BAE Turbo Install Part 2
 

Where were we? I put the engine together, put it in, took it out, getting ready to put it back in.

References for those who may be interested:
Fuel Pump Runs Continuously
BAE Install Part 1

The fuel pump issue is what annoys me. I'm going through the wiring, the connectors are getting cleaned, and broken or questionable wires are being replaced on the CIS and engine electrical system. I keep getting continuity through almost everything...the WUR, AAV, Airflow Switch. I finally started unplugging connectors one by one. The damn Thermal Switch is the problem. It was disconnected before, both on vacuum and electrically. The WUR had an open to atmosphere port.

So, for the CIS gurus, what is the normal mode for this switch? I'm guessing it must be NC when cold. Why would this switch basically ground all of my other components? I would think it should only affect the WUR.

BTW, I made a list of the pinouts in the 14 pin connector and the 6 pin connector; another mystery solved.

Pat

Whoo hoo nice to see it solved Sherlock.

Hey Pat, post a pic of the 14 pin connector, i could use it!;)

OK, here's the 14 pin connector. They work better (I assume) without conductive crud bridging the terminals. It's down to about a 9 pin connector, since I cut out some of the useless wiring.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157330834.jpg

Spiffed up a bit waiting to go back in (it's back in since this photo this morning)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157330932.jpg

Water injection cut in switch, and the usual golf tee...no install is complete without it!! (Test port for future)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157331101.jpg

looks sweet

Thanks, Jerry
I saw a post with some photos of yours...that looks pretty good also. How much boost do you run in that 3.2?
Pat

.5 bar, or, 7 psi
is there some info somewhere about that water injection?

I'm sort of the prototype on the water injection. It works really well on supercharged Chevrolets. I'll let you know how it works out and if it's feasible for the flat-6.
Pat

thanks

Im a huge fan of water injection!

Way less crude then dumping a ton of fuel in.


That kit never looked better... good job!

lol. Thanks for the picture but what i meant was the list of the pinouts you said you made. Looks great!

-Jeff

Nick:
Thanks! This water system is pretty slick, with real nice atomization nozzles. I am hoping to get 100% phase change on the water before it gets to the combustion chambers. I did also put in a wideband A/F meter, a boost gauge, boost ontroller, and I have to find something for inlet temperature. I just got the car started, but it only ran for like 7 seconds, cause the fuel pump quit. I guess either it runs all the time or not at all! While it was running, it didn't make any of those I-left-a-12mm-socket- in-here noises.

Jeff:
Needless to say, I'll be doing some electrical troubleshooting in the near future. It mmay help you to do a search, as I believe all of the 14 pin connectors for different MY's have variations.

"real nice atomization nozzles. I am hoping to get 100% phase change on the water before it gets to the combustion chambers"

more specs please! where did you get the nozzles? how much GPH on the system? What kind of pressure are you using? when do you have it triggerd? how do you have it triggerd?

just wait till you see your CHT drop like a rock... you will love it

Lookin' good Pat.

Ed

BAE- Bob's Automotive Engineering? Sheesh. Hadn't seen a BAE since they made them for Z cars back in the 70's.

Tom

Well, I had to jump the fuel pump relay to get fuel. Car sounds pretty good, especially those DC-15 cams. Unwilling to run it up to get any boost, as the vacuum/boost gauge isn't reading. Gotta test the vacuum and boost with another gauge through the golf tee test port.

Oil is definitely not draining back to the case, it's leaking out the compressor in the turbo drain area. I don't have any pitch back to the chain cover. No other oil leaks.

The dash indicator for the directional signals are both on weakly. If I signal for a left turn, the left and right blink alternately. WTF!! I guess I have a few electrical issues...

I take it you solved the problem of gas coming out of the exhaust. What was the solution?

Fuel plunger was gakked up. I pulled the fuel distribtor off, and squirted the plunger and the insides with carb cleaner. Works great again now.

I'm thinking the female side of the 14 pin connector needs cleaning also. May have got a bit of corrosion in it when I washed out the engine compartment a couple of months ago.
Pat

Oil leak fixed. It was the steel block which carries the drain fitting and bolts to the turbo center section; it wasn't flat. I filed it down for a seeming eternity, mada a new gasket, and it stopped leaking.

The wastegate leaks. A small percentage of exhaust escapes, enough to be noisy. The turbo doesn't make any positive pressure, according to my gauge, nor can I get the wasegate to open any farther. This is a problem.

I ran the car at idle and 2K for 10-15 minutes, enought to get the oil thermostats to open. Both the internal and external stats work, which is a 50% improvement over the last time the car ran.

The electrical problems are still there.

The car sounds so much different with those DC-15 cams and the Flowmaster muffler.

" The turbo doesn't make any positive pressure, according to my gauge, nor can I get the wasegate to open any farther. This is a problem."


it wont untill you put some load on it... holding it at 5k wont move enough volume of gas to spin things up.


once its on the street and you move alot more exhaust gas(because you will be at WOT for more then an instant) it will come to life.

if you have an air compressor you can apply pressure to the waste-gate's line to verify that it opens. I had a relatively weak spring in there... maybe 4 PSI. If you still have my setup the waste-gate will dump to the outside and you will know when it opens by the sound it makes.. Any questions you can give me a call. just PM me for my number.

_Nick

Wastegate leak fixed. I can see some positive pressure now, but I need to get it on the street with some load. Clutch adjusted. CV's in. I'm just about ready to put the wheels back on and try it out.

I have air leaks, I suppose. I have to turn the idle screw all the way in to get it to idle at less than 1K RPM. I hope I just knocked a vacuum tube off the back of the TB.

Just took the car for a short ride to the store. First time out of the garage in 3-1/2 months. I took the scenic route.

WOW

Pat

Cool Pat! Im guessing you fixed the fuel pump problem?

-Jeff

glad you're keeping the thread going, I want to find out about the water alcohol thing.

Fuel pump is jumped out to operate. I'll fix it this week.
The water injection still needs to be set up off the pressure switch, a matter of tweaking. Gotta fill the resorvoir with distilled water. The A/F gauge I bought doesn't work; factory says it's defective, which is very disappointing.

So, I was taking it easy, got into third up a moderate hill, and I felt the car start to pull real hard. Looked at the boost gauge, which climbed to 5 PSI. Transition to boost was pretty even and not really noticeable, as I do have the 8.5:1 SC pistons. I really can also feel the difference with those DC-15 cams.

I knew there was a good reason I put myself through all of this. Now, I have to break it in a bit before I take it to Pocono this weekend, which will be the real indicator of how it works.

Pat

HA! see! best $$ you ever spent on the car!

It's all worthwhile in the end.
And then you realize it is the best money you spent

Hold the accolades...
I put a few miles on it tonight. The acceleration is rocket-like compared to my old 161 RWHP engine. The boost was at 7 PSI on the gauge. The difference is unreal.

However, an ugly problem has arisen. The crankcase is puking oil back into the airbox. Warm engine at idle, I can see the oil vapors coming in with the lid off the airbox. Must be doing the majority of puking on boost. It was about 4-5 paper towels worth to sop it up from the airbox after I shut it off. It was leaking out of the corner of the airbox onto the fan shroud atop the #5 cylinder, and quite messy. Crankcase breather is plumbed directly into the airbox. I think it used to go into the top CIS boot. I added the pictured tee to vent the oil tank, but the puking started before I put the tee in. The breather line from the crankcase has the restrictor elbow in it. I guess I'm building some crankcase pressure.

I am open for suggestions for a remedy from the great minds of turbo science. Maybe I need to re-plumb it so that the airbox isn't the low point?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158024483.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158024647.jpg

Dump the crankcase fume into a catch tank instead of the airbox until you have everything sorted out.

I think someone on this board is using a MOBIL 1 oil bottle as a catch tank.

here are my ideas.

put an oil-air seporator in the line if you can. The SC's came with a little elbow that has mesh in it. Put that at the highpoint in the line. Check to make sure that the oil level isnt too high.. Then maybe a catch tank..

Crankcase breather should run back to the oil tank, oil tank breather to the airbox. If your running the crankcase breather to your airbox you will see a lot of oil, not vapor. I suppose if you had a tee in the crankcase breather it and ran the vapor line from the top of the tee and then to a catch can mounted high. The way it looks to me is the tee is acting like a sump holding oil in the lower bend and purging it out it's nearest escape route IE airbox. Put a tee in at the top of the oil tank connection and try running the vent from the upper part of the tee facing up, to the airbox.

Chap
I think you're right on this. I'll build a new fitting today at work with the vent to the airbox at the top of the tank fitting.
Pat

My oil tank in my 914 has to provisions for the hoses, so the crankcase breather goes to one that goes directly into the tank and the other a vent to the air box coming from the oil filler neck.

Exactly. Get rid of the T and you'll be fine with a direct line across.

the BAE support is great on this forum!

Here is a picture of what you want to do. Ignore the red AC hose in the lower part also the duct tape labels on the fuel injector lines....
The upper vinyl/rubber hose is the oil tank breather hose. Direct connect from the large nipple at the top of the filler spout over to the air box side. This has been relocated from the back of the former CIS airboot.
The lower cloth covered dark hose is the crank case breather/ventilation hose. It connects direct to the lower connector on the oil tank.
Like this, you'll be fine until you over fill with oil.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158085796.jpg

tsuter:
It has just occurred to me that I have a lower tank connection. It's probably still taped over from when I painted the tank! What a dope I can be! I'd better look when I get home.

My injector lines have the exact same duct tape numbers.

Look about three inches lower and hidden to the back more....at the base of the filler spout.

I didn't want to ask...

But I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that uses duct tape to label the injector fuel lines...one of the many uses of duct tape.

One of the burdens of being a Mensa member.