911 hasn't run in years, where to start?

'70 911t, hasn't been run in years, ok at shutdown,probably bad gas through out. Where to begin, and how? any books cover ground up
rebirth in detail? please help!!!! want to
get it running so as to assess overall mech.
condition and plan for project. Need all the help I can get!!!

Okay - first, I've never done this, but some common-sense advice comes to mind. Bascially you're going to have check every major system and assume that nothing works. So here's a brief first attmept at a task list:

1) You're going to need to charge up or replace the batteries.

2) Check all the terminals and earth connections you can for rust/corrosion.

3) While the charger is charging - put a wrench on the end of the crank and turn the engine over a few times. If the engine doesn't turn you're in trouble - rebuild time!

3) Drain/syphon whatever fuel is left in the gas tank and replace with "fresh" gas.

4) Wire-brush and then use emery paper to get the rust off the brake discs (rotors). Change the brake fluid. Check as best you can the condition of the callipers and brake lines.

5) Check the action of the clutch and the brakes. If the clutch pedal won't go down the chances are the clutch is rusted on! Argh! nasty big job to get that off! Its hard to check the brakes without driving the car - at least you should be able to check that they work at all.

6) Put the batteries in - you can now start checking the ignition and fuel systems.

7) Assuming all the above are okay, try and start the car. Your only destination is straight to the nearest oil and lube center for an immediate oil change.

8) REMEMBER! Cars are generally off the road for years because they have a major problem that caused them to be layed up in the first place. You're going to have to fix this problem before the car will run again.

9) The above list is a minimum - you'll need to do much much more - for instance, ensure that no debris is on the cylinders, causing them to over-heat. There may well be problems with the fuel lines, and the various control cables (clutch, gas, heater, emegency brake).

10) Take your time, don't despair (Porsches are VERY well made and everything you need to replace is available).

Good luck!

- roGER

I have a 1972 targa that sat for 8 years outside before I got it to start. This is what I did to get it going;
I am assuming that the engine turns and hopefully there isnt anything major wrong with it.
1) squirt marval mystery oil or equivelant into the cylynders to soften and lubricate ring and cylinder walls. not too much (1-2 squirts)
2) see condition of oil and verify that there isnt any water in it. replace oil
3) clean all gas related parts and replace all hoses if brittle. This will take a while and will be expensive than the other steps but your going to have to do it sooner or later. If you fix it now you wont be fighting it later.
4) CHECK ALL ELECTRICAL ???
spark plug firing order,wires,etc
5) do your basic tune up
wires ,plugs, timing, valve adjustment,etc
6) by this time you have worked in the oil in the cylinders from all the turning you did on the engine.
It will smoke like hell because of the mervel but it will soon burn off and you will see, with some adjusting how the motor runs.
good luck
After mine smoked like hell and went away,I then had to adjust the carbs. It ran great but the motor had bad valve guides (smoked bad under deceleration ). GOOD LUCK

I agree with the suggestions in the previous posts. Here are a couple additional things recommended to me when I ressurected my 69E.

After draining the fuel, use a large bottle of Techron with about five gallons of fresh fuel.

Turn the engine over with the coil disconnected, just using the starter. Turn the engine over a few seconds at a time, to avoid burning up the starter, until your batteries are low. Recharge them and do it some more. You are also trying to check for oil pressure. The gauge probably won't indicate pressure at such low rpm. If you put in a new oil filter, you can see if oil has reached there as this is the last place for the oil before dropping back into the tank.

If all goes well it will fire up, sputter, cough and smoke that can be seen from blocks away. It should get better from there.

Good Luck
Ron

I would turn the engine over the first
time with all the plugs removed. This
would allow the engine to spin more freely for the first time. I would also crank it for a while like this to allow the oil to circulate through the pump and lubricate the other internal componenets.

Good Luck
Joe A

Almost all of the above suggestions are good, with a couple of notable exceptions:

There is no hope of 10-year old batteries being good for anything but recycling! My suggestion is to get a single 'Group 41' battery to replace the pair, it is (I belive) the optional 88 Ah battery since '74, and is a low profile that will fit into the 'well' with some sticking out (much longer than original 36 Ah) ... a longer ground cable will be needed. The positive cable over to the 'second' battery should be disconnected at the 'first' battery poitive connector, if only one battery is to be used!

A couple of meters (6 feet) of bulk 8 mm OEM fuel hose is all you should need, DO NOT USE generic American hose from a local parts store! Use ONLY German OEM fuel hose from a Porsche, VW, or Mercedes dealer.

The brakes need the most serious attention ... and I hope you aren't facing major bucks to replace ruined, rusted-out components! I hope the car is presently where you can put it up on jack stands, because the brake system needs to be disassembled before attempting to drive ANYWHERE! The master cylinder, and all four calipers need to be removed, disassenbled, and cleaned to assess damage and whether usable/rebuildable or junk! The lines ALL need to be blown out with compressed air, flushed with Isopropyl alcohol, and blown out again until dry! If, per chance, fresh brake fluid was in the system 10 years ago, and all five components disassmble easily and no major rust damage is found, they can be reassenbled with the same parts. If the caliper pistons are rusty, but cleanable, without any pitting on the 'working' surface of the pistons, and the inner surface of the caliper rectangular seals is scuffed, then rebuild kits are required. Pitted pistons must be replaced if the pitting will rub the rectangular seal! Pitting of caliper walls is not important, unless the pitting is so VAST that the piston can 'wobble around' in the bore! Major rust pitting usually dictates a replacement by a rebuilt or new caliper. Note: any Raybestos dealer has listings for Porsche calipers, master cylinders, and rebuild kits, and the Raybestos box will contain OEM Ate parts, complete with Ate document sheets! Good luck!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 05-09-2000).]

I really appreciate all the suggestions I'm getting for the old 911. What's the safe approach to putting it on jack stands? any location that will be most appropriate for not damaging the pan? (obvious: the jack points)? As a newbie to the (arcane) science
of porsche, I'm open to all help even if it seems painfully simple. I've long since
learned that there's much to be gained from the experience of others.

At the rear, just inboard of the castings for the swing-arms on the torsion bar tubes. In front, just to the rear of the skid at the front mount/anchor for the front torsion bars. Be sure to use canvas/rubber/cardboard on the jack stands to protect the finish/undercoating.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa