Please help with brake line removal

[der Mond]

I got the left front caliper off OK, but when attempting removal of the hard steel lines from the rubber brake line to replace the rubber one, the nut will come loose from the rubber line fitting and will rotate free from its own steel line about 15-20 degrees rotation, then binds on the steel line, both at the strut end and up in the wheel well. I twisted the short lower line end somewhat, but it seems OK. I used a lot of PB Blaster and jimmied the nuts back and forth many times, but they don’t seem to loosen further. I have searched many posts on brake line removal and have heard of using everything from a Dremel tool (wouldn’t that destroy the hard line?) to Tabasco sauce. If I could just bend the short lower line until straight enough, I could unscrew it as is. If I did that and then bent it back after reinstallation, would that destroy it? If the hard line nuts didn’t have to come off first before removing the spring clips, I suppose I could just free the lines from the strut attachment point in order to give the lower line enough room away from the hub to rotate the whole line, cut the rubber lines and screw the new one in. But that doesn’t seem possible. Why does the line come loose from the caliper just fine but the other nuts don’t? How do professional mechanics replace these lines without destroying what I’m told are practically irreplaceable hard lines? Might a propane torch help? If there are any success stories out there, I could sure use one.

[davidppp]

Hello, there.

I have been there many times, know what its like..

The solution is simple but verry important..junk the hard line, buy the tool, and make a new one..every time..

The cost of all the hard line and flexies is totally trivial compared to the cost of brake failure..do not even thnk about using pblaster etc near barkes..

Kind regards
David

[sfoster13]

Are you using a flare nut wrench on the hard line and a regular wrench on the soft line?

[Todd Simpson]

I'll second David's suggestion...throw it all away and start over. The lines are not irreplaceable at all.

Year ago I bought replacement hard lines from the dealer. I can't remember the price but it wasn't bad. Now I just get straight lines from the auto parts store and bend them to fit. Bring an old line to match the threads and flare type...Japanese, American, are all different.

It is SO nice a few years down the road to work on the brakes with newer lines.

[der Mond]

Thanks for the help, guys. I'm starting from scratch here with brake line knowledge, so:

"buy the tool, and make a new one..every time.."
David, would you be willing to explain which tool and what the procedure is?

"...get straight lines from the auto parts store and bend them to fit. Bring an old line to match the threads and flare type..."
Tod, does this mean that the auto parts store will cut a line to fit and flare the ends for me and put the right size/thread nuts on it, so all I have to do is bend it? So does that mean all I need is the bend tool? Please explain.

Thanks again!!!!

[Todd Simpson]

The auto parts store will carry something like 8", 12", 20" and 24" sizes. (Some stores will have a lot of each, some none...may take a few trips.) They will already be flared and have the nuts in place, ready to go. Just buy a bending tool and you're in business.

[rs6er]

Originally posted by davidppp
do not even thnk about using pblaster etc near barkes..

Kind regards
David

Why? It's the only way I was able to get mine off. It doesn't really get anywhere near the calipers and rotors/

[Jon Sailer]

I have found a little heat seems to help. Bleeding the system afterwards is a must anyway since the line has been opened. Heat is the answer to many of my stuborn parts.

[MattAlpha]

I believe that davidppp is speaking of a flaring wrench/tool. You can use the original steel line if you cut it just past the stuck flare nut. Now you should have an open steel brake line. Side a new flare nut onto to it and use the tool to "flare" the end and then your new conncetion is complete.

Just a note, if you haven't used a flaring wrench before, practice on some spare steel tubing/pipe until you get it right. There are varying qualities (=prices) of flaring tools available, usually with varying levels of difficulty in learning how to use them properly.

Good luck with what you decide to do!
-Matt

[der Mond]

I see that the hard lines are all available from Pelican, actually, and they appear easy enough to get to, except for the left rear, which winds down and around the G50 and then attaches to the "distributor" piece. Have any of you managed to replace that hard line without dropping the rear stabilizer bar and transmission crossmember?

[der Mond]

...and what's the best way to "cut" a brake line cleanly?

[SRL84Car]

I just did this same work on my '84 not 6 hours ago. A few weeks ago I did pads, fluid and SS lines with the exception of the left front SS line. The upper fitting on the short hard line off the caliper started to fail, with a flare nut wrench. I stopped there and ordered a new short hard line from Niello in Sacramento. It only took a couple of days and only cost $10, part # 911 355 605 01. The trip to pick up the part was more than worth it, tremendous eye candy on the lot (new 997 turbo, GT 3, etc. )

I figured for $10 it was worth more than the effort to have a possibly weak line in my brake system. Once I had the new line in hand I PB blasted the fttings and used large channel locks to break loose the bad fitting, then tossed it. The new one went on easily and my job was done and I have confidence in the result.

The line is an "S" about 4" long. Unless you are experienced at fabrication I would not buy the tools to make a new one. The cost benefit on this is an easy call. Just don't screw up the long hard line. Also, I used a cheap flare nut wrench and I would spend a few extra dollars to get a good one before the next time.

[MattAlpha]

Best way to cut a brake line cleanly is to use a small gauge pipe cutter (decreasing it diameter slowly after two or three turns).

[LakeCleElum]

Originally posted by der Mond
...and what's the best way to "cut" a brake line cleanly?

A tubing cutter.....Very cheap in the plumbing dept. of the hardware store....

[der Mond]

Just got what appears to be the solution from Pete Zimmermann on Rennlist - Cut the rubber lines, hold the nut on the hard line steady and twist the rubber line nut off of it. Now why didn't I think of that? Should work since my nuts come loose OK. How does that sound?

[rs6er]

Originally posted by der Mond
Just got what appears to be the solution from Pete Zimmermann on Rennlist - Cut the rubber lines, hold the nut on the hard line steady and twist the rubber line nut off of it. Now why didn't I think of that? Should work since my nuts come loose OK. How does that sound?

Not working for me on my outside LR hose connection.

[der Mond]

John,
Exactly how is it not working? Did the rubber line nut not break loose in the first place? What happened?
Dennis

[rs6er]

I cut the hose on the end of the rubber line on the outboard side. I put a long socket on the nut since I can't get any other kind of wrench on it. Holding the small nut on the outside with a flare wrench, I tried to turn the big nut with the socket wrench. When I turn the socket wrench, I can't prevent it from turning the whole thing, including the outboard line. I have been using PB Blaster for a week. This is the only one I have left.

[sfoster13]

Hey John

I was talking with Cheech at Rennwerke in Elmsford about this the other day. I had him check over all the work I had done on the brake system. He has had lines in stock at his shop. If you can't make it work, I suggest you cut the hard line and go pick up a new one from him. They're cheap.

Sean

[rs6er]

I'm still waiting for him to fax me an estimate for my rebuild.