I have scars!!!) and time consuming.

1. Don't even think about doing it without a big bench vise.
2. Soak it good with PB Blaster (WD-40 is as good as spit). Then if it still won't come out, take the whole mess outside (the PB Blaster and plastic make the most pleasent fumes) and heat it up with a torch as you pound it out.
3. Continune with the heat or take the assembly to a shop with a press to get the clutch pedal off. After that it's cake.

Oh man I guess I will either take this thing to a shop to get it pressed out or go buy a bench vise sounds like a really fun job, hehe.

I seen some of that PB Blaster at the auto parts store a few days ago and it looked interesting. Is it really that much better than WD-40?

Thanks

check out the periodical 911 & Porsche World (feb 2000) pg 66 as they rebuild pedal cluster on a '68 912. "In the end, it took my helpful local garageman, an oxy-acetylene cutting torch and a 3 1/2 ton press before shaft and pedal would even think about parting company." good luck.

Take it to a shop! Seriously, unless you've got a VERY well equipped home garage, the strength of Hercules, or the patience of Job, you'll be very glad you did-that little pin was the ONLY part on my '66 912 restoration (RUSTY!) that I couldn't budge with Liquid Wrench, WD-40, a torch, a big vise and a REALLY big hammer--and I'm stubborn. My scars have (almost) healed from that adventure.....

I've done a couple of these and I'd try to determine which way the pin was driven in and drive it out in the reverse. After I got the pin out, I loosened the pedal arm on the shaft by driving it towards the on direction which loosened it much easier. I noted in both cases that the shaft had mushroomed some and I filed the mushroomed metal away and it came off much easier. Additionally I use oil of wintergreen which we used to use on machinery in the Navy and it works really good, is cheap and smells nice to boot. Good luck.

"Oil of wintergreen"? Where can you buy that stuff at? Is it any cheaper or does it work any better than WD-40? (I always kinda liked the smell of WD-40 in the morning...

the hell with the tool. I just finished putting mine back together 2 hours ago.(77 assembly)
You will need a big bench vise, a hammer and a drill. While it was in the vise I very carefully drilled it out increasing the bit sizes until the pin was very very thin (and the next bit would have been the size of the pin). I repositioned it in the vise held in by the little clutch arm (cable side in the vise).
The unit will now be standing vertical in the vise. At this point, grab the clutch pedal arm (the part that your foot touches)
and turn it in the direction opposite of the way that your foot would push it. what 's left of the pin will easilly sheer (but only if you drilled it enough). Now work it back and forth (while pulling it up) and it should pop off. You could punch what is left of the pin out instead (if sheering it puts you off).
After getting it back together the pin will be be near impossible to get in.
This worked for me just swell but it might be a tad more challenging for you due to the older culster clutch arm not having the extra return spring extension .
1) Mount the assem. in the vise so you can get a near vertical pin hole position. I dropped the part of the clutch arm that holds the return spring in the vise.
2)Use a 1/4 extension and place the female side over the pin (so it will not spread the pin) and give it a couple of light tapps to get just get it going.....now stop!
3)Use some aluminum/bass bar stock as a punch to finish driving it home so you don't damage the end that you are hitting. If this seems too involved go to step #4
4) Have someone else do it for you.

Good luck!

steve

Ok I just finished getting the entire pedal cluster out today. Now it's time to get started ont aking the cluster apart. So it's time to get the pin out

Sounds like it will be a real pain in the butt to get that thing out so I'll probably just take it to a machine shop and have them push it out with a hydraulliac press. Then I guess I'll probably have to have them push it back in as well.

Also after I get the assembly apart I was wondering if it's OK for me to use some paint stripper on it and get it to bare emtal then repaint it?

Thanks

last week I took my cluster to get it sand blasted before I repainted it. But they metalized it ( a sprayed on hot aluminum coating to stop rust) after they sand blasted it by accident.
I was a bit annoyed at first but after some black paint it turned out okay. If you don't really care if it is original, metalize it (about $20.00 extra) after you strip it.

steve