Push-To-Start Button
 

By sheer dumb luck, the lock on my car necessitates a key to be shaped such that the deepest cuts are vey near to the base of the key. This makes the key weakest there. I am concerned with the torque resistance I feel when starting the car that I will shear off the key at this point which leads to a a situation I would prefer to not to have to deal with.

Rather than replacing the still functional ingnition switch and re-keying the door locks, I though of another solution. Place a momentary contact swtch to act as a starter button to relieve the ignition switch of that responsibility. I still would use the key for switching on power and security but no longer have the worry of rendering the car dead by having a broken key in the lock.

Is there something I am missing in this solution? Ideas and opinions are welcome.

Would be cool if you did a thorough write-up with pics of what you end up doing.

Eric

Eric,
Sorry I took so long with your request. :)

Gary,
Go here.

Mine is an early 911, but the ignition wire is the same color to the starter solenoid.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

just make sure you can unlock your steering wheel...

I did this a couple of weeks ago in a 914 bacause the switch was worn. I ended up splicing a switch between the yellow and black wire in the ignition switch (terminal 30 and 50 in the schematic). So you still need the key to turn to the on position but the switch acts as the start position. All I needed was a rated switch, about 6 inches of wire and two splice thingies.

Cool. No one pointed out something silly I had overlooked.

Sherwood and BK911. Thanks for the info. This is perfect for what I was thinking. When I do it, I'll take pics and post it.

Matt, I will be keeping the standard ignition and lock which will function as before. I am just moving the starting function to a separate switch.

That idea is so rice!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...tartbutton.jpg

* Image taken from S2000 site.







j/k Sounds like a decent idea. Extra points if you can make the installation look OEM, too.

Would it be the worst thing in the world to have an ignition key that's different from the other locks? IMHO, it's no big deal to carry two different keys, and instead of messing around with a starter button I'd simply re-key the ignition switch, or replace it.

My $.02.

So, you put the START button on the left or right of the steering wheel?

:-)

I didn't want to use a start button, but I couldn't find a replacement switch for my car. So less than 1/2 hour later I was on the road again. I hid the switch under the dash so it isn't visible. Is that still rice? :-)

If you're really going to do this, you might take a look at this switch. It's an aircraft starter switch, and has a black rubber boot.

http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pusbutswitch.php

That works too. However, using a separate relay to energize the solenoid bypasses any issues with voltage drop in the switch and the 10' yellow wire.

"Would it be the worst thing in the world to have an ignition key that's different from the other locks? IMHO, it's no big deal to carry two different keys, and instead of messing around with a starter button I'd simply re-key the ignition switch, or replace it."

No, not at all. I have later door locks so I also carrry two different shaped keys for doors and ignition. BTW, some early ignition switches are NLA, thus the requirement to lengthen the life of the existing switch.

According to Pelican's catalog, these are the choices:
prior to '70 (not listed in catalog)
70-89: Complete ign. switch, $512.00
Electrical portion, $57.00

The urgency for a separate switch might be proportional to its availability and cost. BTW, I see no blingness in a remote button unless it's larger than 2" (game show size), or has flashing/sequential lights advertising its location or purpose.

Sherwood

scottb, that is exactly what I would want. You just saved me an hour of searching. Thanks

+1 for Sherwood's schematics. I followed them almost exactly and the switch works perfectly every time. FWIW, I used a MOM rocker switch I got here that fit perfectly in the dash blank next to the DS air vent.

Good luck!

No, no, no...that's not what you want Gary.

You already have the perfect momentary switch staring you in the face when your sitting behind the wheel. ;)

Mark,
Thanks for validating the electrical diagram works.

Sherwood

Sherwood,
In your diagram, you have the power lead to the new starter switch fused with an existing 5A fuse. As this would be key-on powered, which one are you using or tapping into? I have an idea but would like to hear from an expert.
Thanks again for the help.

"In your diagram, you have the power lead to the new starter switch fused with an existing 5A fuse. As this would be key-on powered, which one are you using or tapping into? I have an idea but would like to hear from an expert.
Thanks again for the help."

Expert? (ha)
The main power circuit is from the battery terminal on the solenoid to the Bosch relay, then to the solenoid. The low current path to energize the control circuit of the Bosch relay is from the 5A fuse and the remote switch.

The source voltage to the remote switch and relay is not at the ignition switch but from the main fuse box. Thus, the remote switch can crank the engine indepedently with the ign. switch ON or OFF.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

I suggest having an LCD screen running Windows XP where you use a mouse to click on the START button... actually, that's not as funny when you actually type it out and read it...

I was thinking of this combined with a kill switch on the top of the dash. Wonder if it could be as simple as insert kill switch key, and push button to start. How would that work?

About once a year my key switch locks up. Yesterday I had to pop my hood and grab a can of WD40, spray it into the starter key hole (without the red straw) before I could start the car. Mind you my clients were waiting for me to lead the way to the construction site and had to come over and see what the problem was. I guess it's my way of convincing them I need a new Porsche and they will have to pay me more. Afterall they can't have an architect without decent wheels.;)

Please keep posting on this topic, very interested in a non-$400 solution.

George,
Have you tried spraying a small amount of graphite or molybendium into the ignition so it will turn easier? WD40 really doesn't lubricate, it's a water dispersant that may help "clean" up dirt/dust but I think the others may give you the lube the switch may need...

It's what I had at the time, just an emergency situation.

There was a thread on this not long ago, graphite was dismissed so was WD40. I forget what the most people agreed on.

Is there any benefit to having the power to the relay unswitched and being able to crank the motor with the ignition dead? I am having trouble thinking of a good reason to want to do that. My thought was to take a 5A switched power feed off the fuse block as my low current feed to the switch/relay.

And for the record, I have sourced all the wire, switch, relay, relay holder, fuses etc and spent about $40.

I'd suggest one of these ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157127106.jpg

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37319&doy=1m9&C=SEO&U=strat15

Exactly what I needed, thanks so much Sherwood! :)

Eric

I like their description of the toggle switch cover: "Missile Style Toggle Switch Cover". :) Good name.

Sherwood

:eek: :eek: Oh oh! The ignition switch in my '76 turns easily but "locks up" before actually engaging the starter. This happens EVERY time I start the car. I have to turn the key repeatedly from Off to On, two or three times and.... THEN it will actually go to Start and engage the starter. Starts and runs fine then but I have been wondering if it is just gonna flat refuse to engage the starter one day? Now I read that this is a $500 (WTF?!!) part?!:eek: :eek:

Guess I'd better read this starter button thread a little more closely. What have most guys done about this problem? Buy a used factory switch and hope it lasts a while? If not WD-40 or Graphite then what product and is this just a stop gap measure?...because it sounds like it is.

"Is there any benefit to having the power to the relay unswitched and being able to crank the motor with the ignition dead? I am having trouble thinking of a good reason to want to do that. My thought was to take a 5A switched power feed off the fuse block as my low current feed to the switch/relay.

And for the record, I have sourced all the wire, switch, relay, relay holder, fuses etc and spent about $40."

Gary,
Either way. It's up to you, but with the ignition OFF, you can use the remote switch to crank the engine for compression testing or to rotate the engine to a desired position (e.g. to install the distributor @TDC, to adjust valves, etc.). In addition, you're not beholden to the ignition switch to provide source voltage.

Sherwood

Fair enough.
As before, thank you very much for the help Sherwood. I am grateful.

If you have an aftermarket key, it will be brass, and weaker than an original steel key. Go to the dealer and get a proper steel key made.

Here's a picture of my switch installed. All zing, no bling....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157147300.jpg

Check out this Thread...RE: Pushbutton ignition
 

I had a ignition switch that would just stop working every once in a while, so I replaced the switch and added a starter button to the right of the wheel. There was already a hole through the dash (behind the vinyl), so I got a cheap pushbutton at the local parts house. I just turn the key on and push the button. No real reason for it, but I like the "vintage race" kind of thing, and it takes some strain off the key and switch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157201594.jpg

Just got done installing mine and it is everything advertised. I followed Sherwoods protocol and wiring diagram, built a harness for the relay and punched one hole in the dash where there was a hole already in the metal frame and then ran all the wires. Biggest hassle was running the low voltage wire from the switch through the tunnel but even that was no big deal. Not completely sold on the dust cover on the switch, I will look for another or put in one of the flashy red flip covers but for now it is certainly anti-bling.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157425957.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157425972.jpg

Gary,
Since you located the relay in the engine compartment, it would be simple to connect another push button next to it. Use for compression testing and such. Just a suggestion. Nice job.

With the start button on the right, your LeMans-type starts will suffer slightly. :)

Sherwood

Sherwood,

Thanks.

It was a conscious decision to put it on the right. I have the hazard switch and headlights as well as mirror and sunroof switches on the left. Did not want to inadvertantly punch the starter when attempting to get to one of the other switches. On ther right, there is nothing else nearby and the hole was already there.

A second remote switch would be a cinch, I even have fused power right in front of it. Maybe later.