1989 911 front end rebuild ???s

[texanpilot]

I am in the process of installing a completely overhauled front suspension. I have a few questions about the re-assembly.

1.) I have a slight side to side movement on my front hubs. I removed the old races and had a shop press in the new races. New bearings and rear seals were also installed. How thick is the front washer that seats underneath the hub lock nut?

2.) The tierod will not drop into the idler arm. Are the tierods supposed to be pressed in? I did remove all paint from the hole and the seating area is clean shiny metal.

3.) In another tech article I saw a schematic that details how to cut down the strut rubber bumper when replacing Boge strut cartridges with Bilsteins. I did as instructed and when I installed the upper strut cover it seems to be very loose and rattles when bumped. Is trhis normal?

4.) On my first attempt to install the ball joint pin it broke off. I was able to drive it out again but the stud portion snapped off when I attempted to tighten the lock nut. Parts were purchased through our gracious hosts.

If any one can point me to a detailed write up of the O/H procedure or send me some photos I would appreciate it. The shop manuals only show smallish schematics that lack detail. Thanks in adavance for your help.

[SP2]

I did this project. Here are my comments.

1.) I have a slight side to side movement on my front hubs. I removed the old races and had a shop press in the new races. New bearings and rear seals were also installed. How thick is the front washer that seats underneath the hub lock nut?

It is pretty thick and it is a special washer. It is not round. The hub lock nut is supposed to be loose enough so that this washer can be movable slightly if you stick a small screw driver in there and push the washer side to side. If you had a little play on the hubs before, the new races and bearings should take care of that. There should be no play at all if you install the hub properly.

2.) The tierod will not drop into the idler arm. Are the tierods supposed to be pressed in? I did remove all paint from the hole and the seating area is clean shiny metal.

You don't press the tie rods into the idler arm. But you do need to somewhat line up the tie rod's bolt with the hole in the idler arm. Torque it to spec and there should be a cotter pin to put in the nut. It is a special nut that comes with the tie rod. If this is a "new" suspension, I hope you are using the Lemforder turbo tie rods.

4.) On my first attempt to install the ball joint pin it broke off. I was able to drive it out again but the stud portion snapped off when I attempted to tighten the lock nut. Parts were purchased through our gracious hosts.

This is a very important "pin". I think it is called a wedge bolt. And it is a one time use only type of item. Are you using a torque wrench to torque it to spec? That is very important. It shouldn't break if you do it to spec. Buy a new bolt and nut and try again.

There are some photos and a write up I did on the Rennlist site under "SeattlePorsche". I had never worked on a car before and got it done and I am sure you can too. Just don't take shortcuts and torque everything to spec. If that wedge bolt had broken at high speed you could be in a serious accident.

Good luck!